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69 Dodge Charger, DEI 530T & Avital 5303


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dino69 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: July 29, 2015
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: July 29, 2015 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dino69
Hi folks, first post here so I hope I'm not creating headaches already! I have a 69 Charger that came with manual windows. From a donor car I got all the power window goodies: wiring, regulators, motors, and switches (4 gang on driver's door). The only thing I don't have is the circuit breaker and the safety relay but I'm not sure if I need them. I have 2 530T modules and the Avital 5303. When this is all hooked up do I still need additional relays? I have already upgraded the car's wiring with a bigger alternator and 6awg wiring. I'm also running an 8 awg wire into the cab with a 50A maxi fuse. All power wires will either go to that fuse or straight to the battery with a new fuse, whichever is recommended. Should I use one module to operate the front windows and one to operate the rears or do one module per side so they're closer to the motors? I am rebuilding the motors so they will run as best as they can, but it's still old technology and don't know what to expect. I'm also hooking everything up outside of the car to make sure it all works. Any tips and advice welcome, please ask whatever info you need. I added a wiring diagram of the stock power windows. I think I know which are the up and down wires but that'll be easy enough to figure out.
Thanks!
D 69 Dodge Charger, DEI 530T & Avital 5303 -- posted image.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 8:36 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
No problem with the windows, just wire to between switch and motors. The safety relay can be left out, if you do your windows will work constantly no need for ignition.
As for the remote start, good luck there with a non-fuel injection car, you might have to install a solenoid on the throttle linkage to prime it.
dino69 
Member - Posts: 33
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Joined: July 29, 2015
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 8:53 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dino69
Thanks that's great news!
The remote starter was never really a priority and nothing more than a gimmick, it's the alarm and power options that interest me more, but the car does start up amazingly well and has an electric choke. I'll be able to use the remote starter when coming out of the store at least so I can make some heads turn. : )
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 8:56 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Yes the lead question is:- can you start just with the key without pumping the throttle in the winter.
dino69 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: July 29, 2015
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 9:11 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dino69
I doubt it. With my old carb I had to push the throttle once and it would fire right up, with the new carb and electric choke I assume I still have to depress the pedal so no the remote starter won't do much good. I can't drive it in the winter here because of snow and ice, but there are plenty cold days where I do take it out. I seriously doubt it would fire up in near freezing temps after sitting 8 hours. EFI is on the menu, but only after I finish grad school which will be in 2018.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 9:12 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
OK as long as you're aware of the problem.
dino69 
Member - Posts: 33
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Joined: July 29, 2015
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dino69
Yep and I'm okay with it.
Would you suggest I run one 530T module per side or one for the front windows and one for the rear or does it not matter?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 30, 2015 at 11:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Doesn't matter!
dino69 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: July 29, 2015
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 18, 2016 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dino69
Well it took me a while but I'm finally installing these modules!
The car needed a lot more attention so instead of duct taping everything together I pulled the drive train, repaired and repainted the engine bay and I am rebuilding the engine and suspension. The next step on those is painting the components so I need to wait for spring to do so. It's a bit cold right now.
I installed two 530T's; one behind each kick panel. The idea is to use one 530T to operate both windows on each side of the car. It's a 2 door by the way.
I have rebuilt the window motors and the mechanisms, and I have installed new guides and seals everywhere so the windows zip up and down pretty good with the stock switches.
I have yet to install the 5303 alarm and remote starter. I'm also going to install fuel injection but not this year so the remote starter will not be used a whole lot as long as I have a carburetor on there. I do want to wire it in though.
I have a question on wire gauge. I have read somewhere that on these old cars it is recommended to run thicker gauge wiring to the window motors as some people complained that the 530T relays would stop the windows before they rolled all the way up. I know there's a resistor mod but I want to see if I can get this to work smoothly without. I'm using the blue and green wires to interface with the door motor and the blue and green with tracer wires to do the rear quarter window. The former is long enough to run all the way into the door and get to the motors, the others of course don't reach all the way back. The total length from the 530T to the rear window motor is around 6'.
Would it be advisable to cut all four of those wires close to the 530T and solder a thicker gauge wire in place? If so what gauge is recommended? 12? 10?
As for the red fused wires, I guess it's best to run those straight to the battery? I do have a starter relay bolted to the firewall I could run them to. That relay and the battery are connected by a 6 gauge wire and there's another 6 gauge going to the alternator and an 8 gauge wire going into the cab to power up the inside of the car. Come to think of it, I may not have the room to add more wires to that relay.
If I run all the power wires to the battery would it be best to cut the stock wires close to the fuse and solder a thick wire onto it? Those will then go to the battery with another fuse close to the battery itself. If that works, what gauge wire and size fuses should I use?
I will have more questions as I go through this install but for now the wire gauge is what's important so I do this right.
Thanks!
dino69 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: July 29, 2015
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 18, 2016 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dino69
I almost forgot; the thinner gauge wires that run from the 530T to the window switches, do those need to be beefed up at all? Again they are long enough to reach the door switch but not the quarter window switch.
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