69 Dodge Charger, DEI 530T & Avital 5303

The answer is 10 gauge, power and ground directly to the battery. If your newly installed power window motors work smoothly right now everything should be OK.

Thanks for your very quick reply Howie! Do you think it would be overkill to beef up the wires going to the motors? So it would be alright to extend them to the quarters with the same gauge wire? I don't mind spending some more to get thicker wires if it helps.

Ground to the battery. I'm glad you told me that, I was going to take the violet and black wires and cut them short. There's a frame bolt close to the 530T I was going to run them to.

Don't rely on any frame bolts on an older car unless it's less than 1 ohm between that bolt and the battery NEG. I remember a colleague doing that on an 81 Golf Gti and wondering why nothing worked!

Interesting! I'll measure the resistance on a few points, you made me curious now. I used to have a few ground issues in the past so I changed the stock wiring. I run a bigger negative cable from the battery to the engine block and I also replaced the stock ground strap running from the engine block to the firewall with an 8 gauge wire. That solved several small issues. I'll make sure the ground wires run to a spot with no resistance, it shouldn't be an issue to run them to the battery if needed. I should have some room left for a few more wires! I'll stick with the stock gauge wiring to run to the motors and the switches then but I'll get 10 gauge for all the power wires. Sorry for the previous double post, I only hit the reply button once. Thanks Howie!

Very long post! Can you guys look this over and see if I have this right? I am using an Avital 5303 and two 530T units. The functions I would like are pretty basic: arm/disarm with progressive door unlock, trunk unlock by remote and momentary switch under the dash, regular arm/disarm and remote starter operation. On my car, a 1969 Dodge Charger, the climate control system is vacuum operated so I won't need to use any of the climate/defogger connections. I can just leave certain buttons depressed so when the car starts it's all up and running. Besides having the windows roll up when arming the system, I may want a separate button to roll them up without arming the system. The alarm's H1/12 connects to either the 530T's H2/3 or H2/4 I think. DO I use the other for this function? There are a few more Aux options I see but I wouldn't know what to use them for so I'm leaving them unused unless someone has any good ideas for them. I'm open to suggestions! I have read the manuals front to back and looked all over this forum, but my car is not exactly typical so I still have a bunch of questions, some you can see in the wire description itself such as what to do with certain wires. I just want to make sure I have all this mapped out before I begin: 1. If I'm not using a certain wire, can I just tape it off? 2. Do I use the same fuse amps on the power wires close to the battery as those on the wire itself? For example H1/2 has a 15A fuse to protect the module, do I add a 15A fuse on the 10 gauge wire that goes from that wire to the battery or do I need a bigger fuse? 3. My dome light comes on when I open the door and goes off when I shut it. Is there a way to have the dome light go on when I disarm the car and shut off after I start it? Like a modern car? 4. Regarding IGN 1 and IGN2, I have a modern ignition system which required the coil to see 12v in both run and start positions so IGN1 and 2 have been soldered together. I'm assuming I no longer have to connect the wires for IGN2? 5. Without having to find a dealer, can I turn off the chirps when I arm/disarm the system? If I can, will all the other chirps be disabled as well? That may not be a good idea, what's your opinion on this. ➤ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector H1/1     RED / WHITE     (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT : to relay, momentary switch to same input as H1/1? H1/2     RED     (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT             : to + battery, fuse amp?       H1/3     BROWN     (+) SIREN OUTPUT   : to siren red wire        H1/4     EMPTY     NOT USED H1/5     BLACK     (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT : chassis or negative battery terminal H1/6     VIOLET     (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3               : unused? Door switch is ground when door open. H1/7     BLUE     (-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4        : unused? No optional sensor only the one that came with the Avital.    H1/8     GREEN     (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3               : negative wire w/door open H1/9     BLACK/ WHITE     (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT : unused? no dome light supervision. H1/10     WHITE/ BLUE     (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT          : where does this wire go? H1/11     WHITE      (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT        : + parking lights wire H1/12     ORANGE     (-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT       : 530T H2/3 RED / white or H2/4 orange? ➤ Auxiliary harness (H2), 6-pin connector H2/1     LIGHT BLUE     (-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT : relay, passenger unlock actuator H2/2     WHITE/ BLACK     (-) AUX 2 OUTPUT        : unused? H2/3     VIOLET/BLACK     (-) AUX 1 OUTPUT        : unused? H2/4     GREEN / WHITE     (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM      : unused? No factory alarm H2/5     GRAY/BLACK     (-) WAIT-TO-START INPUT           : unused? No diesel H2/6     LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK     (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM     : unused? no factory alarm ➤ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1     LIGHT BLUE     (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK : relay, driver unlock actuator 2     EMPTY     NOT USED 3     GREEN      (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT : relay, both doors lock actuators ➤ Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram H/1     PURPLE     STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE) : starter wire going to starter H/2     GREEN     STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)           : starter wire going to ignition H/3     RED     (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT      : to + battery, fuse amp? H/4     ORANGE     OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT             : vacuum operated climate so unused H/5     PINK     OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT : ignition wire H/6     RED     (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT           : unused? H/7     PINK/WHITE     OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT    : unused? H/8     RED / WHITE     (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT           : unused? ➤ Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector H3/1     BLACK/ WHITE     (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT             : to toggle switch, other switch wire grounded H3/2     VIOLET/WHITE     TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE              : - side of coil H3/3     BROWN      (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE : brake switch + when depressed H3/4     GRAY     (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1               : hood pin switch H3/5     BLUE/WHITE     (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER - Latched Pulsed : unused ➤ Horn, channel 6 (H4), 2-pin connector H4/1     ORANGE / BLACK     (-) AUX 3 OUTPUT : where does this wire go? H4/2     BROWN     (-) 200 mA HORN      : to horn relay through SPDT relay? Thanks for looking?

Alright then let's try something else. I figured out the questions on fuses and such and where all the wires go. But I have a few more questions before I can install everything. I drew up this crude schematic to show how I believe the RS is connected to this old ignition system. The car used to have ignition 1 and 2 but due to installing a modern ignition system those wires have been connected. I still have one power wire coming in from the fuse box and one from the battery fused . As I understand, either ignition 1 or 2 would have power only in crank and the other would have power only in run. Since they are tied together it probably doesn't matter anymore and I should ignore the RS ignition 2 wires. I also don't have an accessory wire going to climate control or anything like that so that leaves only 5 wires to connect. Two 3oA fused power wires that go to the battery (H/3 & H/6), a pink wire going to the joined IGN1 and IGN2 wires (H/5). Lastly the green (H/2) and purple (H/1) wires that g to the cut wire that runs from ignition switch to starter relay. Did I get it right? I also found a few diagrams on how to wire the trunk popper relay and adapted it to this. I think this is how it's supposed to be. Would there be any point in wiring the power for the dash switch to key on power only instead of constant power? I can't think of any but thought I'd ask. I'm not sure what to do with the dome light. If anything I'd like it to light up when I unlock the car and turn off when I start it, but I don't know if it's possible. I may just leave it alone if it's too much trouble. I decided not to use the siren that came with the Avital 5303. I don't like it and I really don't care for the chirps. I just want the parking lights to flash when I arm/disarm. I do want the horn to pulse when the alarm is triggered so can I simply leave the siren unhooked and use the H4/2 horn output? It's a 200mA feed and my horns are already tied to a horn relay (stock). If I add this wire to it will it give me a pulsed output? There's no explanation in the manual about what this does. There's also H4/1 but that's an Aux 3 output and I don't know what it's for.

While I cannot answer all of your questions I can give some insight on the trunk solenoid wiring and the horn. I'm guessing that the trunk switch you show and the trunk solenoid are already in the car and that the trunk switch throws or sends 12 volts to the solenoid to get it to activate. If so, leave that how it is but somewhere on the wire between the trunk switch and the trunk solenoid, you need to splice into that wire and then connect terminal 87 of an aftermarket relay to it. On that same relay you then need to connect terminal 30 and 86 to a fused constant 12 volts and then terminal 85 to the negative trunk output from the alarm or remote start control module/brain. Terminal 87A will not be used at all. IF your existing trunk switch is hooked to a fused constant or ignition 12 volts then you could take and connect terminal 30 and 86 of the relay to it BUT if the existing trunk switch is getting power from an ignition source, then the remote control for the alarm or remote start can only activate the relay when the ignition is on and not when the ignition is not powered up. Some alarms and/or remote starts I've seen do not allow the trunk output to work when the key is in the run position so it might be better to get a fused constant 12 volts for terminals 30 and 85. As far as your other questions I would think you could use the existing horn relay on the car and tie it into the new system providing the polarity is correct and the factory relay draws the same or less than what that output can handle. The only way to know would be to measure what you have. I'm a GM guy but on my 68 Chevy II, the horn relay is triggered by a negative connection in the horn button BUT just looking at the size of my original relay I might think that it could draw more than what an alarm output could handle and instead of taking a chance I would measure things and if it's fine, then I could get by without an added relay. I would just hate to say do it and then find out your factory horn relay draws too much power to where it fries things. Jim1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012

1973 Nova Custom

1974 Spirit of America Nova

1973 Nova Pro-Street

Thanks for the advise Jim! Very good point on the horn relay. It is pretty big so it may be too much for the alarm output. I'll try to figure out how to wire in an spdt relay. The horn on my car is triggered by a negative connection as well. The trunk solenoid and switch came out of another car. Chargers didn't come with them. It's a single wire solenoid so putting power to it makes it go. I will be sure to give the switch constant power so it'll work with the remote when the ignition is off. I'll draw up a new relay schematic for it tomorrow and post it to make sure I did it right.

dino69 wrote: With my old carb I had to push the throttle once and it would fire right up, with the new carb and electric choke I assume I still have to depress the pedal so no the remote starter won't do much good. I can't drive it in the winter here because of snow and ice, but there are plenty cold days where I do take it out. I seriously doubt it would fire up in near freezing temps after sitting 8 hours. EFI is on the menu, but only after I finish grad school which will be in 2018.

It seems to me I've read or saw pictures of someone using something like a door lock actuator on the carb linkage to blip the throttle open to set the choke and also put the choke cam on a high idle and then once the car warms up but is still on the high idle and being controlled by the remote start system a secondary signal is sent to the actuator to blip the throttle again to take it off of the high idle cam. Yes, it would require some work and engineering but I've seen harder things done on older cars with good results. As far as the existing horn relay, put a meter inline on the horn activation wire and take a reading. If it draws let's say 100mA or less and the remote system can control up to 200mA, then it should work fine but if the factory relay is just a tad under this 200mA, then I would run an additional relay. Jim1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012

1973 Nova Custom

1974 Spirit of America Nova

1973 Nova Pro-Street