2012 Ford Focus PTS/Man Trans Viper 5706/Dball2

Ok guys, I've got a new problem with the single digit temps that just set in. When remote starting, it cranks for half the time, does not start, and will not attempt to re-crank/start. The headlights stay on as do the interior functions (heater, etc.) and I can't shut anything off with the remote. I have to get into the car and start or cycle the PTS to get the car to shut-down. If I run the car for a few minutes and try the remote start again, it works. Doesn't seem to like the cold...perfect, lol! Vehicle has a new battery, about a month and a half old, cranks fine otherwise, albeit a hair slower due to the low temp. I do not have an RPM wire hooked up from an injector/coil, it was getting the signal through the D2D. I've tried relearning the RPM at different rpm's, (above 1200, at idle, at idle warm, etc.) doesn't make a difference. The menu options are set to Tach, ( as that is the only one that will work with a manual trans, (?) ) I was able to do shut-down diagnostics on the last no-start fail, I got codes 7, 3, 4. I know what they are, but I don't have them in front of me. 7 is the MTS shutdown/set procedure, and I know I did that correctly, as I got a conformation honk and it did crank, just not long enough. 3 & 4 I can't remember...one of them is low crank rpm, maybe ?    Not sure what else to look at/try. Should I run an RPM wire anyway? I read a post where someone with a 5706v/dball2 combo issue had to hardwire the Dball2 for B+ as the brain wasn't supplying enough battery in his application. Not sure that is applicable, but who knows? I hope everyone is staying warm, thanks for any advice! Rob

Just saw this thread: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=140678 Given the relationship between Ford/Mazda clicked on it, and ricardoboston is having a similar problem with his Mazda 3. Here are the highlights: Sparkie: "Hardwire the tach output wire from the DB-ALL2 (PURPLE / white) to the remote starter's tach input. Program the remote starter for new tach signal. Failing that, connect tach from remote starter to a tach source on the motor. You can try just connecting the PURPLE / white tach output from the DB-ALL2 to the PURPLE / white tach input for the remote starter first as this is easy. The processor in the in the remote starter is sometimes too slow to get a good tach signal through D2D. DEI recommends hardwiring it this way on many vehicles where virtual tach won't work (Hyundai and Kia). If this fails then hardwire the remote starter's tach input to the engine's tach wire under the hood. Make sure that the ground for the remote starter is good and to the chassis. " jameselantra: "wire tach from engine to remote start 9 pin harness not dball2. This is correct. However I just said run the tach from your crank to your RS because with your model RS if tach is present aka hardwired to the RS it will ignore the dball. So you can turn off the dball setting, in your case it wont make a diff as when you hardwired a Viper 4105v the dball tach signal is automatically ignored if present. makes no diff at all. Hardwired tach takes priority on all DEI RS brains. This I am 100% sure of. I dont give advice unless Im 100% sure I know what Im saying. If your car was my car I would first hard wire the tach Then I would start the car, hold the valet button un the Viper 4105v till the red led glows solid (should happen pretty fast) then let go of the valet switch. Then shut off the car. Then test all should work" I'll run a hardwire from my 5706v to the Dball2 and re-test, if that does not work, then I'll run a hardwire from engine injector/tach signal to 5706v and report back, thanks guys!

Ran a hardwire from the 5706v tach to the Dball2 tach last night, however it did not hit single digit temps overnight so not 100% sure that cured the issue. This morning, in the low/mid teens, it did start as normal, so all is well until the temps drop and then I'll really know if it has been fixed.

Did you remember to re-learn tach? If you ran a wire anyway why didnt you go to the engine bay for tach?

jameselantra: Thanks for the help. Yup, relearned tach, received 1 light flash conformation. Why didn't I run a wire? I wanted to see if just a hardwire from 5706v to Dball2 would make a difference, it didn't. I had a failed r/s this morning, so I'll run that wire tomorrow night, yay! Gettin' closer, maybe, lol!

Update: Wired 5706v Tach wire direct to #1 fuel injector, GN/BL at connector on front/pass side of Intake manifold, ( might be C110 or 109.) Relearn Tach procedure at 1500 rpm +. Checked r/s function multiple times that night = all good. Successful r/s yesterday morning, but it was in the 30's. This morning, failed r/s. A little surprised due to the temps being in the 20's but it was windy so maybe that wind-chill factor kicked in and everything got "cold enough." Momentary crank, then it just sits there with all the accessories on, then honks the horn once. The remote alarm goes off reporting r/s error as well. I didn't get a chance to run the shut down diag, ( had to jump in and go.) If it fails again tomorrow morning I might have enough time to run the diag. Probably get the same codes as before, but who knows...? wth? and more importantly, what can I try next...I'm up for the next best idea (or any idea!)

Does your car have built in anti-grind? If so, can you just go with a fixed crank time?

mscguy: Good question, I'll have to do some research. I've read that due to my car being a manual transmission, "TACH" is the only option I can use in the menu, so fixed crank times are not applicable, unless that is wrong, (?) Had another weird start this morning, got cold enough last night with the windchill to make for a good r/s test, so I stood next to the car this time, hit the r/s, car started right up, was running as I was walking back inside then it shut down, everything turned off as if I hit the remote again, but I didn't touch/bump/etc the remote, so not sure what that was. I've never had it run and shut off before, up until this point the issue was a very short crank, no start, then accessories/lights stay on and I get an error message on the remote and I can't shut anything off with the remote. This has all been with the LCD remote, maybe I should try the other non-LCD remote?

where did you buy your hardware?

robl wrote: mscguy: Good question, I'll have to do some research. I've read that due to my car being a manual transmission, "TACH" is the only option I can use in the menu, so fixed crank times are not applicable, unless that is wrong, (?)

Yeah. Never mind. I forgot about that.