15 Tacoma Avital 4113 w/dball2

Installed a Avital 4113 with dball2 for immobilizer bypass. Got everything installed and programed, tested multiple times worked fine. A day later it stopped working. Rechecked connections, everything was still plugged in. Now my issue is there is no response from the unit at all. Checked all the power and grounds at the plugs on the module. Cant get the LED to flash when trying to go into programming either. Seems as the module is dead. Want to make sure before i try and get it replaced that there isnt somthing im missing.

I had it working after wiring, then unplugged to tuck it away. Thats when it stopped working. Pulled everything back out and double checked. Possibly the avital changed from D2D when I disconnected everything. Would that cause the avital to be totally unresponsive?

Test all 12v connections at the A&G vital with reference to the ground pin on the avital. Test everything at the avital not where you made your power and ground connections. If u have 12.6+ volts tap the WHITE/ blue (activation input) wire to ground. If the avital responds "a" you have your antenna unplugged, "b" your remote has dead batteries, "c" your remotes need reprogrammed, or "d" your antenna, antenna cable, or remote is bad.I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Check what PTS 760 said, also double check the ground connection of the Neutral Safety Wire. If you used the switch inline with Neutral Safety, check the switch connections and make sure that the switch is "on".Lectric Guy

Hoping to get back on it Saturday. I checked all connections at the remote start module. Im going to triple check everything again and check pin fit. Only tested at the back of the connector. I forgot about tapping the activation wire to ground to see if that works. I got a bunch of good info from the site and hope to track it down.

Do a shutdown diagnostic and report back.

Double checked today. Have 12v constant at connecor. Proper power in acc and ign. Ran a ground wire to the battery and ohm checked at the connector the neutral wire and ground wire. Both are good. Tried the activation wire to ground still no response, no clicking or LED flashing. I tried shutdown diag but doesnt do anything either.

At this point Im guessing the module is dead. Now I have to figure out how to get it warrantied since I bought it off of Amazon. Did a few Autopage installs the dealer I work at a few years ago so this isnt my first time installing one. Dont see how it would have worked the 10 times I tested it then stop working the next day.

Currently have the DBALL2 disconnected just trying to get the remote start back to functioning. These are the wires I have hooked up on the remote start if someone could confirm Im not missing anything and that I possibly have a bad module.

H1/8 - Chassis ground

Door lock light blue - Grn/Blk at drivers door connector

Door lock green - Violet at drivers door connector

H2/1 - BLK/RED IGN SWITCH

H2/2 - GRN/BLK IGN SWITCH

H2/3 - WHT/GRN IGN SWITCH

H2/4 - WHT/RED IGN SWITCH

H2/5 - BLU/YEL IGN SWITCH

H2/6 - WHT/BLU IGN SWITCH

Satellite harness 3 - 2nd starter relay

H3/1 - Chassis ground

H3/2 - BLK/WHT AT DLC

H3/3 - BLUE AT BRAKE SWITCH

I will double check your connections but the avital 4113 manual I'm looking at isn't matching the PIN numbers that you supplied for for avital 4113 (ex. there is nothing labeled H3 in the manual)..Am I missing something or is there a mistake on your behalfI drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

My bad I had the wrong manual. Conections look good. I assume you used a DMM and put the black lead on H1/8 ground and the red lead on both H2/4 & H2/6 for 12v? If good leave the black probe on H1/8 and put the red probe on H2/1 to test for ignition. No programming or shutdown diagnostics will happen if this circuit is bad. If good, trying completely disconnecting the brain and letting it sit for 15-20 to discharge the internal components before plugging it back in ( I've had some luck with this. Plug the H2 harness in first followed by the other harnesses then test it. No luck? Try bench testing. If u have spare harnesses all you need is 12v on H2/4 & H2/6, ground on H1/8, and switch power on H2/1 ign for programming purposes. Also, plug the antenna in to and test the unit for functionality with the remotes and WHITE/ blue activation input. If no luck, the unit is defective. Good luckI drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Im going to bench test in the morning as a last ditch effort. Im guessing the module is dead. Any luck with getting them to warranty it? I see they say warranty is only good if installed through an authorized dealer. I guess if they dont cover it, Amazon may possibly swap it out. I just dont want to have to unsolder the wires to send it back and resolder it when I get the new one.