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Viper 5301-2LE starter not allowing car to start


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aserynoum 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 04, 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 05, 2016 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote aserynoum
Ok so it still doesnt work.. I have removed the required connection, now once you start the car by key, the car doesnt die when you take the key out... it fells like the starter keeps going...
I also get 6 flashes and 3 flashes together...
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: January 05, 2016 at 12:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Time to strip it all out. I think you fried the brain first time around.
aserynoum 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: January 04, 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 05, 2016 at 12:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote aserynoum
Ah, just what I was afraid of.... How do I find out how much damage is done? My ecu gone bad or?
aserynoum 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 04, 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 05, 2016 at 12:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote aserynoum
Disconnected everything, luckily the car is still fine, 6 flashes were because the hood pin wasnt activated, forgot to close the hood. Should I go over all the wiring once more? or is there no use at even trying now?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 05, 2016 at 1:25 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Alarm ECU is probably fried best way is to test everything with a meter.
Ignition is probably shorting to constant live.
aserynoum 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: January 04, 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 05, 2016 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote aserynoum
Ok, Im going to check that.
In the mean time, I have connected my unlock to the unlock all wire under the passenger kick-panel. But my Disarm wire is connected to the unlock on the driver side (the blue wire which requires a double tap signal). Is that ok?
1 more thing to note, the car doesnt lock, only unlocks. And i tested with a voltmeter, and there is no signal coming from the viper module.
Thanks again.
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
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Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 06, 2016 at 3:06 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
howie ll wrote:
Alarm ECU is probably fried best way is to test everything with a meter.
Ignition is probably shorting to constant live.
I would think that too.
You grounded out your high current R/S wires and ignition switch wires through your -200ma same name connections.
aserynoum 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 04, 2016
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 07, 2016 at 12:07 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote aserynoum
mscguy wrote:
howie ll wrote:
Alarm ECU is probably fried best way is to test everything with a meter.
Ignition is probably shorting to constant live.
I would think that too.
You grounded out your high current R/S wires and ignition switch wires through your -200ma same name connections.
Can you please tell me exactly which wire I have grounded? I am not too sure what you mean by high current R/S wires. My english is very poor.
Thank you.
I have been looking around and it seems that the alarm immobalizer ecu is perfectly fine. If I take the alarm and remote start out, and everything else (idatalink out). The car starts up/ shuts down, locks, arms and disarms like normal. So I have forsure messed up the wiring somewhere. I will double check once more to make sure I am indeed connecting the proper connections.
Appreciate your help guys.
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 07, 2016 at 7:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
kreg357 wrote:

I see some problems with the low current (-) ignition wires connected to the car.  Specifically, you should NOT connect

H2/12, H2/13 and H2/14 to the Sienna's high current (+) ignition wires.  Only connect the H3/ thick (+) wires as you have
done/ indicated.
This is what I meant. By connecting both, you may have fried something inside.
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