2014 ford fusion, avital 4103

i have installed an avital 4103 and a Dball2 bypass and a hardwire install and i use installation type 1 'with OEM remote start for the first time on this car and i have a problem with the car. the car starts on the remote start and doesn't stop anymore even if press on the brake the only way to make the car stop is having the Dball disconnected from the harness then i try d2d and it made it worse ,so i took everything off and i rewired with an ads al ca installation type 2 ,and then nothing happened at all . the ads al ca is saying to not wire any ignition ,any accessory or start wire ,then i try to wire acc ign and start wire to see if it works but nothing got better so now i don't know if i damaged the remote start because i hook up the acc ign start wires. it doesn't even click the remote start brain anymore when i press the remote. This car confuses me a lot because it has 1 can H for oem remote start 1 can Lfor oem remote start 1 can H for w/o oem r/s 1can L for w/o oem r/s ms can H ms can L . i use type 2 for install what happened was that i have it programmed the both ways with OEM remote start and without OEM remote start and the both ways it got programmed ,it wouldn't start??? so i took everything off the car but i hope i can have some help here because i need put it back together another thing is DBALL don't say nothing about acc ign and start wire should this car have it connected ???thanks

guys i was thinking to try a fortin with the harness any idea with one i should buy thanks

Use an ALCA, simple. Hardest part is removing that one OBD bolt.

Plus 1 with Mark.    That one OBD2 bolt s a PITA.   The F150 is a bit easier...Soldering is fun!

Box wrench and a minute of time. Putting it back.. Box wrench and 2 minutes of time.

@ Howie      Box Wrench = Spanner         ( Football = Soccer,  Ha !  )

I found a 7mm short swivel socket that helps cuts it down to 45 seconds or so....  With the single CAN ADS AL-CA bypass modules, I just strip and temporarily insert the CAN wires in to the correct OBD2 pins for the first part of the module programming.  Love those iDatalink modules!

Soldering is fun!

And I thought I was the only one that did that, I should of known a few of you sharp ones on here would also.

I always just unplug the connector from the diag box and flip it through the opening. Make connections and then plug it back in. If you use the plug with the blue / YELLOW and blue/red with the lock shaved off you can solder all 6 wire (2 sets of CAN wires and Power and Ground) then plug it in with the first set of wires in the ALCA, then easily switch plugs when prompted. Whole job takes 10 minutes! With a 4 minute smoke (union) break. To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

yes i just did using ads al ca only and it works like a charm but one problem the OEM remote the range its no that good so i was thinking to get a COMPUSTAR RF-2WG9-SPTWO WAY REMOTE KIT WITH ANTENNA 3000 FOOT RANGE just don't know if this one fits on the CA ,or is the right one THANKS

Bloody cheek, I know what box spanner is and a wrench but how about Allen screw heads (HEX) and Posidrive. And I flip that socket on Fords, so much easier.