the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

08 Nissan Titan RS - 6200S - Blade-AL


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 22, 2016 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
OK.. If you have time to review this it would be much appreciated.. If you have a membership to one of the pay wiring sites that you could provide wiring that would be appreciated as well.. Got some conflicting stuff from my googling but will test every wire..
Connector 1 (CN1), 6-Pin
Pin 1 White – Accessory 12V positive (+) output. – Connect to Red at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 2 Yellow - Starter 12V positive (+) output. - Connect to Blue/Green at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 3 Green – Ignition 12V positive (+) output and input. - Connect to BLACK/ Red at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 4 Black - Ground negative (-) input. – Connect to Ground
Pin 5 Red - Constant 12V positive (+) power input. - Connect to Green at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 6 GREEN / WHITE – Parking light positive (+) - Connect to RED / Blue at Dimmer Switch on Dash
Connector 3 (CN2), 20-Pin: Programmable Output Connector (POC)
Pin 1 Blue - 250mA negative (-) output when armed and during remote start (while running). – N/A
Pin 2 ORANGE / Black - Parking Light Reminder (-) input that monitors the vehicle’s parking lights. – N/A
Pin 3 GREEN / WHITE [POC 1] - Parking light 250mA negative (-) output. - N/A
Pin 4 Light Blue – Parking / Emergency brake negative (-) input. – N/A
Pin 5 RED / Black [POC 2] – 2nd Starter 250mA negative (-) output. This output can be used to trigger the prewired relay located on the main ignition harness. – Needed? I believe so..
Pin 6 Light Blue/White - Brake 12V positive (+) input. - RED / Green At Switch Above the Brake Pedal
Pin 7 Green [POC 3] - 2nd Ignition 250mA negative (-) output. – N/A
Pin 8 Violet/Black - Trunk negative (-) input. – N/A
Pin 9 WHITE/ Black [POC 4] - 2nd Accessory 250mA negative (-) output. – N/A
Pin 10 RED / White - Door trigger input. – N/A
Pin 11 Black [POC 5] – Status/Ground while running 250mA negative (-) output. - N/A
Pin 12 BROWN / White - This is a dual-purpose wire that is selectable through Option 4-9 – N/A
Pin 13 Orange [POC 6] - Factory Arm 250mA negative (-) output. – Needed? Does it arm with lock? Bypass controlling?
Pin 14 Pink - Slave/Closed Loop negative (-) input. – N/A
Pin 15 ORANGE / White [POC 7] - Factory Disarm 250mA negative (-) output- Needed? Disarm when unlock? Bypass controlling?
Pin 16 Yellow/Black - Engine sensing input. – N/A
Pin 17 White [POC 8] - Horn honk 250mA negative (-) output. - RED / White In Harness at Steering Column
Pin 18 Gray/Black – Hood Pin negative (-) input. - N/A
Pin 19 Violet [POC 9] - Violet [POC 9] - Auxiliary 1 - 250mA negative (-) output. - N/A
Pin 20 Brown - Siren 12V positive (+) output. - N/A
Connector 5 (CN4), 6-Pin
Pin 1 Not used
Pin 2 Violet/White - Trunk release 250mA negative (-) output. - N/A
Pin 3 ORANGE / Black - 2nd Unlock 250mA negative (-) output. - N/A
Pin 4 Blue - Unlock 250mA negative (-) output. – N/A Being controlled by bypass?
Pin 5 Blue/Black - Lock 250mA (-) negative output. - N/A Being controlled by bypass?
Pin 6 Not used
Blade-AL(DL) NI4 Firmware
Ignition Output - Connect to BLACK/ Red at Ignition Switch Harness
Unlock/Disarm – Connect to Pink (-) in harness in driver kick panel ?
Lock/Arm – Connect to Red (-) in harness in driver kick panel ?
WHITE/ Black – Immobilizer Data Vehicle Side – Connect to Brown Pin 4 on Immobilizer
WHITE/ Red – Immobilizer Data Connector Side – Connect to Brown Pin 4 on Immobilizer
BROWN / Red – CANH – Connect to Blue Pin 6 on OBDII
BROWN / Yellow – CANL – Connect to Pink pin 14 on OBDII
ORANGE / Black – Immobilizer Data – Connect to Brown Pin 4 on Immobilzer
Orange – Immobilizer Clock – Connect to Green Pin 2 of immobilizer
Gray/Red – Ground – Connect to Ground
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 25, 2016 at 6:00 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
Any chance to review this yet? The only part that I'm unsure about is the locks..
I purchased a wiring diagram for wire color and they say this about locks:
"Lock and arm at BCM pin 13 - empty spot"
"Unlock and disarm at BCM pin 14 - empty spot"
So what does that even mean?
Then bulldog's says:
POWER LOCK - BLUE (TYPE B), NOTE #3 - @ POWER WINDOW Main Switch, (WHITE, 16-PIN PLUG), PIN 6 or 4
POWER UNLOCK - RED (TYPE B), Requires Double Pulse, NOTE #4     @ POWER WINDOW Main Switch, (WHITE, 16-PIN PLUG), PIN 7 or 6
NOTE #3: TEST this wire while Turning the KEY in the Drivers Door. This wire will also ARM the
FACTORY ALARM.
NOTE #4: TEST this wire while Turning the KEY in the Drivers Door. This wire will also DISARM the
FACTORY ALARM.
Thanks
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 26, 2016 at 11:04 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Concerning the locks...
Nissans were typically a PITA because you had to run wires into the door. Then some really bright fellow found
out that the locks could be controlled from inside the vehicle by making the necessary connections at the BCM.
The goof was that depending on the vehicle and options, some times there were no actual wires at those pins.
The work-around was to use a properly oriented diode, inserted into the connectors empty pin hole and connect
the R/S aftermarket system locks wires to the corresponding diode. The diodes leg is the correct diameter to
fit and make good contact internally. Just have to secure the diode to an adjacent wire to prevent it from
moving out of the connector. Of course, another way is to obtain the correct size connector pins ( junk yard
pull ) and add them to the BCM connector, then solder on your R/S lock wires.
Soldering is fun!
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 29, 2016 at 8:15 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
I was going to use the lock wires at the switch instead of screwing with putting wires in the BCM.. I probed all the red and blue wires in that harness and could not find one that went to ground when pressing the lock/unlock on the door..
Any ideas? Thanks
08 Nissan Titan RS - 6200S - Blade-AL - Page 2 -- posted image.
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 30, 2016 at 7:37 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
Also, I did some wiring last night.. I do not have a dimmer switch so can't tap my parking lights there.. Any ideas on where to grab this?
Thanks
No idea why I don't have a dimmer switch.. I never realized it..
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 01, 2016 at 7:31 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
OK the trick was the wires for the locks need to be tested with the key in the door turning.. I did just run wires to the switch pictured above.. Major PITA..
Last question.. For the lock/arm unlock/disarm wires.. Do I connect them to my blade wires or the 6 pin connector of my remote start, or both?
Thanks
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 01, 2016 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
I just finished installing a Compustar CS6200 with a Blade-AL and RF-2WG9-SP remote/antenna in my 2008 Nissan Titan..
I'm trying to program the remotes.. (I programmed the blade already).
When I do the off/on cycle 5 times I get two parking light blinks instead of the one that the manual says I should.. I try programming a remote and it doesn't work..
Any ideas?
Also, my security light in my Titan is flashing with the key out.. I'm not sure if that's normal and I've just never noticed it or if that is an issue.. Truck does start normally..
Thanks for any help..
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 02, 2016 at 7:29 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
Thought of something driving in.. I didn't hook up the hood pin to anything so that very well may be it.. Will try that tonight..
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 02, 2016 at 5:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
OK someone please help.. The remote starter flashes the parking lights twice after going into remote programming and I don't know why.. Here is how I have everything hooked up:
Connector 1 (CN1), 6-Pin
Pin 1 White – Accessory 12V positive (+) output. – Connect to Red at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 2 Yellow - Starter 12V positive (+) output. - Connect to Blue/Green at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 3 Green – Ignition 12V positive (+) output and input. - Connect to BLACK/ Red at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 4 Black - Ground negative (-) input. – Connect to Ground
Pin 5 Red - Constant 12V positive (+) power input. - Connect to Green at Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 6 GREEN / WHITE – Parking light positive (+) - Connect to RED / Blue at Dimmer Switch on Dash
Connector 3 (CN2), 20-Pin: Programmable Output Connector (POC)
Pin 5 RED / Black [POC 2] – 2nd Starter 250mA negative (-) output. This output can be used to trigger the prewired relay located on the main ignition harness. – Connected to violet wire on relay for 2nd starter.
Pin 6 Light Blue/White - Brake 12V positive (+) input. - RED / Green At Switch Above the Brake Pedal
Pin 17 White [POC 8] - Horn honk 250mA negative (-) output. - RED / White In Harness at Steering Column
Pin 18 Gray/Black – Hood Pin negative (-) input. - Connected to Ground
Connector 5 (CN4), 6-Pin
Pin 4 Blue - Unlock 250mA negative (-) output. – Ran wire to RED wire at switch in door.
Pin 5 Blue/Black - Lock 250mA (-) negative output. - Ran wire to BLUE wire at switch in door.
Blade-AL(DL) NI4 Firmware
WHITE/ Black – Immobilizer Data Vehicle Side – Connect to Brown Pin 4 on Immobilizer
WHITE/ Red – Immobilizer Data Connector Side – Connect to Brown Pin 4 on Immobilizer
BROWN / Red – CANH – Connect to Blue Pin 6 on OBDII
BROWN / Yellow – CANL – Connect to Pink pin 14 on OBDII
ORANGE / Black – Immobilizer Data – Connect to Brown Pin 4 on Immobilzer
Orange – Immobilizer Clock – Connect to Green Pin 2 of immobilizer
Gray/Red – Ground – Connect to Ground
Any ideas why I can't get the remotes programmed?
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 02, 2016 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tbird2340
Ok I'm an idiot. I was waiting too long and the two flashes were it exiting programming mode. Got them programmed. Learned the tach and got good verification for that..
Now when I try a remote start I get 6 flashes which says it's the hood pin.
I have the hood pin wire connected directly to ground (tested and verified) so why is it saying this?
Page of 3

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, March 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer