2005 Dodge GC, Avital 4105L, Xpresskit PKUMUX

Hello. I want to thank everyone in advance for all help and advice. I want to surprise my wife for Christmas and install a remote starter in her 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. I have purchased the Avital 4105L with the Directed Electronics Xpresskit PKUMUX. I want to make sure I have everything so I can get the install done in one day without additional trips to the store or online purchases. Will not be much of a surprise if I do not get it done in a day. I would like to use the remote start, door lock / unlock, and rear hatch open feature of the Avital 4105L key fob if possible. The primary features I want are the remote start (of course) and the rear hatch open. I would assume she could use the door lock / unlock on the factory key fob if needed. I do have 2 factory keys to program the Xpresskit PKUMUX unit. My main questions have to do with resistors and relays: 1) Can someone let me know if my installation requires either? 2) If so, where do I need them and what kind of resistor / relay would be needed. I have found many wiring diagrams online and should have no problem making the connections for the installation. I have plenty of experience soldering, etc. just not much experience when it comes to resistors / relays.

You need some more supplies and time is running short. If let me say that the PKUMUX is not my favorite bypass module for that vehicle. I get a lot more bang for the buck from an iDalaink ADS DL module. It does more, is easier to install, only needs one key to program and is more reliable. It also handles the Factory Alarm system, which hopefully your van does not have. The downside for the DIYer is that the ADS DL needs to be flashed with specific firmware with a special cable. Anyway, you have the PKUMUX and two factory keys, so use that. It will handle the transponder chip and the Starter MUX wire. First, you will need a Directed 451M door lock module for the locks. You could do it with 30/40 Amp SPDT relays and some resistors but the 451M comes in a nice handy package with a nice supply of resistors. You will need these resistors for other things in the van like parking lights and hatch release. While you might get away without relays for the Parking Lights and Trunk Release, it would be best to get the relays and use them for reliability. Buy two 30/40 Amp SPDT Bosch style automotive relays with the 5 pin harness. Here is a link to Bulldog Security : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx They have the necessary wiring info for your van plus relay diagrams and photos for the various wires, etc. Use that as your guide. A few tips : 1. On the 4105 R/S 6 Pin plug you will only connect the Pink, Purple and both Red wires. There is no ACC wire or need    for the Flex relay output. 2. Follow the Type H wiring in the 451M install guide for the One-Wire door lock system using the correct resistors. 3. The other resistors in the 451M kit can be used for the Parking Lights ( 2K ohm ) and the Hatch Release ( 1.5k to    1.7h ohm ). 4. Set the Viper to (+) Parking Light output and follow the Bulldog Parking Light diagram on the top left. The 451M kit has a 2k and a 5,360 ohm resistor for the locks. For the Parking Lights connect the 1,200 ohm and the 820 ohm resistors in series ( 2020 ohms ). The Trunk Release needs 1,500 to 1,690 ohms, so put the 1,000 and the 560 ohm in series for that. I would do all the wiring and relay setup on the bench prior to vehicle install. Keep things neat and makes for an easier install. Plan on spending many hours under the dash. Be careful programming the PKUMUX.Soldering is fun!

kreg - Appreciate the info. I took a look at the iDataLink ADS DL module, but it requires the purchase of a $50 cable to program. I did not see any sellers on Amazon or Ebay that offered to program it. Is there another bypass besides the PKUMUX that would make my install easier? Or will all bypass modules require resistors and relays? I am not opposed to return the PKUMUX. How do I know if the van has a factory alarm. I know the horn honks and parking lights flash when it locks from the key fob. But thought that was more just to let you know it locked.

Alarm test : Start the engine and roll down the drivers window. Turn off the engine and remove the key. Open and close the drivers door.   Watch the instrument cluster while you press the lock button on the Factory FOB, then press the lock button again. Any Security type lights on or flashing? Wait a full 60 seconds and then open the drivers door using only the inside handle. Horn honking? That gen Caravan / Voyager /Town & Country is a bit of work to do. I used to do them with all relays, resistors and a spare key in a 556UW coffin. Uncut chipped keys cost $5 and are easily programmed to the van. Using a full featured bypass module like the ADS DL or even the more expensive ADS AL-CA cuts down on a lot of wiring. If you don't have the Factory Alarm system, the info above will get it done. Just set everything up during bench prep.Soldering is fun!

OK, no factory alarm in the van. Since I really do not want to spend the extra $50 for the programming cable the iDataLink requires I will stick with the PKUMUX. A quick question, do I just connect the door lock / unlock, rear hatch, and parking light wires from the R/S directly to the vehicle (using relays and resistors of course)? Or do they have to go through the PKUMUX for any reason? I did not have a chance to review the bulldog guide yet.

The 451M will connect to the 4105 via a 3 Pin harness. The Type H wiring will have 2 wires going to Chassis ground, 2 wires not used and the other two wires will have a resistor added and then they will be combined into one wire that connects to the vans lock/unlock wire. The Parking Light relay will connect to the 4105 Parking Light output, chassis ground and one wire with the resistor will go the vans Parking Light MUX wire. The Hatch Release relay will have one wire going to the 4105's Trunk Release wire, one wire going to +12V ( 4105 Red ), one wire going to Chassis Ground through the resistors and one wire going to the vans Hatch Release wire. As mentioned, I would make all the relay, bypass and R/S module interconnections on the bench prior to install. It will save a bunch on time when under the dash. You will have all the necessary wires from the R/S assy ready to run to their respective destinations. While not as complex as your assy, here is a bench prepped unit for a 2006 Dodge RAM : Soldering is fun!

kreg, I started on the wiring assembly today and have some questions. Here is a link to the PKUMUX guide: https://directechs.blob.core.windows.net/documents/pkumux_en_ig_cp20110630a.pdf. 1) Would I use the PKUMUX Install "A"? 2) Does the PKUMUX blue/white go to 4105 R/S "Primary Harness" 9-pin WHITE/ blue? 3) Do I only use the blue/white, red, and black wires from the PKUMUX? 4) Do I need to connect the 4105 R/S 9-pin brown (horn output) to the van horn wire? I would think so. Do I need a resistor/relay? 5) Do I need to connect any wires from the 4105 R/S's "Remote Start harness" 5 pin to anything? 6) Do I need to connect any wires from the 4105 R/S's "Satellite harness" 4 pin to anything? 7) Do I need to connect any wires from the 4105 R/S's "D2D Harness" 4 pin to anything? 8) Do I need to connect anything to the van's "Starter 2" wire? 9) You mention to use a relay for the rear hatch pop. When reviewing Bulldog security wiring guide it says to only use resistor with (-) NEGATIVE output and shows the relay used with (+) POSITIVE output. Would I wire it the same as their diagram, but the white wire from relay would go to RED / White (-200 mA Trunk Release Output) from "Primary Harness" 9 pin of 4105 R/S?

A lot of questions... Here is the preemptive answer. Viper 4105 Main 9 Pin 1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM        to PKUMUX Blue 2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM      not used 3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)            not used 4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUTnot used 5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED not used 6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT          GREEN/ PURPLE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS, WHITE Plug 7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT            to Trunk Relay, Pin 85 8 BLACK GROUND    Chassis Ground 9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH      set to Positive to Parking Light relay, Pin 86    R/S 5 Pin 1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT   Chassis Ground ( add to Black wire on 9 Pin ) 2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE            BLUE/GREEN @ COIL PACK 3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE          WHITE/ TAN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL 4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE        to kit supplied hood pin 5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT        not used 4-pin satellite harness diagram 1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT             to PKUMUX Blue/White 2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT    not used 3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT      not used 4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT       not used Heavy gauge 6 Pin 1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT          Battery        2 PINK/WHITE (+) Flex ACCESSORY OR IGNITION     not used 3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT           Battery 4 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT              not used 5 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT YELLOW (+) (20 Gauge) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, BLACK Plug 6 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT PINK/WHITE (+) (20 Gauge) (2 Wires, use either wire)@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, BLACK Plug Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT        DEI 451M 3 Pin plug 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT          DEI 451M 3 Pin plug Trunk Relay Pin 85 to Viper RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT Pin 86 to Viper thick Red ( add ) Pin 87 to Chassis Ground ( add to Viper Black wire ) Pin 30 to PURPLE / TAN (-) @ BCM, GREEN Connector, Pin 6 through ( 1k ohm and 560 ohm ) resistors Parking Light Relay Pin 86 to Viper White Parking Light output Pin 85 and 87 to Chassis Ground ( add to Viper Black wire ) Pin 30 to WHITE/ BROWN (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, BLACK Plug though ( 1.2k ohm and 820 ohm ) resistors 451M wiring 3 Pin Plug to Viper 3 Pin Lock output connector WHITE/ Black wire           not used BROWN / Black wire           not used Violet and Violet/Black    to Chassis Ground ( add to Viper Black wire ) GREEN/ Black wire through 5.36k ohm resistor to PURPLE / GREEN (1-Wire Door Lock System) @ BCM, BLACK plug, Plug 2 Blue/Black wire through 2k ohm resistor to PURPLE / GREEN (1-Wire Door Lock System) @ BCM, BLACK plug, Plug 2 PKUMUX wiring ( follow Type B diagram ) Blue/White to Viper Blue (-) Status Output Pink to Viper thick Pink ( add ) Violet to Viper thick Purple ( add ) Light Green not used Blue to Viper Light GREEN/ Black RED / White not used WHITE/ Violet to vehicle side of cut PURPLE / BROWN (-) (20 Gauge) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, BLACK Plug Violet/Black to switch side of cut PURPLE / BROWN (-) (20 Gauge) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, BLACK Plug WHITE/ Black   not used WHITE/ Red   not used Red to Viper thick Red ( add ) Black to Viper Black Chassis Ground ( add ) That should do it. More answers : 1) Would I use the PKUMUX Install "A"?      No, use Type B. You should have the PURPLE / Brown MUX wire. 2) Does the PKUMUX blue/white go to 4105 R/S "Primary Harness" 9-pin WHITE/ blue?    No, follow the above wiring. 3) Do I only use the blue/white, red, and black wires from the PKUMUX?     Yes, follow the Type B diagram and the above wiring. 4) Do I need to connect the 4105 R/S 9-pin brown (horn output) to the van horn wire? I would think so. Do I need a resistor/relay?    Not mandatory and horn is slow to respond. No relay or resistor needed. 5) Do I need to connect any wires from the 4105 R/S's "Remote Start harness" 5 pin to anything?   Yes, follow the above wiring.    It is best to run in Tach Mode. You are running wires out to the engine compartment ( hood and battery ) 6) Do I need to connect any wires from the 4105 R/S's "Satellite harness" 4 pin to anything?   Yes, follow the above wiring. 7) Do I need to connect any wires from the 4105 R/S's "D2D Harness" 4 pin to anything?     No, not used. 8) Do I need to connect anything to the van's "Starter 2" wire?   The PKUMUX connects to that wire. Follow the above wiring. 9) You mention to use a relay for the rear hatch pop. When reviewing Bulldog security wiring guide it says to only use resistor    with (-) NEGATIVE output and shows the relay used with (+) POSITIVE output. Would I wire it the same as their diagram, but the    white wire from relay would go to RED / White (-200 mA Trunk Release Output) from "Primary Harness" 9 pin of 4105 R/S?    Bulldog R/S units output a (+) Trunk Release signal, your Viper has a (-) Trunk Release output. Follow the above relay wiring.Soldering is fun!

kreg, Thank you very much for all the info. I have a question about the Parking Light relay. Your recent post gives different steps for the relay connections than the Bulldog site. Bulldog site says: Pin 85 to R/S White Parking Light output Pin 86 and 30 to Chassis Ground Pin 87 to WHITE/ BROWN (-) @ HEADLIGT SWITCH Could you clarify which way I should wire the relay? Also, is it required to connect the hood pin? Will the R/S work without it connected? Thanks!

The Hood Pin Switch is not absolutely mandatory. The R/S will work without it. However, it is a very important safety feature. Most people never remember how to put the system into Valet Mode so having the Hood Pin installed protects the vehicle and anyone working on the engine during service. I always install the Hood Safety, either using the vehicles built in Factory Alarm switch or adding a tilt switch to a hood hinge bolt. Either Parking Light relay wiring will work, assuming a (+) Parking Light output control signal from the R/S system. Two things to mention about the Bulldog wiring : 1. Generally accepted Bosch style relay convention is that Pin 85 has the (-) signal and Pin 86 gets the (+) signal. On most relays it doesn't matter but on some relays that have a built in coil quenching diode, this polarity ( Pin 85 = (-) ) must be followed. My diagram follows this protocol while Bulldog's does not. 2. The relay is just a switch and the signal can flow through in either direction. My diagram has the R/S Parking Light signal going from Pin 87 to Pin 30 while Bulldog's diagram has it going from Pin 30 to Pin 87. Again either way is fine and with the ground signal we are using, no big deal. But it is important that the unused Pin 87a gets insulated because it's connected to Pin 30 ( N.C. ) while the relay is at rest ( de-energized ). You can also de-pin that unused wire at Pin 87a.Soldering is fun!