2003 Ram 1550, Remote Start/Door Unlock

So I'm trying to install a Viper 4105V remote start/door unlock system in my 3rd gen 2003 Ram 1500. After googling I did come across a few forums posts and I've combined them in with my notes from: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=22042 pin number - color - description - ram wire Pri Harness 1 Light green black - 200ma factory alarm disarm - NA 2 GREEN / WHITE - 200ma factory alarm arm - NA 3 yellow - ignition out - To Heavy 6 ? 4 WHITE/ blue - activation output - NA ? 5 orange - 500ma ground when locked - NA ? 6 brown - 200ma horn output - BLACK/ red steering column 7 RED / white - trunk release - OPT 8 black - ground 9 white - light flash - purple / YELLOW @ headlight switch Remote start harness 1 BLACK/ white - parking brake - ground 2 PURPLE / white - tach - injector or coil wire 3 brown - brake shutdown - ground to 12v 4 gray - hood pin - ground when hood shut 5 blue/white - 200ma rear defogger - OPT Heavy Gauge Relay Harness 1 red - 12vdc input - RED / white steering column 2 pink/white - Second ign/accessory out 3 red - 12vdc input - RED / white steering column 4 orange - accessory input - orange steering column 5 purple - starter output - yellow steering column 6 pink - ignition 1 input - Primary 3 ? Door Lock 1 blue - -200ma unlock out - blue driver kickpanel 2 empty 3 green -200ma lock out - tan/pink driver kickpanel Satellite Harness not used D2D (I dont even know what this is) likely unused Bitwriter harness not used How does this look? If I want to bypass the parking brake then I'm thinking i could just ground that wire 100% of the time. Also not sure about the activation wire, ground when locked, and do I need a relay for the parking lights? Very much appreciated!

Get ready for some fun with this truck. As mentioned in your link, if the ignition wires are not properly powered, you will get engine check lights. First a few points : 1. You are using a Viper 4105V R/S unit. This unit is for atuo trans vehicles only, so we will assume that your truck has AT. 2. Does your truck have a Gray ignition key? If yes, you have a transponder chip engige immobilizer system. 3. Does your truck have the Factory Alarm system? If yes, locks and alarm are handled differently. 3. You will need additional parts to do this install properly. Here is a list :     A. If you use the (-) Parking Light wire inside the truck, you will need a relay and a resistor.     B. You will need a Directed 451M Door Lock Module for the power lock system. *     C. You will need a bypass module if you have a Gray ignition key.     D. To power all the Ignition circuits properly, you will need another relay.     E. You will need a DMM or computer safe test LED light to test wires during this install. * The beauty of using the 451M is that it comes with a nice assortment of resistors. These extra resistors can be used for the    Parking Lights, etc. The 451M cost about $9 so unless you have a couple of relays and a nice assortment of resistors laying    around, the 451M is ideal. Most of the necessary info can be found on the Bulldog Secdurity WEB site. Here is the Link : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx They even have photos and wiring diagrams for your relays. Just remember two things about their info : 1. Their info and diagrams are geared towards their products and their products' outputs and limitations. 2. They advise connecting one R/S ACC output to two vehicle ACC wires. This is a bad idea. You will use an extra relay and     do it correctly. Your choice of the 4105V will make this easier. There are some errors and changes necessary to your listing, depending on the transponder and alarm. We can get to that after your responses.Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg.. This is not exactly what I was hoping to here ;) So no I do not have a transponder key, just the old school, normal key. It is an auto trans too. So what do you think about some of those wires that I'm not sure of? Could I tap both of the 12v hots to the one large gauge red in the steering column?

Looking at the Bulldog site on teh parking lights.. it only mentions a resistor. What would the relay be for? I mean the unit doesnt try to power the parking lights through itself righat?> You're sending the signal through to the factory under hood rely I'd think..

Also.. judging by this: http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_DODGE%20RAM%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf How do I know if I'd need relays for the door locks or not?

Well, you raise some good points about using relays. Unfortunately, I can not give you a definitive answer. You could try going without the relays. It's your truck and if you encounter problems ( now or a couple of years from now ), you can make adjustments then. For me as a paid installer, I don't want to take chances or inconvenience my customers, so I go to the extra distance to insure a long term reliable installation. Anyway, the Viper's (-) door lock outputs are probably rated at 200mA. That is the total current handling capability of those outputs. There is no fuse, so overloading them can have serious consequences. For me, a $9 Directed 451M door lock module is a simple way to ensure that the R/S brain is protected and the vehicles locks work properly. For you, you can omit the relays and add the correct value resistor inline to the Vipers lock output and call it a day. It might work, I don't know, I've never tried it. If it doesn't work you can add in the relays. For me, I only get a few hours to install and test. When the customer drives away, I probably won't see the vehicle again until they need batteries for the remotes and I surely don't want him back with intermittent lock problems. The Parking Light is a MUX wire. The resistor to chassis ground is to reduce the voltage on the MUX wire to a level that gets interrupted as "turn on the Parking Lights". Some wiring info sites actually suggest a 5 wire relay setup to isolate the switch. I have found that isolation is not always necessary and the Bulldog method works fine. This is another circuit that could damage the Viper if it can not handle the current requirements. When the Viper is set to (+) Parking Light output, it is 10 Amps. I don't know exactly the rating when the jumper is set to (-), but it might be only 200mA. Another case of, give it a try and see what happens. Again, I don't have that luxury. I guess you have to decide if you want to spend the time and extra money to do it the best way possible or take some risks and possibly encounter some issues by omitting the relays.Soldering is fun!

Well I wasnt actually questioning the use of relays just because they're relays and a PITA. But more so because the bulldog pdf here: http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_DODGE%20RAM%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf Is confusing.. I'm not sure what a JBS or a KE-100 is. I did go to town this morning and pickup some battery feed wire and a trio of relays just in case. Following the bulldog page I added a 330ohm resistor to teh parking lights and tested by grounding, works like a champ. I have a relay in case things stop working but like I mentioned last night I'd worry about tossing a full 12v from one relay as the input voltage to the factory relay...wouldnt that hurt the second relay? I'm about to make teh same ground test for the door locks. If they dont operate or dont operate like they should then I have the relays I can add in.

Bulldogs diagrams are geared towards their products. They use the actual wire colors from their units and have their own relays and door modules. The closest diagram to your 4105 is the top diagram. Your 4105 does not have internal relays and the door lock outputs are a (-) 200mA pulse. The other Bulldogs units mentioned have internal relays for the lock outputs. Remeber that jumpering the vehicle wire to chassis ground through a resistor is not the same as going through the 4105's circuits. It's more like going through a relay and right to chassis ground.Soldering is fun!

Hmm well so teting the door lock/unlock the Bulldog way worked. However using the remote doesnt. I hear it's internal relay clicking twice for unlocks and once for locks. But the actuators are never energized, nor do the parking lights flash. Those tested working the bulldog way too. Now if I turn the key to on and hit lock or unlock all the lights flash. Internals, headlights and parking.

Ignore the above post. Crap... I guess I'll throw in a relay and see what happens.