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Viper 4806 install problem, 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL


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larryrm 
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Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote larryrm
I am having a problem with an install of Viper / Python (Directed) 4806 remote start on a 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL.
Everything is wired including a D2D DB3.
Voltages test correct.
PROBLEM is that the car cranks with the remote start but does not actually start.
I have tried different tach codes in Menu 3 - option 2 but none of them change the problem.
No error codes given for starting problem
Chatted with Directech several times. No help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
LarryRM
LarryM
beegbie 
Copper - Posts: 341
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Posted: July 16, 2017 at 6:01 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote beegbie
Cranking but not starting doesn't sound like a tach issue. If the truck was starting but not releasing the starter I would think tach but for this issue we should start with the immobilizer. Put the remote start in virtual tach, unplug the Db-all, then try remote starting with the key in the ignition and let us know what happens.
larryrm 
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Joined: July 15, 2017
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 7:53 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote larryrm
Beegbie.
Thanks for the reply.
I did what you suggested. Here is a summary of options tried and results...
1. Fully wired - programmed for tach or virt.tach - no key in ignition = remote cranking but no start
2. Fully wired - programmed for tach or virt.tach - key in ignition an in ON position = Remote start works
3. DB3 unplugged - programmed for virt.tach - no key in ignition = remote cranking but no start
4. DB3 unplugged - programmed for virt.tach - key in ignition an in ON position = Remote start works
My take is that the key immobilizer is not being bypassed. I have also used a DB2 unit with the same results, so it is not the DBall unit that is the issue. I have tested the wiring and it all seems to be correct and have continuity.
Other ideas?
Thank you!
Larry
LarryM
beegbie 
Copper - Posts: 341
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 1:15 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote beegbie
Great details Larry. Before we move on to whats going on with the immobilizer, I'd like to alter scenario #4. Recheck with the key in the ignition but not on. This will make sure our ignition wiring is correct and timed correctly.
larryrm 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 15, 2017
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote larryrm
Already did that.
It does not start with the key in the ignition and not in the ON position. Also does not start in the ACC position.
If I put the key in the ON position and remote start, then turn the key OFF, the engine dies.
Thanks.
LarryM
beegbie 
Copper - Posts: 341
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote beegbie
Test the black/yellow ignition wire at the ignition switch. The pink wire from your remote start should be powering this up when remote started.
larryrm 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 15, 2017
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 4:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote larryrm
tested as follows...
* continuity confirmed between DBall port along pink wire to black/yellow wire in the harness
* voltage test from DBall port to ground is 3 mV at rest jumping to 65 mV during remote start cranking.
hope this helps.
Larry
LarryM
beegbie 
Copper - Posts: 341
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 7:49 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote beegbie
It should be going to 12 volts during remote start activation. Check all three of your 12v feeds at the 8 pin connector of the 4806. The red wire (pin4) is the fused feed for the pink ignition output that should have 12 volts all the time.
larryrm 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 15, 2017
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 8:36 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote larryrm
Here are the tested voltages on the 8 pin harness...
1. Red/black wire - 12 V constant
2. n/a
3. Pink/white wire - 12 V @ pre-start
4. Red wire - 12 V constant
5. Violet wire - 12 V @ crank
6. Orange wire - 12 V @ pre-start
7. Red/white wire - 12 V constant
8. Pink wire - 3 mV at rest to 65 mV @ crank
No idea why the Pink wire is not testing 12 V before or during crank.
Ideas?
Thanks.
LarryM
beegbie 
Copper - Posts: 341
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 16, 2017 at 10:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote beegbie
It could be a bad brain but we don't see very many bad ones at all and when they do go bad, it's very rare for this part of the module to go bad. Even if it's the brain, we should be able to work around it assuming the input portion of the pink wire is working. If your able to program tach, I think it is. Can you/have you entered the options programming? If yes, instead of sending the brain back, keep the pink to the black/yellow and also put the pink/white programmed for ignition to the black/yellow also. Then just make sure the orange is powering the heater accessory and leave the radio circuit alone.
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