Avital Remote Start Install, 03 Ford F-250

Hello all! Before I dig into this I want to please beg some help out of people to confirm I've got all my wiring down. Any help or guidance is very appreciated! Thank you in advance! All also post this revised once I get it all right to help someone else out down the road. -On a 2003 F-250 XLT 4x4/ Factory door unlock/lock key fob / No alarm -With a Avital 4115L Remote start 1-Way 1 button system. I've written out everything I've gotten so far & left ???? in places I don't get. Would love someone that can confidently tell me I've gotten things right or wrong. Also using http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx for my wiring reference for my truck. Avital 4115L 1-Way Remote Engine Start Primary Harness, White 9-pin Connector 1. LIGHT GREEN BLACK    (-) 200ma Factory Alarm Disarm Output      (NOT USED) 2. GREEN/WHITE          (-) 200ma Factory Alarm Rearm Output      (NOT USED) 3. YELLOW          (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm)              (NOT USED?????) 4. WHITE/BLUE          (-) Activation input                (?????) 5. ORANGE          (-) 500ma Ground when locked/anti-grind output ?????? 6. BROWN          (-) 200ma Horn output      (Dark Blue/ Steering Column) 7. RED/WHITE           (-) 200ma Trunk Release output           (NOT USED) 8. BLACK          (-) Chassis Ground                (Any ground under dash) 9. WHITE          (+/-) Light flash Output              (+ Brown, Headlight Switch) Remote Start Harness, White 5-Pin Connector 1.BLACK/WHITE     (-) Parking Brake Input**          (CAN I OVERIDE? Mines shot./ Simply Ground this wire right? **(Connect this wire the the (-) Parking brake wire in the vehicle. The parking brake must be applied for the remote start to work.) 2.VIOLET/WHITE Tachometer Input      (?? Ignition coil wire??) 3.BROWN     (+) Brake Shutdown Input     (Light Green (+) Brake Pedal) 4.GRAY     (-) Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Input          (Supplied Switch) 5.BLUE/WHITE     (-)200ma 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output (NOT USED) Heavy Gauge Relay, White 6-Pin Connector 1.RED           (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input      (12 Constant/ Yellow (+) Ign.) 2.PINK/WHITE     (+)Second Ignition/accessory Cir. Output (NOT USED?????) 3.RED             (+)(30A) High Current 12v Input          (Constant/ Light Green Purple 4.ORANGE     (+)Accessory Output       (Not USED) 5.PURPLE     (+)Starter Output                  (Starter Wire Green) 6.PINK          (+) Ignition 1 Input/output              (White/Yellow) Satellite Harness White 4-Pin Connector (DON’T BELIEVE I USE) 1.BLUE      (-) 200ma Status Output 2.ORANGE (-) 200ma Accessory Output 3.PURPLE (-) 200ma Starter output 4.PINK   (-) 200ma Ignition Output Door Lock, White 3-Pin Connector (NOT USING) 1.LIGHT BLUE (-) 200ma Unlock Output 2.EMPTY 3.GREEN      (-) 200ma Lock Output D2D Harness, Red 4-Pin Connector (NOT USING) 1.BLUE      D2D –TX 2.BLACK (-) Ground 3.GREEN D2D – RX 4.RED      (+) 12v Bitwriter/ Directed Smartstart Harness, Black 3-Pin Connector (NOT USING) 1.RED (+) 12v 2.ORANGE ESP2 – RX/TX 3.BLACK (-) Ground

This Pictorial on your truck should help : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133810 Need some more info. Which engine? Auto or Manual transmission? Power door locks?Soldering is fun!

Trition 5.4 gas, auto transmission with tow haul button, yes it has power door locks. Thank you!

Awesome link with really useful pictures! Thank you!

Next question, does the truck have remote keyless entry ( FOB's for lock/unlock )? As you can see in the Pictorial, there are many ignition wires. While you might be able to remote start your truck with the few wires you listed above, if you want the heat / AC to work ( fans ), you must power additional wires. Another thing you should check is if your truck has the PATS ignition immobilizer system. The easy way is to see if the truck will start with a plain $1.99 hardware store key, copied from one of the working factory original keys. Or you could wrap the head area of the factory key with several layers of aluminum foil and try to start the truck. Most don't have chipped keys but it's best to test first, before install. Soldering is fun!

Wiring : Primary Harness, White 9-pin Connector 1. LIGHT GREEN BLACK    (-) 200ma Factory Alarm Disarm Output      (NOT USED) 2. GREEN/WHITE          (-) 200ma Factory Alarm Rearm Output      (NOT USED) 3. YELLOW          (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm)              (NOT USED) 4. WHITE/BLUE          (-) Activation input                ( not used ) 5. ORANGE          (-) 500ma Ground when locked/anti-grind output ( not used unless you want anti-grind ) 6. BROWN          (-) 200ma Horn output      (Dark Blue/ Steering Column) 7. RED/WHITE           (-) 200ma Trunk Release output           (NOT USED) 8. BLACK          (-) Chassis Ground                (Any ground under dash) 9. WHITE          (+/-) Light flash Output              (+ Brown, Headlight Switch) Soldering is fun!

You should grab a test light or multi-meter to check your ignition wires to determine the Starter wire, Ignition wires and the Accessory wires. They should be pretty much what's listed in the Pictorial. Here is the basics : Starter wire = +12V only when key is turned to the START position, 0 V in other positions Ignition wire = +12V when key is in ON and stays at +12V in the Start positions Accessory wire = +12V in ACC position and drops to 0 V in the START position I like to power all the ignition wires just like the key does. No surprises and the truck is happy. This will require extra relays and wiring.Soldering is fun!

Heavy Gauge Relay, White 6-Pin Connector 1.RED           (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input      (12 Constant/ Yellow#1 (+) @ Ign.) 2.PINK/WHITE     (+)Second Ignition/accessory Cir. Output    RED/BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS 3.RED             (+)(30A) High Current 12v Input          (12V Constant   Light Green/ Purple) 4.ORANGE     (+)Accessory Output       GRAY/YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS 5.PURPLE     (+)Starter Output                  (Starter Wire Green) 6.PINK          (+) Ignition 1 Input/output              (White/Yellow) Remote Start Harness, White 5-Pin Connector 1.BLACK/WHITE     (-) Parking Brake Input**          to Chassis Ground if Auto Trans ( 4115 is Auto Trans only ) 2.VIOLET/WHITE Tachometer Input      Ignition coil wire ( not Red/Light Green ) 3.BROWN     (+) Brake Shutdown Input     (Light Green (+) Brake Pedal) 4.GRAY     (-) Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Input          (Supplied Switch) 5.BLUE/WHITE     (-)200ma 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output (NOT USED) Satellite Harness White 4-Pin Connector (DON’T BELIEVE I USE) 1.BLUE      (-) 200ma Status Output       not used unless truck has PATS 2.ORANGE (-) 200ma Accessory Output     to extra realy, Pin 85 for ACC2 wire 3.PURPLE (-) 200ma Starter output     not used 4.PINK   (-) 200ma Ignition Output      not used Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for ACC2 Relay Pins 86 and 87 to Yellow #2 at ignition harness through 30 amp fuse Relay Pin 85 to Viper Orange at Pin 2 of Satellite plug Relay Pin 30 to ACC2 DARK BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSSoldering is fun!

If you don't have RKE, now would have been to time to add it. Not much of a price difference between the Viper 4115 and the 4105. You can still get some extra bang for your buck by adding the Viper 4115 Unlock while remote started feature. If your truck does not have Factory RKE, you will need another 30/40 Amp SPDT relay.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Next question, does the truck have remote keyless entry ( FOB's for lock/unlock )? As you can see in the Pictorial, there are many ignition wires. While you might be able to remote start your truck with the few wires you listed above, if you want the heat / AC to work ( fans ), you must power additional wires. Another thing you should check is if your truck has the PATS ignition immobilizer system. The easy way is to see if the truck will start with a plain $1.99 hardware store key, copied from one of the working factory original keys. Or you could wrap the head area of the factory key with several layers of aluminum foil and try to start the truck. Most don't have chipped keys but it's best to test first, before install.

Definitely does not have any chipped keys or fobs. I'm starring at a plain old metal copied key Ive used many a times to start and run it. So your saying all need to use all of the wires or add more than the Heavy Gauge Relay, White 6-Pin Connector for fans? Thank you!