Avital Remote Start Install, 03 Ford F-250

Well, easily removable in a F250 with "firm" suspension could be asking for trouble. As my by-line reads "Soldering is fun!", you can probably guess my preference. I still solder everything. My customers come back with a FOB problem ( dead batteries ) or with their next vehicle, not due to wiring problems. I'm assuming that you are thinking of a different R/S system that has more features and not considering the possibility of removing the 4115 to install in your next vehicle. The price of the 4115 is low enough to leave it in the truck and a good selling point to the next owner. If the upgrade was to a 4103 or 4105, it might be an easy plug-n-play with similar connectors and units. Anyway, here is a thought. Install this unit with all connections soldered. If you decide to upgrade, you can cut the current R/S wires at a convenient place and make a nice Western Union splice* to the new R/S wire. You would save some time because every wire is known and the previous connection to the vehicle is solid and tested. I've done it that way a few times over the years and the only downside is making some connections under the dash in difficult to reach places. While I'm still against T-Taps and Scotch Lock connections, if you purchased a high quality, profession grade crimping tool ( ~ $150+ ) you could upgrade by cutting the original R/S wires in a convenient place and then crimping spade type connectors instead of soldering Western Union splices. It would be quicker and pretty much as reliable. I have had relay harness wires with bad crimp connections from the assembly plant and I'm sure they have expensive crimping tools. Bottom line - it's your truck. Do it the way you feel most comfortable. If it has issues you are the one that is inconvenienced and has to troubleshoot and repair it. I've taken a few shortcuts and liberties on my personal vehicles over the years.    Yes, Bosch style automotive SPDT 30 Amp relays with the 5 wire harness is all you need. You can get a 5 pack of them on EBay for ~ $10. * https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_spliceSoldering is fun!

Hey Kreg, So I'm half way through install. Can you please explain what I do with the Anti-grind orange wire? Ignore? Run to relay? Thanks! Primary Harness, White 9-pin Connector 5. ORANGE     (-) 500ma Ground when locked/anti-grind output ???? STILL DONT GET?

For your application, the ORANGE     (-) 500ma Ground when locked/anti-grind output will not be used. As you noticed, there are several wires that are not used. Here is the reason : Being as you have an Avital 4115 remote start unit, it has one button remotes. The one button remotes have no ability to perform a Lock function. You can start the truck and you can Unlock the truck while it is remote started. That's it. Therefore the GWA output ( Orange wire ) can never be actuated because you can't Lock / Arm the unit. We could spend some time discussing Starter Kill but basically if the unit is locked/armed it would pervent someone from starting the engine with the key or hot-wiring the Starter wire in the ignition switch harness. You can still achieve the Anti-Grind function. Anti-Grind will prevent you from engaging the starter motor while the truck's engine is running under a remote start. All it does is open the trucks Starter wire in the steering column harness. If you remote started the engine, got in the truck, did the key take-over by inserting the key into the ignition switch and rotating it to the ON position and then went past that point to the Start position, the Anti-Grind relay circuit would prevent the Start signal from reaching the starter motor and grinding. The AntiGrind relay wiring was previously listed. Instead of using the non-functional GWA signal, it uses the unused (-) Status Output signal. This signal will always output a (-) while a remote startup is active. This signal will energize the relay during a remote start, preventing the igniton switches START signal from getting through to the starter motor.Soldering is fun!