2013 Nissan Versa with no immobilizer

Looking at the Code diagram that isn't a lock module unless you can operate the locks from a key in the door in that case the smaller module is the keyless entry, the code is the RF control unit and it should should be wired for NEG lock output,violet and violet black to ground, green/black (lock) and blue/black (unlock) to the smaller module. The idatalink unit won't do the locks use the green (lock) and blue (unlock) from the Viper directly to the original green/black and blue/black going to the smaller module and retain it.

Oh bloody heck we crossed paths again! So what's new AKA great minds etc. We just repeated each other Kreg! Almost word for word, how's that for transatlantic cooperation?

Thanks Kreg, I found that earlier and grabbed it so I can figure out how it's wired when I untape it all. If I unlock the drivers door with the key it only unlocks that door. If I use the "manual" lock button on the driver's door it locks all the doors.

While I'm doing this, a solenoid was installed so the trunk can be unlocked by pushing a button on the dash. The solenoid is grounded in the trunk so I assume the trigger is positive. The Viper trunk unlatch is -200ma. Would I need to do a low input to high output relay and then a negative to positive relay to use the viper to unlatch the trunk?

First check the switch! There may be an existing relay, NEVER ASSUME! Viper red/white to relay 85 20 amps fused 12 volt constant to 86 and 87, 30 to switch out put. 1N4004 diode across 85 and 86, band to 86. You're now seeing my point about not bothering with the idatalink part aren't you.

I should have explained better. There's a fused positive wire running directly from the fuse box to the switch and then a wire from the switch to the trunk. I'll check the trunk for a relay but I didn't see one when I looked at it previously. The green/black (lock) and blue/black (unlock) are running from the CA2051 to the smaller module so I'll wire as you instructed above. Thanks again fr all the help.

Wow, this is the "professional" shop's connection to the ignition wire on the Code system. No solder, frayed the wire they were tying into, just pathetic. I have the reciept from the install and parts and labor were over $500. I'm sure the rest of their connections will be the same.

Yuk, and wire the trunk solenoid as I explained above.

howie ll wrote: You're now seeing my point about not bothering with the idatalink part aren't you.

Yes, however my least favorite part of doing these is tying into wires at the bcm. I don't know why, it just makes me nervous and the bcm in this car is hard for me to get to. So, the iDatalink module will save me some of that. Now I'm looking at how to run my wires from the engine bay to the interior and I'm not sure how i'm going to do that. Looks like there's one large bundle of wires in a grommet I can kind of get to. Hopefully I can punch through the side of the grommet without messing anything up.

Stanley knife to cut a slit gently poke a long screwdriver through, WD-40 on the end with some your wires raped securely, that's one method. Welding rod with a hook to carry the wires is another, done a few of the Euro version, no real problems there.