the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2016 Impreza, Fortin EVO-ONE


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 22, 2017 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Sorry, no photo's of that area. The iDatalink modules I use work fine using the CAN Bus and Lock Data wires.
Here is some more info :
POWER LOCK    LT. GREEN/BLACK (-) TYPE B    in DRIVERS KICK, WHITE 28-Pin Plug, Pin 15
POWER UNLOCK    BLUE/BLACK (-) TYPE B    in DRIVERS KICK, WHITE 28-Pin Plug, Pin 16
With that info, you are looking for a White 28 Pin plug in the DKP that has those color wires at those pin
locations. Of course you must test those wires to be sure. If you don't have a computer safe LED test light
or probe, you can use a Digital Multi Meter. Set the DMM to 20V DC. Connect the Red test lead to +12V
constant and the Black test lead to the suspect wire. The meter should read 0V. When you trigger the
signal the reading should go to +12V momentarily. You might have to trigger the signal with the lock
control switch in the door, use the Factory remotes or use a key in the driver door lock cylinder to trigger
the signal. It depends on the vehicle so don't give up on a wire until you tried all three ways.
Soldering is fun!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 22, 2017 at 11:05 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
THanks for the information. I've been studying the service manual today and I think I found where it's at.
Also, thank you for hte information on how to test for it. I don't have a test light but I do have a Digital Multimeter. I read the analog ones are bad because they put some energy on the lines. I'll be sure to use my digital one.
If you don't mind me asking, the "lock data wires" that you spoke about in the first paragraph. Are those the digital connections, whereas the ones in the 28 pin harness are the analog ones? I agree, it should work over the CAN and lock wires. Last question. What happens if you get the door lock data wires on the bypass relay reversed? I ask because while I wired it up properly, another poster elsewhere said the guide was wrong and the wires should be reversed.
Thank you again for all of your help!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 22, 2017 at 11:32 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The DMM should be fine. That way of testing uses reverse logic to detect a (-) pulse.
The Data Lock wire is the one you cut at the BCM. It uses digital data on one wire to control
the locks. I would definitely try reversing the wire connections ( or just the Light Blue wire )
to see if it works. It's a digital output from the EVO-ONE and will not hurt anything. They
have had wiring diagram errors before so give it a shot. You would think that the Tech Support
person would have heard of this problem before. I spent several hours trying to get their
solution for a PTS Lexus working, never did and switched it to an iDatalink module. A week
later they changed their guides to reflect that Enform equipped Lexus vehicles were not supported.
It happens....
Soldering is fun!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 24, 2017 at 6:29 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
Hi!
I'm still trying to get the doors to open on the aftermarket keyfob while the remote start is running. I'm trying to get this going on a 2016 Subaru Impreza Standard Key.
The company wanted me to write it into the Negative Lock and Unlock on the vehicle. The EVO-ONE's output for the lock/unlock (-) is 750ma. I did and unfortunately, still nothing.
I started looking at the ADL-AL manual and they are showing that you should use a relay. The Evo-One doesn't talk about a relay and the customer service rep didn't mention it.
Does anybody know if you need a relay? Do you know how to test if an EVO-One requires a relay, and how to possibly test that a signal is getting outputted on the door lock/unlock from the evo?
Thanks!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 24, 2017 at 7:19 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The iDatalink ADS AL-CA w/DL-SUB3 firmware needs an external relay to open the cut Door Data wire. The ADS AL-CA only has one built in relay and that one is being used for the IMMO wire. The EVO-ONE (and EVO-ALL) has 2 built-in relays and can handle the cut Door Data wire directly.
If you are on the Impreza's door lock and unlock wires, the (-) 750mA outputs from the EVO-ONE should be able to make the locks work.
Did you try reversing the Door Lock Data wires?
Soldering is fun!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 24, 2017 at 7:50 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
kreg357 wrote:
Did you try reversing the Door Lock Data wires?
Yup, I did try that and it didn't work. I'm thinking that the EVO-ONE isn't outputting the door lock data for some reason while the remote start is running. I'm not sure why, and I'm not sure how to test it. If I could test it on the EVO-ONE, I'd be a little happier.   
The company wanted me to try the analog door lock wires, which I did, but it still didn't work. This is why I was wondering if I needed a relay. The ADS shows a relay but the EVO doesn't, and Fortin didn't say anything about putting a relay in. It now sounds like I don't need a relay, saving me 10 bucks. (Thank You)
Where I'm at with it is I'm not positive the door output is getting sent out of the EVO, and the company is now telling me to bring it into an authorized installer for them to look at it. I don't want to go that route because it's far away, I'm pretty comfortable with electronics, I've done this much so far, and I'm not sure how much it'll cost for them to look over things.
Thanks!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 24, 2017 at 6:36 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
While it is not always a perfect test because it does not verify the current handling capabilities of the R/S output, you can verify that at least the EVO-ONE is outputting the analog Lock and Unlock pulses with a Digital Multimeter. Here is the setup : Set DMM to 20V DC, Connect the Red test lead to +12V Constant and the Black test lead to the Lock Output wire. The DMM should read 0V. Press the R/S Lock button. You should see the Parking Lights flash and the DMM go to +12V momentarily. The typical output is usually around 1 second. A computer safe LED test light/probe would show this Lock output pulse better. Repeat the test for the Unlock wire.
Soldering is fun!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 25, 2017 at 7:39 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
kreg357 wrote:
While it is not always a perfect test because it does not verify the current handling capabilities of the R/S output, you can verify that at least the EVO-ONE is outputting the analog Lock and Unlock pulses with a Digital Multimeter. Here is the setup : Set DMM to 20V DC, Connect the Red test lead to +12V Constant and the Black test lead to the Lock Output wire. The DMM should read 0V. Press the R/S Lock button. You should see the Parking Lights flash and the DMM go to +12V momentarily. The typical output is usually around 1 second. A computer safe LED test light/probe would show this Lock output pulse better. Repeat the test for the Unlock wire.
Thank you for this information. I saw you explained this the other day to me when you were helping me hunt (verify) down my lock/unlock wires. I actually did do this test and it worked on the car side. I thought that since it worked on the car side, it should work on the evo side too. I did the same thing and unfortunately, I saw nothing. While I'm not an expert, it sounds like it's either not outputting that door lock/unlock, maybe it's outputting that signal for too short, or maybe it's not a strong enough signal.
Since I'm on my own here, is there anything else that I can do? See if a relay works? Just live with it as it is?
Thanks!!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 25, 2017 at 12:29 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
While I'm sure the Fortin Tesch Support asked these questions...
Is Option C1 set to ON?
Do you have the THAR-SUB1 Pink wire also connected to EVO-ALL Pink wire at A1?
As for going direct from the EVO-ONE to the vehicles analog wires, I'm assuming that
Fortin Tech Support had you connect the EVO-ONE Purple wire at A2 to the Lock wire
and the Purple/White wire at A3 to the Unlock wire?
And from your updates this did not work?
And that you used your DMM to test those EVO-ONE wires and that there was no (-) pulse
output?   
I'm not able to check the actual wire programming inside the EVO-ONE and it's flashed
firmware so it's possible that these lock outputs are not setup and functional.
OK, does the Power Lift Gate control from the EVO-ONE remotes work? If yes, you could
disconnect that wire from the Brown/White wire at the lift gate switch and connect it to
the vehicles analog Unlock wire. Now when you press the EVO-ONE remote to actuate the lift
gate it will unlock the doors. That will prove that your have the right vehicle Unlock wire
and that the EVO-ONE can control it.
Your options are somewhat limited. The EVO-ONE and it's wire outputs are pretty much all
controlled by the firmware flashed on the module. It would be nice to have a spare EVO-ONE
to try.
Soldering is fun!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 25, 2017 at 12:44 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
Thank you so much for your information. I'm a DIY installer but have done numerous car radio installs, amps, home wiring projects, etc... Many people rave about Fortin's support, and while they've been helpful, I feel like they don't really help much for the home installer group. I can partly understand it because I'm sure many have screwed things up, but just tell me the information please.
And part of me has that unhelped feeling just because Fortin wasn't really telling me all that much. They never ran through install options with me, never asked a lot of questions...just really hook these wires up and see what happens. This is why I came here.
I checked and C1 is turned on. On the T-Harness, I did wire up A1 to the pink wire. I also wired it up from A2/A3 to the lock and unlock wires on the car. I also checked the A2 and A3 outputs and saw there was no pulse, whereas there was one with the car.
If I get enough time today, I might go out and change the unlock pulse to something like 2.5 seconds and check again. I think the default is .25seconds and my DMM may not have picked it up.
And I agree with you on the firmware. I would hope support wouldn't tell me to hook it up if it was disabled in the firmware.
Oh, and the other weird thing. The idatalink instructions show you connecting the unlock/lock to a relay and then to pin 11 on the BCU side. The Fortin instructions say wire it directly to pin 11 and shows a "~" instead of (-). This makes me wonder if Fortin is transmitting data instead of a (-) output, like the idatalink does, if that makes sense. Like Fortin thinks is a data connection but it's really an analog connection on pin 11 on the BCU.
Thank you very much for your help and information.
Page of 3

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, March 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer