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Remote Start, Engine Dies After 15-20 seconds


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davep. 
Gold - Posts: 639
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 02, 2018 at 4:44 PM / IP Logged  
I would connect a switched in IGN only wire to the "I" terminal on the CS 130 and disconnect the "L" wire. The I terminal does not require resistance, and will turn on the alternator just like the L terminal does. Neither I or L of a CS130 will back-feed the ignition circuit like the original 84 alternators did, so you can connect the I terminal directly to say, the pink wire on the ignition coil.
84elky 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2018
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: July 02, 2018 at 4:57 PM / IP Logged  
davep. wrote:
I agree, the alternator is not turning on.
IIRC, the brown wire at the ignition switch has to be powered to turn on the alternator. (They use the ACCY circuit and not IGN for the alternator because when the alternator is running, it back-feeds its excite wire, and if excite is connected to the pink ignition circuit, the engine won't turn off. The pink and brown circuits are separate, that's why the used the brown wire for the older cars.)
UPDATE---
Davep, you are again correct about brown wire being accessory. Finally tore under-dash apart and probed. There is also an orange wire per the wiring diagram, but it is NOT accessory. It's only hot during run and appears to power the AC blower, etc. And please disregard my blather about a separate relay for "L" wire. I totally read past what you posted about wiring brown.
Will be attaching brown to remote start accessory tomorrow and will report findings.
Again, thanks for the help and insight!
84elky 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2018
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: July 02, 2018 at 11:41 PM / IP Logged  
davep. wrote:
I would connect a switched in IGN only wire to the "I" terminal on the CS 130 and disconnect the "L" wire. The I terminal does not require resistance, and will turn on the alternator just like the L terminal does. Neither I or L of a CS130 will back-feed the ignition circuit like the original 84 alternators did, so you can connect the I terminal directly to say, the pink wire on the ignition coil.
My alternator is PFLS so have no "I" terminal. Not sure I understand.
84elky 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2018
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: July 03, 2018 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged  
SOLVED!!! Thanks to all who contributed, and especially davep for his wiring guidance.
Solution: Orange ignition switch wire to Orange Viper ACCY Output
This agrees with the wiring diagrams posted above which show a brown/white wire splitting off the orange wire (both hot in run only), which attaches to the "L" post of the factory generator. Brown/white must come out of the harness somewhere behind the instrument panel which I can't see.
Independently tried Brown ignition switch to Viper Orange, but strangely had no alternator output after remote start regardless of key position (off or run). No clue why but matters not. Orange works so Brown not used.
Again, thanks to all! And just thinking--how were issues like this resolved before the internet and people willing to help others?
PS for sparky ---
Located tach wire under dash. Verified it is tach wire with continuity test of under dash wire to tach post on coil. Connected to Viper Violet/White Tach wire and changed Viper Menu 3, Feature 2 to Option 4=Tachometer. Engine tries to start, actually firing before the 0.6 sec cranking time ends but immediately dies every time. This was after attempting to "learn" the tach signal:
... Start with key
... Within 5 secs, press valet switch and hold
... After 3 seconds valet LED should light
... Release switch
Do the above and never see light. Nothing.
While it's a mute point because Virtual Tach is working perfectly every time, I'm curious why Tach wire start is failing if anyone has ideas.
Thanks again!
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: July 03, 2018 at 2:37 PM / IP Logged  
I'm glad you got it going. I don't know what wire you connected to for tach inside but it may not be correct. On older vehicles like yours, I always run a wire under the hood for tach. Virtual tach works on many vehicles but is better suited for modern engines. There are still newer vehicles which aren't compatible with it such as Hyundai and Kia. If it starts and runs, leave it. It you find at times it has problems starting, then run a wire under hood to negative side of coil or tach output from distributor. The tach wire should measure between 1 and 9 volts AC and increase with engine RPM.
sparky
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