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2008 Chrysler 300, Prestige APS787E


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antman1 
Copper - Posts: 121
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 13, 2012
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: January 26, 2019 at 9:10 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote antman1
would anyone be able to assist me? I need to figure out this install, my friend changed to having me install this in his 2008 Chrysler 300. I have been looking at this Transponder bypass "Directed Electronics DEI EXPRESSKIT CHALL BYPASS MODULE (FOR CHRYSLER)" Here is the manual for the alarm: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/806483/Prestige-Aps-787e.html
I will be installing it in a 2008 Chrysler 300. Please help me figure this out. I really appreciate it..
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,575
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 26, 2019 at 9:56 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Being as you have a Chrysler vehicle that uses the iDatalink default CH4 firmware,
I think I would go with an ADS AL-CA or FLCAN bypass module. As mentioned, they
come from the factory flashed with the needed CH4 firmware. The CH4 firmware is
the correct firmware for your Chrysler 300. The iDatalink bypass module are rock
solid and can go D2D with your chosen R/S unit. The Prestige APS 787E default
D2D protocol is DBI and that is the D2D protocol on the FLCAN bypass module. If
you get the ADS AL-CA module, you will have to make one programming change on the
APS787E to support the needed ADS D2D protocol. Programming the APS units is
pretty easy with the remotes.
Here is a link to the FLCAN with CH4 firmware install guide for your 300 :
http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-CH4/DBI-AL(DL)-CH4-EN_20180425.pdf
The chart on Page 2 indicates the supported features. You would follow the Type 2
install diagram. While it looks complicated, it's not. In D2D mode all of the dashed
Red connections are made via the D2D connection. The relay isn't needed because you
would be getting a current production FLCAN module that has a H/W version of 1.24 or
better. You would need a 5 amp fuse and a 1N4001 diode. The fuse holder could be one
from the APS787E because you could combine the two +12V input wires into one, with one
fuse, and use the other for the 5 amp IGN line. You could do the bypass module to R/S
connections on the bench. Aside from the 5 vehicle connections shown on the Type 2
diagram, you would need both power and ground to the APS 787E and a hood pin.
Soldering is fun!
antman1 
Copper - Posts: 121
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 13, 2012
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: January 26, 2019 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote antman1
Is this the bypass you are talking about? What would I ask the seller to insure it is flashed to the right firmware?
https://rover./rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113539405765
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,575
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 9:44 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
For some reason I can't get the link to work. There are several online sources for that bypass module. EBay, Amazon, Crutchfield and Sonic Electronics come to mind. Pretty sure the default firmware loaded at the factory will be fine, as long as has never been opened / used. For the FLCAN its FLC AL(DL) CH4 and on the ADS AL-CA its ADS AL(DL) CH4.
Soldering is fun!
antman1 
Copper - Posts: 121
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 13, 2012
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote antman1
This link work?
https://www./itm/IDATALINK-ADS-AL-CA-IMMOBILIZER-BYPASS-MODULE-DOORLOCK-CANBUS-INTERFACE/113539405765
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,575
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 6:02 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
While the link didn't work, the "113539405765" is an eBay item number that is exactly what you want.
In the auction, the item picture shows the current H/W version number and the correct firmware. You
will have to change the APS787E programming, Feature 18 to Option 2 to support D2D to this bypass module.
Soldering is fun!
antman1 
Copper - Posts: 121
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 13, 2012
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 7:40 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote antman1
Here is what I have so far...
Prestige APS787E Wiring draft for 2008 Chrysler 300 w/IDATALINK ADS-AL-CA IMMOBILIZER BYPASS MODULE DOORLOCK & CANBUS INTERFACE
22 Pin Main Wiring Harness #1124300:
1.)     Green/White – Dome Light Output (-): N/C
2.)     LT. Blue – Ground While Running Output (-): idatalink (Blue/White)
3.)     Black/White – Horn Output (-): N/C
4.)     Purple – (+) Door Trigger Input: N/C
5.)     Brown/Black – (+) Inhibit/Shutdown To Brake Switch: idatalink (Orange)
6.)     DK. Blue/Black – External Remote Start Trigger input (-): N/C
7.)     Orange/Black – (-) Parking Brake Input: idatalink (Green)
8.)     Green/Yellow – Glow Plug Input: idatalink (Pink/Black)
9.)     Brown – (-) Door Trigger Input: idatalink (Yellow/Black)
10.)     Green/Orange – Tachometer input: idatalink (Purple/White)
11.)     DK. Green - (-) Instant Trigger Input: N/C
12.)     DK. Blue – Channel 3 Trunk Release Output (-): N/C
13.)     Green/Black – Channel 4 Output (-): N/C
14.)     DK. Blue/Red – Channel 7 Output (-): N/C
15.)     Black/LT. Green – Pulse After Start Output (-): N/C
16.)     Black/Blue – Pulse Before Start Output (-): N/C
17.)     Black/Red – Pulse After Shut Down Output (-): N/C
18.)     Black/Yellow – Pulse During Crank Output (-):N/C
19.)     LT. Blue/Black – Channel 6 Output (-): N/C
20.)     LT. Blue/Green – Channel 5 Output (-): N/C
21.)     Gray/Black – (-) Inhibit/Shutdown to Hood Switch: Optional Add Later
22.)     Orange – Starter Inhibit Relay Control (-): N/C
    
8 Pin Power/Starter Harness # 1124299 – NOT SURE IF STARTER WIRES NEEDED WITH IDATALINK??
1.)     Blue – Ignition 1 (+) : PINK/WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
2.)     Red/White – Batter 1 – 12v (+): LIGHT BLUE/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
3.)     Green – Ignition 2 (+) : N/C
4.)     Pink – Ignition 3 Common Contact : N/C
5.)     Purple – Accessory (+) : NOT SURE??
6.)     Red – Battery 2 – 12v (+): N/C
7.)     Yellow – Starter Output : PINK/DARK GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
8.)     Red/Black – Ignition 3 Normally Open Contact : N/C
4 Pin 2nd Main Harness #1124301:
1.)     Black – Chassis Ground
2.)     White/Red – Parking Light Relay Input
3.)     White/Black – (+) Siren Output
4.)     White – Parking Light Relay Output: idatalink (white)
3 Pin Door Lock Output Harness #1122906
1.)     Red – (-) Door Lock Output : idatalink (Green/Black)
2.)     Green – (-) Door Unlock Output: idatalink (Blue/Black)
3.)     Red/Black – (-) 2nd Door Unlock Output : N/C
4 Pin Shock Sensor Harness #1122591
1.)     Blue – Predetect
2.)     Green – Full Trigger
3.)     Black – Chassis Ground
4.)     Red - + 12 Volts
6 Pin Antenna Harness #1124296
1.)     Red - +5 VDC
2.)     Green – Rx
3.)     Black – Ground
4.)     Gray – Valet Enable
5.)     Blue – LED Cathode
6.)     NC
iDATALINK MODULE
To Be continued. Not sure on rest or wiring and what relays or diodes or resisters will be needed with idatalink…. Any help mucho appreciated.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,575
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Looks pretty good. Here are some corrections and additions.
You are going W2W with the manual wire connections between the APS787E and the ADS AL-CA,
so you must set the ADS AL-CA to Standard Hardwired Mode prior to vehicle programming.
No parking light relay needed with ADS AL-CA H/W Ver 1.24.
1.)     Green/White – Dome Light Output (-):       N/C
2.)     LT. Blue – Ground While Running Output (-):            idatalink (Blue/White)
3.)     Black/White – Horn Output (-):     N/C
4.)     Purple – (+) Door Trigger Input:    N/C
5.)     Brown/Black – (+) Inhibit/Shutdown To Brake Switch:            idatalink (Orange)
6.)     DK. Blue/Black – External Remote Start Trigger input (-):   N/C
7.)     Orange/Black – (-) Parking Brake Input:   Not needed, turbo timer only idatalink (Green)
8.)     Green/Yellow – Glow Plug Input: Not needed - not Diesel idatalink (Pink/Black)
9.)     Brown – (-) Door Trigger Input:       idatalink (Yellow/Black)
10.)     Green/Orange – Tachometer input:              idatalink (Purple/White)
11.)     DK. Green - (-) Instant Trigger Input:           Trunk pin input iData Yellow/Red
12.)     DK. Blue – Channel 3 Trunk Release Output (-):       iData Red/White
13.)     Green/Black – Channel 4 Output (-):          N/C
14.)     DK. Blue/Red – Channel 7 Output (-):           N/C
15.)     Black/LT. Green – Pulse After Start Output (-):      N/C
16.)     Black/Blue – Pulse Before Start Output (-):             iData Brown
17.)     Black/Red – Pulse After Shut Down Output (-):       N/C
18.)     Black/Yellow – Pulse During Crank Output (-):          N/C
19.)     LT. Blue/Black – Channel 6 Output (-):        N/C
20.)     LT. Blue/Green – Channel 5 Output (-):        N/C
21.)     Gray/Black – (-) Inhibit/Shutdown to Hood Switch:   use mercury switch
22.)     Orange – Starter Inhibit Relay Control (-):   N/C
1 Blue Ignition 1 (+)    follow iData diagram, 5 A fuse, 1N4001 diode, etc
2 Red/White Battery 1 -    12V (+)        Combine with Pin 6 Red, fuse down to 20 Amps
3 Green Ignition 2 (+) not used
4 Pink Ignition 3 Common Contact       not used
5 Purple Accessory (+)              not used
6 Red Battery 2 -    12V (+)     combined with Red/White Pin 2 to Red/White in Passenger Kick Panel
7 Yellow Starter Output           to iData Black/White
8 Red/Black Ignition 3 Normally Open Contact            not used
4 Pin 2nd Main Harness #1124301:
1.)     Black – Chassis Ground        chassis ground
2.)     White/Red – Parking Light Relay Input           to thick Red/White Pin 2 main ign harness
3.)     White/Black – (+) Siren Output          siren
4.)     White – Parking Light Relay Output:idatalink (white)
3 Pin Door Lock Output Harness #1122906
1.)     Red – (-) Door Lock Output : idatalink (Green/Black)
2.)     Green – (-) Door Unlock Output:           idatalink (Blue/Black)
3.)     Red/Black – (-) 2nd Door Unlock Output : N/C
Soldering is fun!
antman1 
Copper - Posts: 121
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 13, 2012
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 11:52 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote antman1
Thank you, I'll keep you posted on how it goes and try to post pictures. 😎
antman1 
Copper - Posts: 121
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 13, 2012
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: February 05, 2019 at 1:35 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote antman1
I'm doing my vehicle prep wiring for the alarm right now and I'm noticing a few things that I have some questions about on the relay numbers 85 and 87 I'm not sure which wire goes on those?
On the idata the wires black/white , green, purple/yellow and purple/black are they not used on this install?
The white/red wire on the APS787E is confusing. Is it going to connect to 85 on the relay?
also I'm a little confused on how the unit is going to connect to the onboard computer of the car?
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