Avital 4105 Install/Troubleshooting, Nissan NV 3500

Hi All - I have an IT/low voltage background. I have installed many stereo systems, starters, alternators, emergency vehicle sirens and lights. In other words, I felt comfortable trying to install my own remote start. The vehicle is a 2016 Nissan NV 3500, standard key. I had a new in box Avital 4105 sitting around for a couple of years, so I figured I would use that. I purchased an iData Alca, and the smartphone link to program the alca. Everything is mostly wired up (to-do: hood pin, light flash, brake shutdown). I followed the steps provided by iData to program the key for the bypass. I am not sure where to begin the troubleshooting process. Here is what happens: 1) When initiating the remote start, the brain will click, the dash lights up, but the engine does not turn over. I figured it has something to do with the key not being properly programmed, so I placed my key on the transponder (the transponder is completely exposed because I removed all of the covering around it). Sometimes, this will remote start the vehicle, but NOT always. 2) I assume this is an unrelated wiring issue, but I will list it, just in case: the lock/unlock on the Avital remote WILL make the brain click. However, the unlock function does not work at all. The lock function sometimes will work, but not always. Even when the lock does not work, the brain still clicks. I hope I was sufficiently clear. I really appreciate you taking the time to read this post, and thank you in advance!

A few questions : Are you going D2D between the 4105 and the ADS AL-CA? ( using 4 Pin D2D cable and not hardwiring the inter-connections.) Did you flash the ADS AL-CA with the ADS or DBI flavor of NI4 firmware? You can use either flavor if going W2W but must use DBI if going D2D. When programming the ADS AL-CA to the van, did you first set the Installation Mode to the proper mode ( Standard or Data ) ? The ADS AL-CA will provide the van Brake signal, so no need for a manual connection to the van. The Lock / Unlock issue seems separate. You might want to double check your 4105 Chassis Ground connection. If would probably help us if you listed all your wire connections.Soldering is fun!

Thank you very much for your response. I originally wanted to use D2D, but a mechanic friend of mine claimed iData and Directed would not work in data mode. I did not really believe him, but I figured I would play it safe. So, it is wire to wire. I flashed with ADS. When I programmed for the van, I set it two flashes (standard). I then put my key in the ignition, turned to 'on', waited for the led to solid green for two seconds, and removed the key. Regarding wiring, I should post each wire connection? Thank you again!

Your friend was wrong. If you flashed it with the DBI flavor of NI4, D2D would work fine. But going W2W will always work best. Especially with Data Tach and Brake having occasional issues with some DEI R/S models. My initial thought was you flashed it with ADS and went D2D. That would have accounted for the R/S issues. Being as you went W2W, those same R/S issues could come from using the wrong signal for the ADS AL-CA GWR input. Due to the different terminology used by DEI, their GWR signal is called (-) Status Output. So the 4105's Dark Blue (-) Status Output wire should be connected to the ADS AL-CA's Blue/White GWR Input wire. ( As a side note, you can also use the 4105's Blue/White (-) Second Status Output wire for GWR if you don't need it for the Defrost function and don't change the factory default programming on that wire.) While it is a bit of work to list out your wire connections, it will be the quickest way to assist you. Going W2W is fine with the ADS firmware and your programming steps were correct. The module should be properly bypassing the trucks transponder system. Being as the 4105 has no alarm capability, there will no need to use the Door, Trunk, or EBrake Status signals, nor the Trunk Release wire. Remember that the Hood Status output will only be available if the NV has a Factory Alarm system and a hood pin switch. This will reduce the number of 4105 to ADS AL-CA inter-connections. Here is a plug list for the 4105 to further simplify making a wiring chart for your install : Avital 4105 H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM H1/2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT H1/8 BLACK GROUND H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT 4-pin satellite harness diagram 1 BLUE    (-) STATUS OUTPUT 2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT 3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT 4 PINK    (-) IGNITION OUTPUT Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram 6 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT 5 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT 4 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT 3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT 2 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION 1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT Soldering is fun!

I am not by my vehicle now, so I cannot post the wire-outs. Hopefully, later today I will do that. In the mean time, a quick reply: There was nothing labeled GWR in the Avital schematics. I just grounded out the GWR. Is that perhaps the cause of my issues? I need to ensure the GWR from the AL-CA (blue/white) is going to Status Output (dark blue) on the Avital? Also, my mechanic-friend (professionally he is a mechanic, but does many of these installs) said that I do not need the 4-pin satellite harness. Was he wrong about that as well? Thank you again for all of your time and help!

Yes, you definitely need the 4105 Blue Status out going to the ADS AL-CA GWR wire. This signal tells the bypass module that a R/S is about to happen and to turn on the transponder bypass function. For your install the 4 pin satellite harness is not needed. You can power the NV ACC2 wire with the Pink/White wire after programming it to Accesory.Soldering is fun!

Below is my wire2wire connections: H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM - not used H1/2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM - not used H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) - not used H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT - not used H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED - not used H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - not yet connected H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - not used H1/8 BLACK GROUND - grounded to vehicle H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH - not yet connected H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - grounded to vehicle H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE - al/ca - tach (ac) output - purple/white H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - al-ca - brake status (+) output - green/red H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - not yet connected H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - not used 4-pin satellite harness diagram - not used 1 BLUE    (-) STATUS OUTPUT 2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT 3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT 4 PINK    (-) IGNITION OUTPUT Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram 6 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - vehicle ignition harness - blue 5 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT - vehicle ignition harness - yellow 4 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT - not yet connected 3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT - vehicle ignition harness - green 2 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - not used 1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - vehicle ignition harness - green Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT - vehicle unlock 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT - vehicle lock Additionally, the al-ca also has these connections: 1) Immobilizer data vehicle side (white/black) - I cut pin 4 and connected the side that goes to the vehicle 2) Immobilizer data connector side (white/red) - the cut wire from above that goes to the connector 3) Ignition (+) input (pink) - connected to vehicle ignition harness (blue) along with Avital heavy gauge output to primary ignition circuit (pink) 4) Ground (-) input (blue/red) - grounded to vehicle 5) CanH (brown/red) - vehicle OBD pin 6 6) CanL (brown/yellow) - vehicle OBD pin 14 7) Immobilizer data (orange/black) - connected with Immobilizer data vehicle side (number 1 above) which goes to cut pin 4 on Immobilizer Hopefully I was able to write this clearly. Regarding GWR (discussed in your post above), the only Status Output I see is on the Satellite Harness, which I was not using. Is that the correct wire? To confirm that wire should be connected to GWR (-) input - blue/white on the al-ca. The wires should NOT be connected to a vehicle ground. Is that correct? Thank you again!

Correct on the Blue Status Output wire. It should be connected to the ADS AL-CA GWR wire. If you don't want to use the 4 pin Satellite harness and you don't want or need to use the Rear Defrost feature, you can use the Blue/White Second Status wire as the GWR output wire. You definitely want the ACC1 wire powered so that the vehicles Heater will work. Might also need to power the ACC2 wire with the 4105 Pink/White, too. Are you running in Tach Mode? Did the Tach learn complete successfully? You might try a double Unlock pulse to see if that gets unlock working. That's a 4105 programming option. Also test to verify you have the correct wire by putting a DMM on it and turning a key in the drivers door lock cylinder to unlock. Should show a ground. Soldering is fun!

Before I reply to your most recent post, let me say this: I feel like a fool now: For some reason, I had in my head that I needed to double press the * to do a remote start. I realized that I only needed to press once. Remote start is now working (with my original configuration above, i.e. gwr (blue/white) and 4105's ground (black) and neutral safety switch input (black/white) all connected to vehicle ground. Satellite Harness is not used, and status/rear defrogger (blue/white) is not connected (I actually cut it). It starts up every time, but brake shutoff does not work. When I remove the al-ca gwr (blue/white) from vehicle ground and connect it to satellite harness (-) 200ma status output (blue) (as you instructed above), remote start still works, but brake shutoff does not. I don't understand why it works in both configurations, but currently I am leaving it as you told me to. Regarding tach learning, I followed the procedure as outlined in the 4105 installation. Everything seemed like it worked (LEDs blinked when they were supposed to). Regarding the unlock, I tried the double pulse, to no avail. I have not tried the other suggestions yet. I noticed in the programming of the al-ca the option for the factory remote to work with lock-lock-lock. I set that option, but it does not work. This would bypass the Avital remote unlock issue. Is the factory remote an option, or not worth the trouble? Thank you!

Oh, and regarding accessory: I definitely want that connected, I am just battling with my ignition harness. I was able to get to 3 out of the 4 wires, but I cannot seem to expose enough of the harness to properly strip and splice. As it is, I can barely get my knife in there, let alone a splicer/stripper and soldering iron. I had to tape everything. It is looking like I might need to take off the entire plastic underneath the gauges...