Avital 4105 Install/Troubleshooting, Nissan NV 3500

It is possible that there is a problem with your 4105 and its' lock outputs. A few thoughts... The proper way to test for a (-) signal in a normal +12 volt vehicle with a Digital Multimeter is as follows. Set DMM to 20 volts DC range Connect Red test lead to +12 volt constant source Connect Black test lead to suspect wire When the (-) signal is present, the DMM will show +12 volts. Kind of inverse logic but it works. As a test, find that vehicle lock wire I mentioned previously that came from the Drivers door lock cylinder. Connect the DMM and watch it while you insert a key and turn & hold it in the lock position. The DMM should go from 0 volts to 12 volts with the key turn. The other lock and unlock wires should do the same thing when triggered by either a door switch button or remote command. You can also use the DMM to test the 4105s' outputs.   If you think they are bad you could use the 4105 Arm or Disarm wires as a test. Even the 4105s' (-) Trunk Release is a possible test to see if the vehicles wires are correct and working. Remember that the 4105 clicking with a lock or unlock command is its' internal Parking Light relay. Soldering is fun!

According to the 4105 Install Guide, with Menu 1 Feature 1 programmed to anything other than Option 1, the horn should beep once for Lock. twice for Unlock and if you press and hold the Lock button for >2 seconds and trigger Panic Mode, it will beep for 30 seconds unless aborted with a press of the Unlock button. I don't have a photo of the Parking Light wire. Pretty sure it is in a White 4 Pin connector in the Drivers Kick Panel area.   It could be behind the other connectors in your photo or up high. Stay away from the Yellow connectors, they are for the air bags. That White 4 Pin connector might have an Orange wire in it for the Reverse Lights, too. Does your van have the Factory Alarm System? If yes, then you will have to use the Light Blue and Yellow alarm wires mentioned previously. They can be found at the BCM in a White 40 Pin plug at Pins 7 and 8. Using the DMM you can test for these (-) signals using a key in the Driver Door lock cylinder. The BCM is behind the instrument cluster.Soldering is fun!

aharonhakohen wrote: Regarding, lock/unlock, I am at my wit's end. What I have tested: 1) On Fortin's website it lists light blue and yellow, as lock and unlock, respectively. On wirecolor.com, it shows gray and red as lock and unlock

I’m seeing (lock/arm) as GRAY at position 8 and (unlock/disarm) and WHITE at position 7 in the 40 pin BCM when looking at the AL-CA wiring chart. I’m not sure where Fortin is involved, I found this at idatalink.com. Like kreg357 said use the DMM and test for negative signal when turning driver door key. Here’s the install guide I was referencing. AL-CA Install GuideSteve G

aharonhakohen wrote: Is the factory remote an option, or not worth the trouble?

That could be accomplished once you verify that you have the correct lock wire. You could connect the Avital H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT to the (-) lock wire of the Nissan. Then you would need to program the Avital input in Menu 2 at option 5 for 3 pulses as the default is 1 pulse which you don’t want. Steve G

As Steve points out, wiring guide info can be misleading. It looks like this vehicle might require some extra testing to get the locks to work. Even iDatalink is providing some possibly conflicting info. While the install guide for the ADS AL-CA shows the locks as Gray and White, their guide for the HC series units shows different info. Going by the ADS-RSA-NI4K-[HC3452A] install guide for the NV3500, provides this info from Page 239 : The Light Blue and Yellow wire info matches with the Bulldog, Omega and even DEI's DS4+ info for the Lock/Arm and Unlock/Disarm wires coming from the drivers door lock cylinder. These conflicts might be due to model year or NV1500/NV2500/NV3500 body styles. The good news is that they appear consistent with BCM, White 40 Pin connector and Pins 7 & 8. Even the BCM location varies from "behind the instrument cluster" to "upper driver kick panel" area.    Soldering is fun!

Yes I think I may have found what you were referring to when you said Fortin. I see they list yellow and Lt Blue also. They show the photos that seem similar to your posted pics. Steve G

aharonhakohen wrote: Whoops, forgot the pictures...

Looks like Fortin indicates that one of those red wires you have in your photo should have the + parking light wire. Steve G

Thank you everyone for the very helpful information above. I just wanted to post to say thank you, and I will hopefully get some time to work on the van, and update the post.

Above are two pictures (both sides) of my 40-pin BCM connector. I was so intent on using Fortin and Wirecolor for my wire locations (they are much more comprehensive than iData), that I completely forgot about iData's chart that shows CanH, CanL, Immobilizer clock, Immobilizer data, Lock/Arm, Unlock/Disarm. Thank you iskidoo for reminding me. However, the colors do not seem to match up with iData's install guide (as you can see in the picture). They do match up with Wirecolor. However, Wirecolor does not show the lock/unlock wire positions on the BCM connector. It does show pin 26 is Security LED, which should be cut. Is that applicable to my install? I am getting ready to test the wires as kreg357 instructed. Does anyone see anything that I am missing? Thank you again!

Seems visually that you’ve confirmed yellow and lt blue at positions 7 & 8 so I guess just verify function with The DMM and you should have lock and unlock squared away. What else are you wondering about?Steve G