2008 Hummer H3, ADS AL-CA

Thanks again for the response....yep, talking about the r/s module, was just curious as to whether anyone had come across something with Directed stuff to recover from a "stuck" brain! Will try your suggestion re the ground on the ALCA and report back, Al

RESETTING THE MODULE WARNING! By resetting the module, all programmed values are erased i.e.: tach, transmitter as well as programming options. The programming options are returned to their default values. 1. Enter programming Mode (page 3). 2. Once having reached the programming mode, quickly press and release the brake pedal until the parking lights flash 8 times.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Got it Jeff, thanks.....problem is with the brain stuck the way it is I can certainly get into programming mode with flashing the hoodpin (led on solid for 20 sec.) but it won't acknowledge any input from the brake pedal so no 8 flashes. The transmitter pairing/programming part is what it seems to be stuck on, with this unit it requires pushing the antenna button once, then holding until the led begins to flash rapidly.....release, then go through the process of pairing the transmitters and finally one final push on the button to exit pairing. It's this part of the programming that it's stuck in....won't acknowledge anything except going into/out of hoodpin programming, or into valet mode....Al

Did you confirm that the brake HOT side still has power ? Do you have power at the brake switch when pressed ? If all else fails, just jumper a wire from (+) to the brake input wire on the AS unit until you hear the module click.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Managed to get the r/s module functioning again. I'm not entirely sure how this was achieved in all honesty, but I think Jeff called it with having me check for intermittent 12v feed at the brake pedal (hot side & switch)…...thanks Jeff! Still, after this, not able to get the engine to crank...kreg had mentioned re-locating the ALCA ground to the Passlock ground reference wire but I'm having trouble locating exactly where that wire would be. The passlock harness only has 5 wires, none of which are ground.....can anyone point me in the direction of where the Passlock ground reference wire may be? Al

I'm wondering about the fact that the H3 will R/S with a key in the ignition switch but not turned. Usually you see the Passlock2 resistance and voltage drop with the key at START. That R/S test with just a key in the ignition switch but in the OFF position is for transponder chip issues. Can you still get the H3 to remote start with the key in the ignition switch? If yes, try this : Don't inset the key but hold the head of the key right at the switch key slot and try a R/S. Next try this : Wrap the key head with about 5 layers of aluminum foil. Try to start the H3 with the key. If it doesn't start, leave the key in the ignition switch in the OFF position and try a remote start. If it doesn't start, that means your issue is probably with the PK3 part of the immobilizer system and not the Passlock2. Your key has a + sign within a circle, right? Soldering is fun!

Yes, vehicle still remote starts fine with key in the ignition system but not turned...at work today kreg, but will try those suggestions when at home this evening. I hadn't noticed whether the key had that symbol on it, but I do recall the module surrounding the ignition cylinder key entry point having "PK 3+" on it. After your last post, I think I'm lacking some understanding as to how this system works....didn't realize that there were two variables here (Passlock 2 and PK3)! Al

kreg, vehicle will not r/s (crank) with head of key held right at key slot.....also, with key head wrapped in aluminum foil vehicle will not start with key, nor will it r/s with key in ignition at "off". Key blades have 3+ stamped just below head. So it seems everything you suspected was correct..Al

Being as the R/S can control the locks and start the H3 when a PK3 transponder chip is in range of the antenna, it's definitely something to do with the PK3 portion of the install. PK3 is pretty to easy to bypass via "key in the box" method. PK3 keys are cheap and programming a spare is easy but... Being as you are in Canada, try following the Type 4 wiring diagram. The only difference is the Ground connection going to the ADS AL-CA 10 Pin connection. Just use the Purple/Black wire to ground instead of the Purple/Yellow that the Type 3 diagram shows. Also double check the ADS AL-CA Ignition and Accessory sense connections. Do a Factory Reset on the bypass module, then lock in the two blink W2W mode and then the actual vehicle programming. Ensure the LED gives the correct responses at Step 6.Soldering is fun!

Nailed it kreg! Ignition and Accessory inputs checked fine, moved ground input on ALCA from purple/yellow to purple/black, programmed and started right up first time via remote! So for those following this thread in the future, 2008 Hummer H3 (Canadian) needs to be treated as a 2009 model install (Type 4) for ALCA install/programming which makes it the same as the Canyon/Colorado....slightly different wiring for the Canadian vs the U.S. model. Thank you very much guys (kreg, Jeff and geep) for all the help on this over the last few days....hopefully in the future I'll be able to repay the favor to one of you with some knowledge that I may happen to have.....Al