BMW E39 Remote Starter Wiring Confusion

87A should be used instead of 87. This way your parking lights will be off by default. By orange wire, I'm assuming you mean the yellow wire is not putting out voltage. The white wire is negative and will not give you positive voltage. Do you have the jumper correctly positioned for the green wire (either accessory or ignition)? Something I noticed on the picture of the manual you posted (not the one I found online), is the parking light jumper. Do you have this set in a vertical position (not the horizontal neutral position)? If not, this is likely your problem. The left position is for the negative output, the right position is positive.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

On my relay it has two 87 pins but no 87a pins. Not sure if it's a huge difference but it works fine when I supply it with power. Yes you're right, sorry I got confused with all these wires lol! It's the yellow wire, not orange. I believe both jumpers are set properly. I tried setting it in both positive and negative. On this website it says the parking light is negative http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx But either way I tried both. But most confusing is that I'm getting 0 volts on yellow and green wires. My multimeter is smart, even if I reverse probes, it will still show voltage with the negative sign in front. But in this case I'm not getting any voltage output from the remote module, which is puzzling. Yet the car starts and the trunk opens from the remote

If your relay has your parking lights normally illuminated and they go off when you put 12 volts to the trigger, switch to the "other 87" (which is actually 87A). Otherwise your lights will normally be left on, draining the battery. Even though it shows negative for parking lights at the switch, it says see diagram (which is linked to the right). If they were working you could use either the negative or positive output since it's not getting connected to the car, but being used to trigger a relay which connects to the car. If you have a ground connected to 85 of your relay, then you would need a positive output to 86 since a negative wouldn't trigger it. Since you can't get a positive output to work, connect 85 (or 86) to a constant 12 volt positive source, and connect 86 (or 85) to the negative output. Be sure to move your jumper to the negative output position.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

If the relay has two 87 terminals, you have a dual make relay, not an SPDT relay. the12volt • Support the12volt.com

^^ +1 what he said. I should have realized that. You still have other issues, but you need a SPDT relay. If it doesn't have an 87A it's the wrong one even though it looks the same.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Based on this link I think it's a Dual Make Single Pole Single Throw Relay. If you look at the picture I posted, it has two 87 terminals and they both get connected to the 30 terminal when there's power to 85 and 86. I can look if I have other relays, or I can order one online that has 87 and 87A terminals. The biggest issue right now is trying to figure out why I'm getting no power output from the module where I should be getting 12v. Is it possible I connected something wrong at the ignition switch? You see, most graphs/tables I've looked at, they don't provide clear instructions. Like this one only lists one red constant 12v wire and one green 12v ignition wire. I have 3 of each. The instructions scattered on the internet vary to some degree. I followed what I thought made most sense. Here it says to connect the 4 green ignition wires together. I only connected 3 because I have only 3 green wires. For the constant 12 volts I have 3 red wires at the ignition switch and based on the picture of remote instructions, I only need 2 to power the module. So i connected both red wires separately from the module to the ignition switch. It looks like it doesn't matter what wire in the ignition switch I choose. I have 1 more (3rd) red wire on the ignition switch I didn't touch. If I understood correctly, you're saying I should disconnect the ground wire of the parking lights from the relay. Instead, I should connect constant 12 volts (found somewhere in the vehicle, maybe I can take it directly from ignition switch) to 85 relay pole and connect the yellow wire to 86 pole, having switched the jumper to "negative" on the module. Let me try this. I honestly don't care too much for the parking lights on this beater 528i, but it's annoying the hell out of me that I cannot figure it out. I also want to write up a good tutorial with pictures and footnotes, not just bare bones "Power Lock: BLUE/RED" without really knowing what the wire looks like and where exactly to find it.

I'm no pro but I'm leaning toward a faulty module...unless my connections are so wrong they messed up the module in a way it doesn't give proper outputs. I changed parking lights jumper to negative and powered up the relay on terminal 86 with 12 volts from courtesy lights (easiest to access since my door is taken apart). I closed the circuit with the yellow wire in terminal 85 and nothing happened. I double checked the ground wire from the starter module and it's grounding properly. I tested all the other wires on this connector just in case. By default I tested without a key in ignition and then turned it to "on" (all the way forward before cranking) to see if things changed 1 - ground 2 (tach) no voltage (001.4 m V). With key in "on", 9.22V 3 (hood pin) 4.68 volts 4 (brake switch) -000.3 m volts. Key on, 017.5 m volts. Brakes applied - 12 volts 5 (parking lights) around 016.2 m volts key on, 029.0 m volts I found the correct relay you guys suggested But with the current state of affairs it's of no use

This is my ignition switch pinout Pin Differences: I've got nothing on pin 9, though the picture says "voltage supply" I've got a green wire on pin 10, while it's empty on the picture. I don't know why it's different. None of them seem to match up exactly to mine https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-528i-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/fuses/f35-fuse/q-S2 None of them say which wire is ignition, accessory etc. My ignition switch connections: Pin 1, 3 and 10 are green wires that I understood are all ignition. I connected the 3 of them together to the yellow (ignition) wire from the module. Pin 2 is a purple wire I understood to be accessories, so I connected it to the orange wire on the module. Pins 5, 6 and 7 are all red power wires, 12 volts constant. I spliced wires on pin 5 and 7 and connected them separately to 2 red wires from the starter module. I left red wire on pin 6 intact. Pin 8 is a black starter wire, so I connected it to the purple starter wire on the module. Pin 9 is empty Pin 10 I already covered Pin 11 is empty I did my best given some confusing instructions. For example, this is showing the starter wire as black/yellow. Mine is plain black. Another confusion, it shows ignition 1 as green and ignition 2 as purple, but my purple wire is accessories I think. And I have 3 green wires in total. The website doesn't list a wire for accessories and shows it N/A, which I figure is incorrect. The website shows only 1 wire as green for ignition, while I have 3 green wires. And of course the bulldog security website doesn't tell the wires by pin number, so, one is left to guess... I wish they said, green wire on pin 1 arc. Now on the 12 volts.com it's also somewhat incorrect. Granted they're talking about e39 530i, while mine is 528i They only account for 2 green wires while I have 3. At least they label both green wires as ignition, in contradiction to bulldog security website which labeled one green as ignition and 1 purple as ignition. Both accessories and starter are shown as black/yellow, which is incorrect. If this was the case, how would one know which black/yellow wire is starter and which is accessories? I definitely only have 1 black wire. So hopefully it's the purple wire on my ignition switch for accessories and I wired it correctly. For this reason I was doubting a little bit the way I connected the main wires on the first connector and thought they could cause problems on the other wires on my second connector.

I just saw your module only has one parking light wire, not a separate positive and negative like the online manual I found. Yes it's likely that output on your unit is bad. Have you tried using the ground-while-running wire (white wire pin 10) to trigger the parking lights? I would have kept each of the ignition wires powered separately. The reason for testing wiring is to verify before connecting. Then it doesn't matter if the colors are somewhat different. The wiring information you find is just a reference and a good place to start. I do agree with you that pin number/location would be helpful.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Correct, just got one wire. This is my remote. Sorry what do you mean by "using the ground-while-running wire" ? Didn't see your edit. Yes I tried the white wire #10 as well, it's not doing anything, no voltage as well.