2010 Honda Civic LX, CM7200 Remote Start Install

Never installed a remote start system, but I've rewired basically an entire engine harness for a motor swap in my e30, so I'm familiar with and reasonably confident with vehicle wiring... that being said... I don't need anything but remote start - I have a one button remote, so door lucks and such aren't needed, I'll just use the OEM Key Fob. I'm in the middle of installing this in a 2010 civic and I'm a little confused at what all needs to be connected at the ignition harness. The wiring schematic lists 8 wires for the CN1: 1 - Red - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #3 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done) 2 - Green/White - [Default Parking Light] -From what I've read the civic uses a (-) parking light, so as of now this wire isn't connected to anything 3 - Red/White - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #1 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done) 4 - White - [Default Accessory] - Going to connect this to the orange wire on the ignition harness 5 - Blue - [12V Selectable (Default Ignition2)] - Is this accessory 2? Should it be connected to the Red wire at the ignition harness? 6 - Yellow - [12V Starter] - Spliced into yellow wire at ignition harness (done) 7 - Green - [12V Ignition] - Spliced into blue wire at ignition harness (done) 8 - Black - [Ground] - Ring terminal crimped onto CN1 wire and bolted to ground location under the dash

1 - Red - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #3 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done)     Correct. Try to keep the distance of the single power wire after it's splice to a minimum. 2 - Green/White - [Default Parking Light] -From what I've read the civic uses a (-) parking light, so as of now this wire isn't connected to anything     Correct, not needed if you are using the (-) Parking Light wire at the Headlight switch connector. 3 - Red/White - [12V Constant] - Spliced with #1 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness (done)     Correct. Again keep the lone wire travel to the +12V supply short. 4 - White - [Default Accessory] - Going to connect this to the orange wire on the ignition harness     Correct, goes to ACC1 Orange. 5 - Blue - [12V Selectable (Default Ignition2)] - Is this accessory 2? Should it be connected to the Red wire at the ignition harness?     Correct. It is selectable via an internal jumper. Move jumper to the ACC position and connect to the Red ACC2 wire. 6 - Yellow - [12V Starter] - Spliced into yellow wire at ignition harness (done)     Correct. 7 - Green - [12V Ignition] - Spliced into blue wire at ignition harness (done)     Correct 8 - Black - [Ground] - Ring terminal crimped onto CN1 wire and bolted to ground location under the dash     Correct What are you using as a bypass module?Soldering is fun!

I'm using the Blade AL. I think I have the wiring for that all figured out, however my other questions are the CN3 and CN5 connectors. Does the CN3 need to be hooked up to anything? also for the CN5, for the green/white wire #17, that gets connected to pin 11 (gray) wire on the headlight control connector correct (based on other posts I've seen you make)? The only other wires on CN5 I believe I need to hookup are the tach, horn, and brake? (also based on previous posts by you - HUGE help, I wouldn't have even tackled this myself without your posts on this forum)

The Blade AL will work well. It must be flashed with the DL-HA2 firmware. Hopefully you have the capability to do that. On the CM7200-s, CN3 won't be used. You either use the High Current CN1 or the Low Current CN3 harness on any given install. There will be a few wires necessary on the CN5 harness. If you look at the Blade AL w/HA2 chart on Page 2 on the Install Guide you will see which functions are handled by the Blade. In this application it does not supply a Tach Signal or the Foot Brake signal. Those connections must be made manually. It will supply the Hood Pin Status if the car has a Factory Hood pin installed, usually as part of the Factory Alarm system. Test to find out. So CN5-4 is required. CN5-16 is needed if there is no Factory Hood Pin switch. CN5-18 would be connected to a Tach signal. I always go with Tach Mode for reliable engine starts without over-crank. CN5-17 would be used for the (-) Parking Light connection. If you wanted a Horn Output, you would need the OP-500 Programmer to re-assign one of the unused POC's. ( Although you might be able to do it when you flash the Blade AL cartridge.) That should do it.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: The Blade AL will work well. It must be flashed with the DL-HA2 firmware. Hopefully you have the capability to do that.

I don't currently have the capability, but it looks like I just need the adapter (ADS-USB) that plugs into the CM7200 and communicates with my laptop correct?

Correct. It's called the ADS USB cable and goes for around $40. With it you can also update the CM7200 firmware and set some its' programming options when you flash the Blade-AL.Soldering is fun!

Any suggestions for the cleanest install of the tach wire? I'd hate to just run a wire over the engine valve cover and splice it into an injector wire. I was looking for wiring diagrams to see if there was anywhere inside the car where I could run it, or even at the ECM which is closer to the firewall/fender (probably run it with the trunk release cable through the grommet) but I couldn't find an ECM pinout anywhere to see what pins the injector wires were terminated at. One last question, where are people mounting the remote start module, I couldn't seem to find a good flat spot to mount it anywhere that allowed each harness to have gradual bends in the wire. I've been looking for pictures all over the internet, but everyone seems to leave that part out of their DIY's.

I usually take the easy route with the Tach wire and run it directly to a F.I. or sparkplug coil. I use 1/4" split loom tube to make the run from the firewall to the connection point and follow other harness runs. There should also be a good wire at the ECM under the hood. With wires coming out of both sides of the CM7200-s it's had to not get some quick bends in the harnesses. I usually find a nice spot that is close enough to everything but away from heater vents and any movement ( steering column, brake pedal, emergency brake, etc ). I use tie wraps through the molded openings to secure it to a solid protrusion.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Correct. It's called the ADS USB cable and goes for around $40. With it you can also update the CM7200 firmware and set some its' programming options when you flash the Blade-AL.

Is the OmegaLink OL-LOADER identical to the ADS-USB? I can't tell but it looks like it is. I can get the Omegalink a little cheaper and delivered tomorrow on amazon, vs a few days for the ADS-USB https://www.amazon.com/EXCALIBUR-Omegalink-Dedicated-Interface-OLLOADER/dp/B00DS7C0E6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ADSUSB&qid=1574339128&sr=8-4

I believe it will work but I'm not 100% sure. I have a couple of official ADS USB cables and I can flash ADS and Audiovox modules. I've never tried any Omega ( iDatalink OEM ) modules. I have tried using the ADS USB cable to flash an Omega Blade AL in a Compustar FT7200-s without success. Soldering is fun!