2015 Subaru Impreza, Avital 4105

Lights are working!!!! Thanks; were one step closerays

I found a trunk latch wire that tests + on the DMM when pulsed with the Original car key fob. Can I use a relay to connect the R/S (-) red/white trunk latch wire to that wire?ays

Perhaps. Some advanced testing might be in order. Do you have vehicle schematics available?   You might have located the (+) trunk motor solenoid wire. This wire would test as (+) and need to be wired up as a "5 wire REV" type. There are diagrams for this type in the Relays section. Personally, being as the (-) Trunk Release wire is so easy to locate in the PKP and does not require a relay, that's what I would use. Extending the 4105 Red/White Trunk Release wire is very easy ( cut, solder, insulate ) and you should have plenty of extra / unused wires on the 4105 available.Soldering is fun!

I got the relay wired up. Now the car remote starts the car but immediately shuts down (key in the ignition off). I don't think I have the correct tach wire. Is that the issue? Also, the system is giving me a constant flashing red light when I try to access the menu or try the diagnostics. Any idea why?ays

Not sure I understand. You have a "key in the box" bypass with a working key inside and the antenna loop around the ignition switch AND you are placing a working key in the ignition switch (but not turned ) when you try a R/S? Soldering is fun!

What happens when you try to remote start without the key in the ignition (just a key in the bypass)?My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

how did you hook up the key in the box? it's pretty simple, red goes to 12+, blk goes to ground, and blue will go to GWR

I see I was unclear. I am using the key in the box which I wired correctly. I was trying to say that I was having the same results when I leave a regular chipped key in the ignition so its not the key in the box thats the problem. The car starts and then immediately shuts downays

ok, got it going! The issue was the ring for the key in the box needs to be in front of the key cylinder , not behind it. I set the tach for off and now it works well. I know its not ideal, but when will it not work without the tach wire hooked up, as now everything is working perfectly?ays

There are 4 possible Engine Checking settings.   Here is DEI's short description of each : Engine Checking Mode 1. VirtualTach: battery voltage drop/rise during cranking determines when the starter output is released. During runtime, constant voltage level is monitored to determine if the engine is running 2. Voltage: starter output during cranking is a programmed duration (Set in Cranking Time). During runtime, constant voltage level is monitored to determine if the engine is running 3. Off: starter output during cranking is a programmed duration (Set in Cranking Time). The remote start will keep the ignition/accessories active for the programmed runtime whether the engine is running or not 4. Tachometer: tachometer input signal during cranking and runtime to determine when the starter output is released and if the engine is running. When you have it set to OFF, it uses the Fixed Crank Time setting ( Menu 2, Feature 4 ).   The problem here is that most engine crank time is different when they are hot, cold and with ambient temperature. If the time is too long and the engine is warm and the ambient temp is 95 degrees, you might get some unwanted over-crank. The reverse is true also - cold engine on a cold winter day will not start because the crank time is too short. Voltage and Virtual Tach have thier own short comings. Tach mode works best year round. The test for a Tach wire is DMM set to 20V AC, Black test lead to chassis ground and Red test lead to suspect wire. A F.I. or Spark Plug Coil is typical on newer enginges. The reading is around one volt and will rise slightly when the engine RPM's are raised to 3,000. Some brands and models of R/S units have difficulty using these weak signals, some work better on F.I.'s or coil packs.   You will have to locate a Tach wire, try to get the R/S to program and accept that signal. And the best test is over time to verify consistant reliable starts. Soldering is fun!