2003 Ford Focus and Avital 5105L

Hi everyone! Ive inherited a 2003 Ford Focus SE Wagon that I plan to convert to a 2 person camper, and so now its due for a ton of upgrades. So Far I have installed a aftermarket cruise control, a flip down dvd screen in the back, a backup camera, and 95% of a pioneer AVH-w4500NEX head unit. It has the Zetec engine and factory Blaupunkt radio. Those 2 options apparently make so much stuff different than the standard focus, almost every wire for the cruise control was wrong. So I think i am for sure gonna need some help. Not to mention that this time I plan to tackle an Avital remote start with security install myself. I have tinkered with wiring about 24 years, and I consider myself pretty knowledgeable, but again, Ive never done a remote start/security, or a immobilizer bypass before so Im sure that if I want to make it out alive then I need to double check my work! So I have signed up here hoping a few of you here will have the time to assist me in doing a good job. If so please read on, if not, thanks anyway! OK so as far as the avital install, Im mostly still in the planning stages. Ive never done anything this tedious with wiring and Im the type to do it right, so Im mapping out the install before I even touch it. I welcome ANY and ALL tips you guys want to share to make my life easier. My first question is about relays When do i need them versus when I dont? I plan to watch some videos on the matter before I start, but I'll take all the explanation I can get so I can pick up as many relays as needed. I know I want a few options that probably require them, but so far I haven't had a chance to figure this out. I will be wanting my horn to honk instead of siren, I do have a trunk release, I also want to wire the dome light supervision with the door input, (I cant remember exactly why, but I remember I got the tip from another installer. Something about the car light coming on when I unlock the door, and also the interior flashing when alarm goes off). I also think I need one for a starter kill too. Admittedly this is a weak spot for me, so any guidance here is well appreciated! I think I have a factory alarm, I cant seem to get it to "go off". Ive tried locking the doors and then opening from the inside, kicking the tires hard, etc. I do have a blinky red led by my hazard selector, and a panic on the fob. I also have a yellow plug for the factory blaupunkt stereo that is as of now homeless. I think one of the wires in it is for the alarm too, but to date havent figured that problem out yet. Either way I believe I DO need to hook up wires 14 and 24 (from the attached documents) I would also like to clean up the harnesses and remove as many wires as I can before install. Im definitely more of a tidy installer, so It would be ideal if I could hook up and tape everything on the bench first. Ill post up pics of the resources I'm working with so you guys have reference of what Im seeing too. On the following picture I am attempting to mark what I wont need for cutting. The X's are to be cut (if I'm correct that I dont need them, PLEASE tell me if im mistaken), The highlighter are the ones Ive confirmed I DO need (again, PLEASE tell me if I'm wrong on any), and the question marks I have no idea about. the blank ones under the REMOTE START section I havent looked up yet, but Im sure ill need most of these too! I welcome any opinions on this, have I made any errors yet? Here is my cars tip sheet, please let me know if you notice something that is incorrect due to my car being the Zetec, or blaupunkt, or whatever! Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read and help me get through this. Im lucky to live in a time when I can get help from my peers on the task I chose to take on. I appreciate the learning Im about to do, and the time you guys are saving me, not to mention not pulling out all my hair.

Well, lets start with the possibility of a Factory Alarm system. The easy test is to sit in the car, ensure all the doors are closed, then use the factory remote to Lock the car. Press the Lock button twice, then wait almost two minutes while watching the dash for a blinking Security light. If you see a light, watch to see if the blink pattern slows down as this indicates that the alarm in ON. Either way, after 2 minutes, open a door with the inside handle. If the horn starts beeping, you have the Factory Alarm. The Panic button on the factory remote does not indicate a Factory Alarm system is installed. Next you should determine if you have the Ford PATS system. This is a transponder based ignition immobilizer system. Ways to tell... Do you have any plain hardware store style keys made that will start the car? If you wrap the plastic key head area with ~5 layers of aluminum foil first, will the car still start? Do you have a Green 4 pin plug ( with Pin 3 Gray/Orange and Pin 4 White/Green ) at the ignition switch? If your car has the PATS system, you will need a bypass module to allow the R/S system to start the engine. If you car has the Ford GEM, it is possible the unlock function will "go to sleep" after the car is parked for a while. This will interfere with the 5105's ability to unlock it. There is a bunch of info about the GEM and waking up the GEM. Search in the Downloads Section for DEI TechTip 1093 for more info. Being as you have an R/S with Alarm system, you will need some 1N400x diodes for the door trigger input to the 5105. Might want to order them now. Get a package of 10. 1N400x where the x can be 1, 4 or 7. The 1N4007 isn't any more expensive and can handle basic blocking/isolation duties plus relay coil quenching, too. Post the 5105's other harness. We will need to see them for the Starter Kill function your want. That should get you started for now.Soldering is fun!

My dude! Thank you for taking all that time to write that wonderful post. I can’t wait to go into depth on it but I wanted to post a quick reply. I don’t know if you noticed from my previous post but I’ve already purchased the immobilizer. I purchased the Fortin EVO-ALL. As far as security, I really think it’s on board. I’ll test it as soon as I can to find out for sure, but there’s too many clues that say it’s there. For instance a blinking red LED, A special wire that runs to the or Oem blaupunkt radio, and of course the panic. I will get you an update as soon as I confirm it. As for the diodes, i’ll get them on order, but so far I’ve watched about six videos with people installing remote start and security on different cars just to get a little acquainted with the process, and I’ve seen nobody use any diodes yet… Could you tell me more about them and what therefore? I definitely appreciate it. Also You advises to get 10 n1400x diodes, then you mention that the n14007s are better. Would 10 of those n14007s be sufficient, or should I purchase a mixture? Also you didn’t mention anything about relays… Dont I need to get those as well? About how many do you think? I’ll be back shortly with the other answers! Thank you greatly for jumping on this train, I honestly can’t tell you how much I appreciate any and all advice you give.

Ten 1N4007 diodes should be enough. The diodes will be used to combine the cars door triggers into one input for the 5105. The diodes keep each door isolated from the other doors so as not to upset the car. Not sure if you will need any relays right now. The Trunk Release requires a straight (-) which the 5105 supplies. If the 5105 has an internal Starter Kill relay ( thick Green and Purple wires ) you won't need one there. If the Dome Light Supervision is done with a Door Trigger wire you won't need a relay there. Sorry, I missed that about the EVO-ALL. Do you have the FlashLink cable to load the correct firmware onto the EVO-ALL ( currently at 71.46 ) or was the module flashed for you prior to shipment? Do you have two working factory keys available for EVO-ALL module programming? The EVO-ALL is a bit of overkill on your car. You might be better off with an EVO-Ride bypass if you have two keys. You could get one for $25 off EBay and save the EVO-ALL for the next install.Soldering is fun!

Ok Im back! Heres what I got On the stock alarm, either I'm not doing something right or its not got one. There is a flashing led by the hazard switch, but it never changed speed ever. I sat in car with transponder key, locked doors waited 5 minutes, opened from inside, nothing. I rolled down the window, went 5 feet away, two times on the lock button and waited 5 more minutes. No alarm when i opened the door with the inside handle. Either i'm not setting it right, or despite the blinky light, the panic button, the extra wire to the blaupunkt radio thats a "security" wire, there isnt an alarm. What do you think is more likely? As requested Ive printed out form 1093, and also 1076 for when the diodes come in. Ive now got 100 coming from amazon. It was cheaper and faster than getting a 10 pack on ebay. ETA Saturday! If you want some PM me with your address and I'll post you a bunch! I followed the instructions to test for the GEM system. Note the instructions say its test procedure for trucks, but I couldnt find a car version any different so I proceeded. After the two minute mark (and immediately after as well) the unlock switch inside the car did not function at all. So I guess that confirms that. As for the 5105 harness you wanted to see, have you noticed the attached documents from the original post? I believe it has what you want doesnt it? I can for sure grab a photo if needed. but isnt the resource above better? I have the flash harness on order, I couldnt find a reasonably priced seller that did offer the pre-flashing. I got the Evo-all for 40$ so would it be more difficult to use? I really dont want to grab another unit unless its benefit is worth it. Ill rely on you to tell me that. What would be the difference since its already on order? I again appreciate the lesson! Also, I dont think this kit requires but 1 ket to program if any.. Kinda the reason I went with Fortin, I dont have but the 1 key, but again, please confirm my impressions, I am the greenhorn here. Well I think that catches me up with you, or at least until the components arrive. Im excited for the next step! Let me know what other things I could get ready in the mean time. Also, since you’re obviously very experienced, I wanted to ask a side question. Is there a way to hook this remote start to some type of battery meter so it would crank up if the level of charge drops past cranking abilities. For example, if we are watching dvds in the back, I would love it if the alarm would monitor and crank up as needed to keep the charge up despite the current draw. I know I have an unused wire that if grounded will start the car... has it been done? Thank you again sir!!

Sounds like you don't have a Factory Alarm but one last test to be sure. Sit in the car with the engine off. Open the drivers door and press the lock button then close the door. Wait the two minutes then open the door with the inside handle. No horn beeps, no alarm. The GEM system make the install a bit more complicated but it is what it is. Good thing you got the extra diodes. If you only have one working key, the EVO-ALL is a good choice. You will need the Fortin FlashLink cable for sure because with only one key you must use the D-Cryptor process. That's why I asked about the number of keys you had. Your 5105 diagram post does not include the 10 Pin harness but if the install guide I found is correct, the 5105 has an internal Starter Kill relay. Some R/S systems have the Low Battery Start built in. Yours does not have this feature (but it does have Low Temp Start). Setting up some sort of voltage monitoring system to trigger the 5105 Activation Input wire might be possible but I have no info on it.Soldering is fun!

Ok sitting in the car to type this post! Just threw the keys 20’ away, locked the door, sit down and closed up the car. When I get done I’ll pull the handle and we will see what happens. I hope nothing because A) the lady of the house is in bed above me, and more importantly B) I believe that means we don’t have to hook up wires 12 and 24 yes? As far as the GEM, yes if there’s ever an extra step or two, it always always pertain to MY model no matter what equipment it is we’re dealing with. That’s just my luck. Oh well, if you’re gonna swim, dive right? At least after this I’ll be even more knowledgeable. I’ll check the harnesses soon and update back if there is in fact a 10 pin. If you ever come up, or hear about a battery monitoring option, please come back. I already looked up some Avital models to see if I could just order and swap out the brain right now.. but I couldn’t find a single model that mentioned it. I’ll have to figure out something here, I’ll want to be able to make it a few hours powering through pioneer and the flip down... lucky for me I dont have any aftermarket amps and subs to make it worse. If I could get through a double feature At the drive in in my teenager decked out integra, surely I can go longer on 1/4 of the juice. Just get a good battery. (Or 2) Ok well I’m sure it’s been 2 minutes, and I’m out of thoughts for now so here we go. 3.. 2.. 1.. 🦗 🦗 🦗 So confirmed! She’s a big fat liar lmao. Blinky light just for fun! No horn, no lights, No alarm. I can cut wires 12 and 24 now correct? Thanks again, talk soon!

No horn, no lights, No alarm. I can cut wires 12 and 24 now correct? I would make up a chart of the R/S connectors and where each wire will go. Post that chart for forum member review and recommendations. Once that is in place you can cut unused wires. I usually cut them at 2 inches, group them into bundles and put a piece of heat shrink tube over each bundle. Keeps things neat but allows for changes if necessary. I’ll check the harnesses soon and update back if there is in fact a 10 pin. There is a 10 pin plug, it's for the ignition wires and it does have the two wires for Starter Kill. I saw some +12V low battery monitors on EBay. The main issue would be getting a (-) pulse signal from it to initiate a R/S. Some units have a piezo siren but that would be a constant (+) signal probably. There are ways to convert a constant (+) to a pulse (-) but there could be extra current draw with all that extra circuitry. The reason that type of R/S was discontinued probably had to do with liability. You park the car in the garage for a week. Your bedroom is over top the garage... You wake up dead...Soldering is fun!

Ok I’ll work up the chart today for review. Yes I had considered the issue of if the car was always able to start with a low battery. I would definitely have to tie in something just for use when I’m actually using the car, and not while it’s sitting in a garage or a parking space. I for sure don’t want it always starting when its battery drop, just while I’m inside of it. Maybe some big red button with a key like the nukes have… I’m with you on safety, safety first, but if there’s a way to do it and be safe, let’s git er done lol! Thanks again for your wonderful information can’t wait to talk again when I have more ready!

While a bit manual in operation, you could get something like this : It's listed on EBay for $20. Search on "Labeled 12V Battery Low Voltage Detector Discharge Alarm Monitor w/ Mute Switch". With a slight modification to the Mute button, pushing the Mute button would silence the speaker AND remote start the car... Soldering is fun!