2009 Nissan Xterra, Viper 4806V Remote Start

The easiest clutch bypass solution is using a relay wired like this : Relay Pin 85 to Viper DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant Relay Pin 87a   not used - insulate Relay Pin 87 to one side of Clutch pedal plug ( White/Green ) Relay Pin 30 to other side of Clutch Pedal plug ( Red or Blue ) Basically, the relay will energize at the beginning of a R/S and jump the signal across the two pins on that plug just like depressing the clutch pedal does. We don't even care what type of signal it is or on which pin it comes from. Easy peasy. Using the (-) Starter Output will work fine also (just a shorter signal time period exactly when needed) as does supplying +12V directly to the Red or Blue wire instead of getting that +12V from the White/Green wire. Everything seems to be working. Clutch still needs to be depressed when starting with a key. R/S shuts down if I put my foot on the brake without the key in the ignition, and when the hood is open. That's exactly how it should be - everything should work normally with a regular key start, all the vehicle safeties should still function and the added safeties from the R/S system should be used. Glad everything is working, nice job! Enjoy your new and improved Xterra!   Soldering is fun!

Okay , so small problem. I seem to be having issues where the vehicle fails to lock, even tho it seems like the remote completed the lock command successfully. When locking the doors, the remote chirps when I press lock, but nothing happens to the vehicle. This seems to happen 1 in 10 locks. Maybe a little more often even. When this happens, it will always lock on the second attempt. However, that's assuming I realize this before I walk away from the vehicle. There have been times where I got back to my car and the doors are still unlocked. Or if I'm standing right next to the car when it fails to lock, I do not even hear the locks attempting to actuate. I have the lock pulses set to double for both lock and unlock. So I don't think that could be the issue. Is there another feature/option that might correct this that I'm just not seeing?

Anyone? This just happened again last night. Parked in my driveway, turned off the vehicle, got out and pressed the lock button. Remote chirped as if it received the command, but nothing happened on the vehicle. Had to press the button again to lock the doors.

I think I've figured out the locking issue but not sure how to fix it. The failure to lock issue only seems to happen after the vehicle has been remote started and driven. So far I have not had a failure to lock during regular driving, starting, or operation. However, if I remote start, drive the vehicle, turn the vehicle off and use the Viper remote to lock the doors, the first time does nothing, even though the remote seems to confirm that the action completed successfully. I have to press lock again in order to lock the doors. Again, this only seems to be an issue while trying to lock the doors on the first attempt AFTER the vehicle was driven AFTER it was remote started.

As stated, I'm not a big DEI person. Hopefully there is another member with more DB3 experience. I use iDatalink modules and usually encounter no problems. I have not done a 2009 Xterra with alarm system. Anyway, here goes. According to the DB3 install guide, the hardwire Lock and Unlock from the Viper to the vehicles BCM is not required on some installs. So, if you haven't done it already, unplug the Viper 3 Pin lock harness and see if the DB3 CAN control works better. You might have to set the Viper back to single Unlock/Lock pulses. Next step would be to check the DB3 Feature Programming. Read the Note 2 info and verify that DB3 Feature 5 is set to Option 3 Type 2 for US vehicles. It should be as that is the Default.   If it is and you are having issues, try Option 2 or even Option 1 to see what happens. I'm thinking that worst case would be to go with Option 1, hardwire Viper Lock and Unlock to the empty alarm pin positions in the BCM plug and maybe even use the vehicles Lock and Unlock wires in the DKP, too. Info below : Power Lock      violet     (-)     driver kick or BCM right of steering column, white 15 pin plug, pin 5 Power Unlock   lt. green (-)     driver kick or BCM right of steering column, white 15 pin plug, pin 6     Soldering is fun!

Haha, yeah I was hoping I would get help from someone more experienced with DEI but I don't think anyone else is paying attention to this thread. And I tried to start a different thread about this issue but the mods combined that thread with this one, which no one is paying attention to. So that was helpful. I figured the only way to get someone's attention was to quote reply you, so I'm sorry for dragging you back in. Help me Kreg357, you're my only hope. I disconnected the 3 pin lock harness and the locks didn't work period. I could see the dash lights flash when I pressed the lock and unlock buttons as they do when locking and unlocking, but there was no motor actuation at all. It's cold and wet at the moment so I'll give your other suggestions a shot tomorrow when it's warmer and more comfortable. Again, thank you.

Finally a small update. Tried the other 2 options without success though there were some minor overall function changes. Option 1 - all locks works now with a single pulse. But still requires 2 lock presses to lock the doors after the vehicle has been remote started and the engine has been shut down. Option 2 - same as above, only a single pulse is required to lock the doors. No change to the issue I've been having. However, the locks function a little more closely to factory in that they lock at 15 miles an hour and they unlock when you remove the key from the ignition. They did not do this with option 3. So still, 2 lock presses is required to lock the doors after you shut the engine off AFTER it has been remote started. A single lock press works no problem when shutting the engine off after starting it manually with the key. If I wire the lock and unlock manually and use option 1 as you suggested, what is the DKP?

Sorry, DKP = Drivers Kick Panel You can get the vehicles Lock / Unlock wires in either the DKP or at the BCM, which ever is easier for you. You would need to diode split the Vipers Lock and Unlock outputs for the dual connections ( Arm/Lock and Disarm/Unlock ) to prevent any "cross-talk" issues. Diodes' bands towards the Viper.Soldering is fun!

Oh, gotcha! If I already connected (with diodes) the R/S Lock and Unlock outputs to the vehicle BCM (pins 7 and 8) is what you're talking about different or the same thing?

In that diagram above, the diodes were only used for their legs to be inserted into empty connector wire cavities. The diodes weren't really used for their signal "blocking" ability. Here is a diagram of the diode isolation on the Vipers Lock Output wire. This would prevent a vehicle generated arm or lock pulse from affecting the other connected wire. Same setup for the Viper Unlock wire going to the vehicles Unlock and Disarm wires.Soldering is fun!