2009 Nissan Xterra, Viper 4806V Remote Start

kreg357 wrote: Well, according to the DB3 install guide, the DB3 supplies the Brake signal via the DBI D2D harness. Not much you can do there to test things. At this point there are many possible issues. The clutch bypass might not be working. You could a try a R/S while sitting in the vehicle with the clutch pedal depressed. You could try a a R/S while a key was inserted but not turned in the ignition switch. You could try a R/S with the Viper EBrake/Neutral Safety wire disconnected (and the transmission in neutral!). You should preform the Viper Shutdown Diagnostics on it to see exactly which code is present. The steps are outlined in the 2 page Viper install guide. This will give you a better starting point.

The clutch bypass might not be working. You could a try a R/S while sitting in the vehicle with the clutch pedal depressed. No success You could try a a R/S while a key was inserted but not turned in the ignition switch. No success You could try a R/S with the Viper EBrake/Neutral Safety wire disconnected (and the transmission in neutral!). No success You should preform the Viper Shutdown Diagnostics on it to see exactly which code is present. The steps are outlined in the 2 page Viper install guide. This will give you a better starting point. I did not get any LED flashes when attempting this :/ In another forum post the user solved this issue by switching his transmission type from manual to automatic, but I've already done that. I also confirmed that the Flex Relay is set to ACC2.

Could the tach input be a factor? Seems like default is "Virtual Tach." But since the DB3 does data tach, should I switch that feature from virtual tach to "Tachometer"? UPDATE: Unplugged all the wires from both modules except the 8-pin remote start harness. Waited about a minute and plugged them all back in, plugging in the D2D wire last (recommended in the instruction guide). No change. Checked my brake switch, and it's operating normally. Changed Tach input from "Virtual" to "Tachometer", and no change. Changed the transmission to manual, no change. Change it back to automatic, no change. Still getting the 5 flash error.

I'm not a Viper person so my experience is limited. If you are getting the 5 Blink error code and it does mean a Brake pedal shutdown, there is not too much you can do in D2D mode. If you were in W2W mode, you could temporarily delete that connection between the Viper and the DB3. I use iDatalink bypass modules and with them you can go into their settings and "turn off" the D2D Brake output if you needed to test. Not sure if that is an option with the DB3. Double check to ensure that the Viper Brake wire ( Pin 20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT ) is not used and insulated. One thing to mention. The DB3 is supplying the Viper with an E-Brake signal via the D2D harness and you are manually inputting the Transmission Neutral signal into the Viper on the Pin 13 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT wire. Not sure who wins in that case. Have you tried/tested the E-Brake wire to see if it works and is the E-Brake ON during your tests? As for Tach : If you are set for Manual Transmission Mode, then Engine Checking = Tach must be set and the Tach Learned successfully. You can run in Virtual Tach Mode if Auto Trans is selected. Virtual Tach is less reliable in cold climates. You could even go to Fixed as a test to see if the starter will crank. Worst case scenario would be to switch over to W2W by removing the DBI D2D harness and making the required hardwired W2W connections including power and ground.Soldering is fun!

Still appreciate the help, even if you're not fluent in Viper! :) I confirmed the BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT is not connected and is insulated/not touching anything else. E-brake switch worked. Tried with brake disengaged, engaged, and switch disconnected. No change. If worst case scenario, would I not only remove the DBI D2D harness but also disconnect the 2 HS CAN wires from the OBDII connector? Or do they stay connected? As for adding in the hardwired W2W connection, aside from the 12V and ground, every single W2W connection says it connects to "Remote Starter." I'm not really sure how to define that other than I'm connected the remote start outputs to the bypass outputs which doesn't make sense. 2 oddities that I'm not sure have any relation to this. So far, the lock button on the Viper remote works every time. But the unlock button requires 2 presses to unlock. The first time the remote chirps as if it's received and executed the command, but nothing happens. It requires a second button press to actually unlock. And, for the tach learn. Following the instructions for Data Tach (which is the same as Hard-wired), the parking lights are supposed to flash to confirm which tach signal it learned. It's only flashing once, which means that's the hard-wired tach signal. It should be flashing the lights twice to indicated it was programed for data tach learning. So even tho the hard-wired tach signal is not connected and it should be getting the tach signal from data, it's confirming that it has learned the hard-wired tach input.

Try programming the Viper to "Double Unlock" - Menu 1, Feature 5 to Option 2. That might get the doors to unlock with one Viper remote Unlock press all the time. Did you make the Viper hardwire Tach connection shown in the DB3 install wiring diagram? If yes, that is why you only get one parking light flash when doing a Tach learn. The Viper should support Data Tach via the DBI D2D harness but going hardwire won't hurt things. Did you connect the DB3 Blue Plug Pin 11 Yellow/Red wire to +12V constant? That is where the DB3 gets the +12V for the clutch switch bypass. If you had to switch to W2W, all the connections between the DB3 and the vehicle would still remain. You would need to hardwire between the DB3 and Viper : H1/13 H1/14 H2/5    might already be done H2/6 H3/1 H3/2 H3/3 H3/7    maybe, if not hardwired directly from Viper to vehicle H3/8 H3/10Soldering is fun!

Double Unlock worked. I imagine this is because the factory fob would unlock only the driver door with a single press and all the doors with a second press. The tach wire from the DB3 is connected to the tach wire from the RS, but neither of those are connected to anywhere else. The yellow/red 12V from the DB3 is connected along with the red 12V from the RS 6-pin connecter to the power wires for the ACC2 relay. I bundled them all together on the same 12V lug of my fuse box. So for the W2W: H1/13 - Any 12V H1/14 - Ground H2/5 - Currently connected to the RS tach input. Do I connect both of these to an injector wire? H2/6 - RS brake shutdown input + vehicle brake wire? H3/1 - RS ignition input + vehicle ignition wire? H3/2 - RS Unlock output + vehicle disarm w/ diode? H3/3 - Do I need this since it's an SUV and the vehicle unlock/lock controls the rear liftgate lock/unlock? H3/7 - Already hardwired from Viper to vehicle. Is this needed then? H3/8 - RS Starter output + vehicle starter wire? H3/10 - Not sure where this one goes. RS has a GWA output, but now sure where that would go on the vehicle. I'm sorry if I didn't understand any of that correctly.

Before you have to change all the wiring on your neat install can you verify that the Viper Flex Relay Function is set to Starter2? Menu 3, Feature 8, Option 3 Remind me again what happens exactly when you try a R/S. Does the instrument cluster light up? Does the starter motor crank the engine? Have someone check to see if the Brake lights are on. My next thought would be to set the Viper for Virtual Tach, ground the BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT wire, disconnect only the DBI D2D harness, put a working key in the ignition switch cylinder but not turned, put the trans in neutral, step on the clutch and try a R/S. If that worked getting the engine to turn off before 12 minute run time ended would be difficult unless you install the Hood Pin. I'm thinking because your vehicle does not have the Factory Alarm system, it does not have a factory hood pin. If that was the case and you installed the Viper kit supplied hood pin, getting the engine to shutdown would be just a matter of opening the hood.Soldering is fun!

No change when switching the Flex Relay to Start2. Tried it on Ignition2 as well and no change. So none of the Flex Relay options makes a difference. When I try to R/S, I get 3 sets of double flashes, followed by 5 slow flashes. No cranking, no other anything. Brake lights are not on. Here is a link to a video I uploaded if you would like to see. Google Drive Link Set virtual tach, grounded the BLACK/WHITE wire, disconnected one side of the D2D wire, key in the ignition, neutral, food on clutch, and still nothing. I retested my factory alarm a couple weeks ago and forgot to update. That time it did honk and flash the lights when I opened the door from the inside. I bet I didn't wait long enough the first time I tested it. So does that mean I have the factory alarm? It however does not have a hood pin, at least not visible near the latch or anywhere else. I added my own hood pin and have that connected to the hood pin wire. It's a door switch for the interior lighting and "door ajar" light from a first gen Xterra. Verified that the switch is closed when the hood is open and open when the hood is closed. Also have tested the switch with and without a heavy weight on it to make sure this isn't an issue of the hood not depressing the switch when it's closed.    

kreg357 wrote: Well, according to the DB3 install guide, the DB3 supplies the Brake signal via the DBI D2D harness. Not much you can do there to test things. At this point there are many possible issues. The clutch bypass might not be working. You could a try a R/S while sitting in the vehicle with the clutch pedal depressed. You could try a a R/S while a key was inserted but not turned in the ignition switch. You could try a R/S with the Viper EBrake/Neutral Safety wire disconnected (and the transmission in neutral!). You should preform the Viper Shutdown Diagnostics on it to see exactly which code is present. The steps are outlined in the 2 page Viper install guide. This will give you a better starting point.

SUCCESSSSSSSSS \O/ I am the smartest man alive! Or dumbest. That's up to interpretation. I had the neutral safety switch connected to the R/S WHITE/BLACK AUX 3 OUTPUT because it looks nearly identical to the BLACK/WHITE PARKING wire. I connected that properly and I got an actual initiation procedure, but no starter motor engagement. My guess is while the transmission mode is set to Automatic, it does not output 12V to the clutch. Unless I'm mistaken? So I held the clutch in and the R/S started successfully. I tried to bypass the H1/12 CLUTCH BYPASS from the DB3 by feeding the clutch wire 12V from the R/S STARTER 1. That worked but that also bypasses the clutch when starting normally with the key. So my solution is to connect a second relay to the ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT that the ACC2 relay is connected to. Use that to send 12V to the clutch. I think that should only send 12V to the clutch when using the R/S and not the key. Alternatively I can use one of the other 200mA outputs as there are several. There's a PINK IGNITION 1 OUTPUT and a VIOLET/YELLOW STARTER OUTPUT that I think might do the same as the ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT. Would you suggest using one of those outputs? Or do you possibly have another solution to this you can suggest?

It's 3 am but it's done. I used the VIOLET/YELLOW STARTER OUTPUT from the R/S and made up a relay identical to the ACC2 and ran its power to the same terminal on my fuse box. Everything seems to be working. Clutch still needs to be depressed when starting with a key. R/S shuts down if I put my foot on the brake without the key in the ignition, and when the hood is open. I appreciate all of your help and input, Kreg. Thanks for sticking with me through all the back and forth! Most likely would not have finished this without you!