2009 Nissan Xterra, Viper 4806V Remote Start

Well, you could do it that way. That info is from an old AstroChart info/photo. The White/Green wire has +12V on it and when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the interlock switch closes and the +12V is supplied to the Red wire. By using a relay to do this "fully depressed" function you achieve the same thing during a remote start. You would use a signal like (-) Status Output to control/energize the relay. However, the DB3 makes it easier for you by supplying the +12V signal at the right time on its' H1/12 Red/Brown output wire. All you have to do is connect the Red/Brown wire to the non-White/Green wire in that 2 Pin Plug. As stated, the wire could be either Red or Blue. The photo has it shown in Red. So, find that 2 Pin plug at the clutch pedal with the White/Green wire and connect the DB3 Red/Brown wire to the other ( either Red or Blue ) wire in the 2 Pin Plug.Soldering is fun!

I see why everyone says the bypass makes everything easier! Thanks for that info. Makes much more sense now. Just need one more evening and I'll be done. For the bypass I still need to wire all the NATS, and the clutch. The ignition harness was a massive PITA. I had maybe 3 inches of wire to work with? The solder wasn't the prettiest but it seemed strong and tape hides everything :P All that's left on the RS is the hood trigger. Didn't really know where to put the ACC2 relay so it's just zip tied to another harness. Not happy with that but it's close by in case anything needs to be replaced. Still need to wrap a lot of those wires in Tesa tape as well. Other than the NATS, clutch, and hood, I just need to do the 12V wires. Question: I have 3 wires from the RS that have in-line 20A fuses. Can I run all three of those to the same (+) lug on my fuse boxes and use a single 20A fuse? Should I use a 60A fuse? Or should I terminate each one at its own lug with 20A fuses at each? I have open lugs to do that but I also didn't plan on using half of them for this one install :P

Only 3 power input wires from the Viper R/S system? The Viper has H1/1 and from the R/S 8 Pin connector Red, Red/White and Red/Black. Add in the 20 Amp fused input to the external ACC2 relay and you have 5 wires needing +12V power. Viper H1/1 supplies power to the Viper controller logic, the (+) Parking Light output and the bypass module. At the vehicles ignition switch, the Dark Green wire supplies power to all of the ignition wires and is rated/fused at 40 amps. I think I would split and balance the 5 input power wires between two of your open power lugs, both fused at 40 Amps. Or you could use the vehicles Dark Green wire at the ignition switch connector as one source and save a power lug.Soldering is fun!

Yes, correct! Sorry for the late night confusion! I have: 3 power from the R/S 8 pin connector 1 power from the relay (86 and 87) -------| 1 power from the R/S 6 pin connector ---|---- connected together into 1 power 1 power from the bypass --------------------| I hope that makes sense? I spliced the bottom 3 together so I only actually have 4 power wires in total that need to be connected. The R/S has 2 jumpers. The first one is for the "light flash polarity". I assume since my parking lights are (+), I jumper that one (+)? The other is "horn input polarity jumper." I'm not connecting a horn wire, so is this something I need to worry about?

Good plan with the +12V input power. You could connect the 3 R/S 8 Pin power inputs to one power lug and fuse at 40 amps. Yes, your vehicle needs (+) Parking Lights so make sure that fuse/jumper is set to (+). The Horn polarity jumper doesn't matter if you don't plan to connect that Blue wire and use the Horn Alert feature.Soldering is fun!

Hmm, I guess the question is will the horn still honk when the doors are locked like factory? I don't really care if the horn honks when the car is remote started, but I like the audible confirmation of locking the doors so I don't have to look back at the car and confirm it's locked in a parking lot.

The horn confirmation beeps come for the H1/3 Brown (-) Horn Output wire. Info on vehicles horn wire: Horn   BROWN OR RED (-)   HORN SWITCH OR DRIVER KICK PANEL in WHITE 16 PIN CONN, PIN 9 Direct connection should be fine.Soldering is fun!

Got that reextended after initially cutting it short, haha. Good to go there! There is an orange wire on the same harness that is GWA (ground when armed). I didn't initially have this connected cause the DB3 diagram didn't mention it. Is that necessary? UPDATE: according to this thread (https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=102418) I don't need the GWA wire.

kreg357 wrote: The horn confirmation beeps come for the H1/3 Brown (-) Horn Output wire. Info on vehicles horn wire: Horn   BROWN OR RED (-)   HORN SWITCH OR DRIVER KICK PANEL in WHITE 16 PIN CONN, PIN 9 Direct connection should be fine.

Done and done! Wrapped up the install tonight and I was partially successful. DB3 programmed successfully. Tach learn programmed successfully. Key fob locks and unlocks doors. When attempting to remote start, I get several parking light flashes in pretty quick succession, then nothing, then 5 slow parking light flashes, and that's it. I believe this is the "Brake wire is active" error. Any ideas? I reconfirmed that the black/white parking/e-brake input that I have connected to the transmission neutral safety switch is closed when the transmission is in neutral and open when in gear. So that seems to be working as I expected. But not sure why I'm getting the error...

Well, according to the DB3 install guide, the DB3 supplies the Brake signal via the DBI D2D harness. Not much you can do there to test things. At this point there are many possible issues. The clutch bypass might not be working. You could a try a R/S while sitting in the vehicle with the clutch pedal depressed. You could try a a R/S while a key was inserted but not turned in the ignition switch. You could try a R/S with the Viper EBrake/Neutral Safety wire disconnected (and the transmission in neutral!). You should preform the Viper Shutdown Diagnostics on it to see exactly which code is present. The steps are outlined in the 2 page Viper install guide. This will give you a better starting point.Soldering is fun!