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iDatalink ALCA, Programming Issue, 2003 GMC Yukon Denali


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mberube55 
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Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 06, 2021 at 6:55 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
Hello All!
Hope someone can shed some light. I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL Denali 6.2 awd. I have a Viper 5706 installed and working. Now to the problem..
I tore out the old remote start and replaced with Viper 5706 and used the old OMEGA GM bypass module. Long story short, that bypass reset and wouldn't let me pick the right option without reprogramming it and its outdated. Everything would work except the door locks etc.. Occasional passlock lockout as well which would cause me to have to reprogram key. I never have a passlock issue if the RS was used first. So my solution was buy the idatalink ALCA. So i hooked everything up for both HW and Data. Flashed the module with recommended ADS-DLSL GM1. Plug everything in, set the module to data mode, light turns green and then goes off. That's the last time I see a light. I've tried everything to program the vehicle and have yet to see a green light. I have also tried resetting and trying hardwire mode and it does the exact same thing. Directions state that I should select the mode, turns solid green for confirm. I should then turn the truck on and it show a green light to confirm vehicle programming. Still no lock, unlock etc.. I've tried everything and feel like it is something very stupid and possibly overlooking something.
Any help or guidance at this point would be greatly appreciated.
kreg357 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 06, 2021 at 8:03 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Not sure if it's a typo of oversight but the correct firmware is DBI-AL(DL)-GM1. This firmware would allow DBI D2D communications between the Viper and the ADS AL-CA module.
With the DBI flavor of firmware, perform a module Factory Reset first, then set the Installation Mode to Data - one-blink, lock it in and then do the vehicle programming.
Going in D2D mode, the only connections that you have to make are the 2 solid Black lines. All the red dashed lines are made for you via the D2D harness.
Here is a link to the install guide : https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM1/DBI-AL(DL)-GM1-EN_20201119.pdf   See the Type 3 wiring diagram.
Soldering is fun!
mberube55 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 07, 2021 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
Thanks for the input. Sorry that was a typo. So I double checked and I did not have the DBI version of the software. I had ADS-DLSL GM1. I reflashed with DBI-AL(DL)GM1.
I have everything hooked up correctly, I've double checked. I long hold on single blink for data mode. Light turns solid green for 2 seconds. BUT.. I cannot get it to program to the vehicle. I've tried everything. The last time I see any light is after data selection and that's it. In theory it says I should see a solid green light after car starts to show it programmed correctly.
Any advice at this point would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
kreg357 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 07, 2021 at 3:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The only thing the ADS AL-CA needs to program to the vehicle is the ODB2 Violet wire connection and the the vehicle Ignition wire (besides power and ground). I usually run the the Viper thick Pink IGN1 wire to the vehicle's Pink IGN wire and then tap the ADS-AL-CA thin Pink IGN wire into the Vipers thick pink IGN1 wire near the Viper. Double check your OBD2 Violet J1850 wire connection. This one should be properly soldered.
As a side note, the ADS AL-CA w/GM1 firmware has been known to drop the Tach output. On those installs I hardwire the Tach wire at the back of the instrument cluster instead of using the signal from the bypass module.
During vehicle programming, are you turning to START and holding until the LED goes green for 2 seconds? Think those trucks have built in anti-grind so holding the key in START isn't a problem.
Soldering is fun!
mberube55 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 10, 2021 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
I have everything wired that's required. I'm soldered into data on OBD. Still nothing from the module.. no light. I double checked all connections, held on one blink to program it to data mode. Stays green for 2 seconds then goes off. Then I attempt to program to the truck, even held into the start position for 30+ seconds and I'm getting no lights from the module. Is it possible the module is a dud? I'm a pretty tech savvy guy, but this is just frustrating at this point. There really is no reason why it wouldn't program to the truck.
Thanks for the help by the way
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 10, 2021 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Did you try the Factory Reset procedure, followed by the Mode Selection and then the vehicle programming all in a row?
Put a meter on the ADS AL-CA Pink IGN Input wire to see if it gets +12V when the key gets turned on during programming. That is the signal it looks for to start watching for the Passlock2 info.
Got a spare ADS AL-CA to try? Think I've only had one that was an O.B.F. over the years but it is possible. ( out of box failure )
Soldering is fun!
mberube55 
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Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 12, 2021 at 1:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
I do not have a spare module.
I put a meter on the pink IGN wire and it's 0 the entire time. So I'm guessing that is the problem. Any ideas at this point?
Thanks again for all this help
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 12, 2021 at 3:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The ADS AL-CA Pink Ignition input wire must see +12V to allow successful programming. The ADS AL-CA Pink Ignition input wire should be connected to the trucks Pink IGN1 wire. As mentioned above, I run the Vipers' thick Pink IGN1 wire to the vehicles thick Pink IGN1 wire and then I connect the ADS AL-CA Pink Ignition input wire to the Vipers thick Pink IGN1 wire.
Soldering is fun!
mberube55 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 12, 2021 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
That was the problem. It programmed and working. Couple small problems now. Rpm needle is jittering up and down while the truck is running. Remote start works, fires up for about 2 seconds and then dies. Almost exactly like passlock is triggered. I'm sure I can figure those problems out, but any guidance there would also be appreciated.
Thanks so much man for helping me out with this. Been totally wracking my brain.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 12, 2021 at 6:46 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Any Passlock2 or Security type light on in the instrument cluster during a R/S? The properly programmed ADS AL-CA is supposed to bypass the Passlock2.
Did you connect the Viper Tach wire to the White instrument cluster tach wire? Only necessary if you want to run in Tach Mode. If running in Tach Mode, did you do a Tach Learn?
If that truck has "one touch starting" where you can quickly turn the key to START & release it back to RUN and the engine continues to crank until started, you can run with Engine Checking = Fixed rather than Tach or Virtual Tach Mode.
Soldering is fun!
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