Viper 5906V Door Lock Pulse

It’s a 2001 Defender 110 that I stripped down to the frame and swapped in a new Gen 5 GM 5.3/6l80. I don’t think I even reused a single bolt lol. It’s been a long few years but I actually got to drive it up onto a flat deck to get it here. If I get my wiring all cleaned up I should be able to get it on the road by spring.

That's a nice looking project. The parking light wire is also accessible at the headlight switch. It should be red at pin 2. My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Yeah, initially I was going to try and follow all the factory wiring and switches but Defenders are notorious for bad electrical (Prince of Darkness comes to mind). I pulled every wire from it and started from scratch, new engine harness, gauges, switches, everything. I wanted as much as I could to run off the GM canbus as I could and then I split up the electrical busses and added my own fuse boxes. A lot of the original would run full power from the switches so anytime you upgrade something like headlights etc, you burn up the switch, I added relays everywhere. To top it off switches and plugs all come from the UK and are hard to find so I converted everything to Carling and Metripak. Anyways, I was poking around this morning and I lose the parking light wire I have connected when it comes through the firewall and up into the fuse box, I just can't get in there. I tried grounding it and nothing happens and when I turn on the parking lights via the switch with the ground still connected it blows the fuse. When I add power to it the lights come on and I can switch them on with the light switch without blowing the fuse. So I double checked that I have the fuse in the Viper on the + side and when I test the amp draw to the white wire on the Viper I'm getting 0.27amp so I'm thinking it's safe to assume this is going to a relay or that it's even low enough not to worry about going over the 10 amp limit. So I guess I can leave that wire alone. I have an opening for a relay in my dash fuse panel so I'm going to run the dome light through there as I mentioned above, it's literally 6" away so I might as well. Sean

I'm not quite brave enough to put the new Viper module in yet but I decided to try out the old one to see if that helped anything. I powered it all up and locks worked manually via the car switch, tried the remote and it locked the doors but then wouldn't do anything else, unlock or lock. I tried the car switch and it wouldn't work now either. Disconnected the battery, checked all fuses, unplugged the Viper 6 pin plug, connected battery and now the car switch works normally again........stumped. I guess it could be something in the Viper module but, I forgot to cut the door input wire so I did that and when I connected the battery the alarm started going off and the key fob said it was the hood was open. Couldn't get it to shut off with the fob although I only tried for about 3 seconds cause my heart was at about 180bpm, really wasn't expecting that lol. I have the grey hood pin wire capped off with shrink tube. I pulled the 15amp fuse and connected the battery then put the fuse back in and the alarm kept going off even while hitting the unlock button on my fully charged fob. I tried holding it down, double tapping etc, just kept blaring away. I found that if I turn on the ignition and tap the valet key it shuts it off, finally. Wondering why neither of my key fobs are working to disarm it Door locks still not working haha. Next I tried to hook up a relay to see if I get a click because I only have a digital MM. I got power to post 86 and the blue wire on 85, this gets weird. I press the lock button and nothing happens but it arms, press it again and nothing, won't disarm either. I connect the green to the relay and I still don't get the relay to click but I can both arm and disarm it with the fob. Gotta look into this more. Getting very close to tossing it in the garbage, might have to leave it alone for the day. Sean

sgo70 wrote: I'm not quite brave enough to put the new Viper module in yet but I decided to try out the old one to see if that helped anything.

You could always bench test prior to installation. You can use a spare 12 volt battery (I've used a drill battery before). Power and ground are easy enough. You can use a test light in place of the parking lights. Then use a couple relays to test the door lock outputs. I've used some old RadioShack buzzers to simulate the siren.

sgo70 wrote: I powered it all up and locks worked manually via the car switch, tried the remote and it locked the doors but then wouldn't do anything else, unlock or lock. I tried the car switch and it wouldn't work now either. Disconnected the battery, checked all fuses, unplugged the Viper 6 pin plug, connected battery and now the car switch works normally again........stumped.

This is still with the old Viper, correct? Do you have a link or at least make and model of the switches you are using for the door locks? How is your battery? Have you monitored voltage while trying?

sgo70 wrote: I guess it could be something in the Viper module but, I forgot to cut the door input wire so I did that and when I connected the battery the alarm started going off and the key fob said it was the hood was open. Couldn't get it to shut off with the fob although I only tried for about 3 seconds cause my heart was at about 180bpm, really wasn't expecting that lol. I have the grey hood pin wire capped off with shrink tube. I pulled the 15amp fuse and connected the battery then put the fuse back in and the alarm kept going off even while hitting the unlock button on my fully charged fob. I tried holding it down, double tapping etc, just kept blaring away. I found that if I turn on the ignition and tap the valet key it shuts it off, finally. Wondering why neither of my key fobs are working to disarm it

This is still with the old Viper?

sgo70 wrote: Door locks still not working haha. Next I tried to hook up a relay to see if I get a click because I only have a digital MM. I got power to post 86 and the blue wire on 85, this gets weird. I press the lock button and nothing happens but it arms, press it again and nothing, won't disarm either. I connect the green to the relay and I still don't get the relay to click but I can both arm and disarm it with the fob.

Test the door lock outputs with relays. If you don't need them, you might be able to use the factory arm/disarm wires in place of the door lock outputs (only to trigger relays).My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Hey good morning. Yes it's still the old module. I'm just hooking up relays to the door locks now because when I tested the wires I am getting 12v+ at rest. I'm running the viper to post 85, the lock wires to 87, ground at 30 and 12v+ at 86. I'm going to do the dome light the same, I'm just relocating my seat heat relays and then I can put all three in the dash fuse panel. Looks like Carling VLD2 switches, momentary on-off-on. I did notice this morning when testing that my door switches rest with 12v+ when closed and ground when opened so I think this would use the door (-) input, not sure if I should relay that as well. I don't have the door cards on yet so one of the door switches wasn't opening and removing the ground so that might have added to the confusion. I'll post up when I try the relays. Thanks again, Sean

sgo70 wrote: Hey good morning. Yes it's still the old module. I'm just hooking up relays to the door locks now because when I tested the wires I am getting 12v+ at rest. I'm running the viper to post 85, the lock wires to 87, ground at 30 and 12v+ at 86. I'm going to do the dome light the same, I'm just relocating my seat heat relays and then I can put all three in the dash fuse panel. Looks like Carling VLD2 switches, momentary on-off-on.

Momentary switches- okay, good.

sgo70 wrote: I did notice this morning when testing that my door switches rest with 12v+ when closed and ground when opened so I think this would use the door (-) input, not sure if I should relay that as well. I don't have the door cards on yet so one of the door switches wasn't opening and removing the ground so that might have added to the confusion.

Yes, use the negative input (green) wire.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Amazing what a new module can do, VICTORY!!!! I put in the new module and relays to the locks, works perfect so far lol. Got brave and connected the door input (-) and that worked, getting really excited so I added a relay for the dome light and that worked, I didn't even realize that they stay on for 30 seconds after disarm, that made me even happier lol. I'm going to clean up all my wiring now, too many open connections hanging around. I'm going to find the tach wire and then try the remote start tomorrow or I might have to wait until Monday, my son keeps me really busy on weekends. Geepherder, you've been so much help for all of this I can't thank you enough, even with my long break you still came back, that's amazing! You can't imagine how happy and satisfied I feel right now. I'll post up more questions on the remote start I'm sure lol. Thanks again, Sean

sgo70 wrote: I'm going to find the tach wire and then try the remote start tomorrow or I might have to wait until Monday, my son keeps me really busy on weekends.

First you will need to program it for automatic transmission mode since the default is manual.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Well you got me, I couldn't wait. Programmed it to automatic and tried it out. It took three tries like the manual said for virtual tach. It starts on the third try and runs for about 15 seconds before shutting down. The flashes indicate low battery voltage which doesn't surprise me it's at 11.8 volts. Did the same thing twice so now I got it on the charger which will probably take a while being dual AGM batteries. Looks like I'll try again tomorrow, been an exciting day, so glad that worked. Sean