Viper 5906V Door Lock Pulse

Sounds good. Sometimes you just come across a bad module- not super common, but it does happen. That's not your fault. I'm just curious where did you place your order? I'm surprised the Viper support even entertained the idea of dealing directly with a consumer. You usually have to go through an authorized dealer. Also, if you search "tech tip" in the download section on this site it will give you lots of useful information. One member even posted some zip files so you can download them in bulk: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=Tech+tipMy ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Well here I am back almost a year later, sold my house packed everything up and never got to finish this. I'm set up now and got a replacement Viper 5906V and it's one of the last things I need to do before I go for an inspection. I'm really worried about ruining another module so I wanted to confirm a few things. I got some diodes and wanted to be sure, is a 1 amp 1000v diode what I should use 1N4007, and the band closest to the Viper? I also have some others 1N5404, 1N5408, 6A100, not sure if I should use one of these 3 or 6 amp diodes. Another thought I had, is there something else that I could have done wrong that would send power back through the Viper when the door locks are activated. I was thinking maybe I should have a relay going to the dome light circuit which I don't think I have....anything else? I've been reading everything I can find, I wish I could get ahold of an install manual that explains it better than the one in the box, seems like there's more I should know when making some of the connections, the diodes for one thing. I really appreciate the help, I wish I could just drive it somewhere to get it done but it's not really an option. Sorry Geepherder, I just saw your last post today and was going through that link all morning. Thanks, Sean

Okay, I figured I should write down what I've done like I see in a lot of the other posts, so here it is. Main 6 Pin: 1. Red-12V+ 15amp fuse 2. Black-Ground 3. Brown-Siren output 4. White/Brown-Parking light pin 87a-not used 5. White-Parking lights-(should this go to a relay, - or +.) 6. Orange-Ground when armed-not used Remote Start 10 pin: 1. Pink-Ign 1 to Ignition switch pink 2. Red/White-Fused ignition 2- not used 3. Orange-Accessory Output-Going to ignition switch then post 86 on accessory relay. 4. Violet- Starter side 5. Green- Key side 6. Red- Fused 30amp constant 7. Pink/White- Ignition 2- not used 8. Pink/Black- Flex Relay- not used 9. Red/Black- Constant Acc/start at ignition switch 30 amp fuse 10. Blank Door Lock 3 pin: The cause of all my problems I think 1. Blue- unlock- add diode I think with white band towards Viper then to switch wire. Not sure which diode to use? 2. Blank 3. Green-lock- same as blue above 24 Pin Connector Harness: I only used the ones listed below: 4. Black/Yellow-Dome Light(-)- should I use a relay or a diode here? 9. Grey- Hood Pin- Is this required, I don't have it hooked up yet. 11. White/Blue- Activation Input- Is this req'd? 12. Violet/White- Tach wire- not sure of this, I have swapped in a GM Gen 5 LT engine, can I use virtual tach or do I have to go to the ECM or a tach wire? 13. Black/White- NSS or Park Brake- I have it to the NSS on the shifter, I'll have to test it. 15. Green- Door Input (-)- is this req.d, not sure where this goes 16. Brown/Black- Horn (-)- goes to relay 20. Brake Shut-down- I have this to the cold side of the brake pressure sensor. That's all I got, I'd really appreciate more help. The door locks are run off two relays as per the wiring diagram here with Carling switches giving the (-) pulse. They all work well without the Viper connected. I also have the truck running now and everything else works properly although I haven't attempted a remote start but I have set off the alarm a number of times lol. Thank you, Sean

Sorry for posting to myself again but the more I think about it there shouldn't be any way that the door locks would be getting 12v+ from the door lock relays is there? It must be coming from somewhere else, maybe the dome light or park lights, I assume they flash when the door locks are activated? I wonder if the door switch failure on the Viper was just a result of something else I messed up.... Sean

sgo70 wrote: I got some diodes and wanted to be sure, is a 1 amp 1000v diode what I should use 1N4007, and the band closest to the Viper? I also have some others 1N5404, 1N5408, 6A100, not sure if I should use one of these 3 or 6 amp diodes.

1 amp diodes will be fine. To be clear, I was referring to installing them across the relay coils. The banded side would go towards the coil's positive source and the other would go to the coil's ground.

sgo70 wrote: Another thought I had, is there something else that I could have done wrong that would send power back through the Viper when the door locks are activated. I was thinking maybe I should have a relay going to the dome light circuit which I don't think I have....anything else? I've been reading everything I can find, I wish I could get ahold of an install manual that explains it better than the one in the box, seems like there's more I should know when making some of the connections, the diodes for one thing.

This should have nothing to do with the door locks.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Hello again, thanks for the reply. I put in relays with diodes do I still need those ones? I also put diodes with the band towards the alarm on the door lock wires as per the Viper tech I talked to. I've been reading all through this site finding things I didn't even know were on here. I think, if I understand correctly, the door trigger wire can connect to my door switches wire with a diode, band facing the switch wire and that should be it. Also, I had the dome light wire from the alarm connected directly to the neg wire for the three dome lights and I'm suspecting that may have cooked the last alarm. This time I'm adding a relay with this wire going to post 85 with a diode towards the alarm, 12v+ to 86, the ground wire to 30 and 87 to a ground. I hope it's right. I'm trying to add in the hood pin, I wish I didn't have to it's a tough one to figure out where to put it given the hood construction. I still have to find the tach wire but that shouldn't be too hard, just need batteries for my other multimeter. That just leaves the parking lights, I have to trace it back and see if I connected that wire to a relay or not. This is hard enough as it is, let alone waiting almost a year to complete it. Thanks again, Sean

sgo70 wrote: Okay, I figured I should write down what I've done like I see in a lot of the other posts, so here it is. Main 6 Pin: 1. Red-12V+ 15amp fuse 2. Black-Ground 3. Brown-Siren output 4. White/Brown-Parking light pin 87a-not used 5. White-Parking lights-(should this go to a relay, - or +.) 6. Orange-Ground when armed-not used

5. Polarity will be based on the position of the Viper's internal parking light fuse (under the sliding door). Many applications will not need a relay.

sgo70 wrote: Door Lock 3 pin: The cause of all my problems I think 1. Blue- unlock- 2. Blank 3. Green-lock-

1. Blue- to the negative trigger wire for unlock 3. Green- to the negative trigger wire for lock

sgo70 wrote: 24 Pin Connector Harness: I only used the ones listed below: 4. Black/Yellow-Dome Light(-)- should I use a relay or a diode here? 9. Grey- Hood Pin- Is this required, I don't have it hooked up yet. 11. White/Blue- Activation Input- Is this req'd? 12. Violet/White- Tach wire- not sure of this, I have swapped in a GM Gen 5 LT engine, can I use virtual tach or do I have to go to the ECM or a tach wire? 13. Black/White- NSS or Park Brake- I have it to the NSS on the shifter, I'll have to test it. 15. Green- Door Input (-)- is this req.d, not sure where this goes 16. Brown/Black- Horn (-)- goes to relay 20. Brake Shut-down- I have this to the cold side of the brake pressure sensor.

4. Black/Yellow- This is not a required connection. If you're not sure whether you need a relay or not, use one. 9. Grey- It will work without it, but it's recommended. This is not only an alarm trigger, but will also shutdown the remote start if someone pops the hood. 11. White/Blue- This is not a required connection. 12. Violet/white- I prefer using a physical tach wire, but that's all up to you. 13. Black/white- If this is an automatic, you can just ground this wire since it will only start if in park or neutral anyway. 15. Green- This is connected to the negative door trigger wire(s) and is necessary for programming if you plan on changing any options without a handheld programmer (such as switching from the default manual transmission to automatic transmission). It is also used as a trigger for the alarm. 16. Brown/Black- This is commonly connected to the negative horn trigger wire in the steering column. 20. Brake Shut-down- This is commonly connected to the brake light switch above the brake pedal and should only see a positive 12 volts when the brake pedal is pressed.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

sgo70 wrote: Hello again, thanks for the reply. I put in relays with diodes do I still need those ones? I also put diodes with the band towards the alarm on the door lock wires as per the Viper tech I talked to.

Yes, if you choose to diode isolate, then that would be the proper orientation.

sgo70 wrote: I've been reading all through this site finding things I didn't even know were on here. I think, if I understand correctly, the door trigger wire can connect to my door switches wire with a diode, band facing the switch wire and that should be it.

Correct.

sgo70 wrote: Also, I had the dome light wire from the alarm connected directly to the neg wire for the three dome lights and I'm suspecting that may have cooked the last alarm. This time I'm adding a relay with this wire going to post 85 with a diode towards the alarm, 12v+ to 86, the ground wire to 30 and 87 to a ground. I hope it's right.

This looks right.

sgo70 wrote: I'm trying to add in the hood pin, I wish I didn't have to it's a tough one to figure out where to put it given the hood construction. I still have to find the tach wire but that shouldn't be too hard, just need batteries for my other multimeter. That just leaves the parking lights, I have to trace it back and see if I connected that wire to a relay or not. This is hard enough as it is, let alone waiting almost a year to complete it. Thanks again, Sean

Post back if you need help.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Wow!!! You have been such a big help, I can't thank you enough. I'm so nervous to power this up, I'm going to try to finish it tomorrow or the next day, my park light wire disappears into the rear of the fuse panel so more digging required. If I can't find it, I'll just add another relay to be safe. So can I just leave the hood pin wire and cap it off, it appears to just open the circuit when it's depressed? Sean

Yes, you can leave it disconnected for testing. I'd also wait to connect the dome light supervision wire, too. What year is this Land Rover?My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.