2001 Chevrolet Silverado, GMDLBP Bypass And 451M Module?

The security light comes on immediately after it dies. The passlock 2 blinks 5 times when programmed. I spoke with customer support and they didn't seem concerned about the 5 flashes. I saw in a video that it was supposed to flash 3x. According to the schematics I'm supposed to use diagram 4 (Passlock2B). It shoes that Orange/Black and Orange both connect to the yellow wire @ the ignition and the black ground wire goes to the Black/Orange @ the ignition. Assuming these are the wires that plug into the key cylinder. Tory209

Yes, Schematic 4 is correct. Those 3 Passlock2 wires do come from the ignition cylinder. The Yellow wire should be 5V and then drop down a bit (depending on the cylinders internal resistor value) when the key is turned to Start. You could try re-programming the module after verifying the Passlock2 wires. That's why I like to use a Data Style bypass module...Soldering is fun!

She cranks right up when I wire it to ignition 1 but now it won't shut off when I insert the key and press the brake. I have the brake wire hooked up and the handbrake wire grounded per the instructions for an automatic.Tory209

I mean it will shut down by remote but once I step on the brake the remote start or bypass won't shut off unless I unplug the harnessTory209

First, offshore unit are unpredictable... In the wiring diagram it says "IGN2 output the power supply which will interrupt at the moment of startup". Besides not completely understanding that statement, that's not how it's supposed to work. IGN1 and IGN2 should be the same. They should be turned on and stay on the entire duration of the R/S. ACC should come on with IGN but drop during crank time. Your truck needs to see the White IGN2 during a R/S or you will get a transmission fault. Perhaps the best way to do it is with 3 relay, all controlled by IGN1. Two realys would have a 25 Amp fused output positive output for IGN1 and IGN2. The third relay would be a (-) output for the bypass control. As for your current issue that keeps the truck running after the Brake is pressed and the key is removed, check your wiring to the relays. Only the R/S IGN1 signal should be going to Pin 86, nothing else.Soldering is fun!

I did confirm that the R/S ign2 has a delay by using a test light. The setup you gave me was relay #1 87,86 + 86 on relay 2 to IGN 2 on R/S. Relay #1 30 to truck ign2 (White) 85 on both relays + 87 on relay #2 to ground. Relay #2 30 to - while running on bypass module. I just stitched to IGN 1 and wire R/S ign2 directly to white wire I may just bypass the passlock 2 with resistors at this point. Hate to start over with a new unitTory209

Yes, a permanent Passlock2 bypass with a resistor might be the way to go. Re-Learn the new resistor value and you're all set. No immobilizer security but the R/S will work all the time. As mentioned, 3 relays all controller by IGN1 is another option. A standard U.S spec R/S unit will have Disarm, Ground When Running, a proper Tach Sense circuit and correctly timed ignition outputs, just saying.Soldering is fun!

Ok.i hear you loud and clear. I'm considering the Avital 4103lx or the 4105. Leaning towards the 4105 because the 4103 appears to need programing to choose either IGN2 or ACC. While the 4105 appears let you wire it how you desire. I do not own a bitwriter to do programming. Just need a basic keyless entry/Remote start without the missing wires of the "offshore" models.Tory209

I ended up installing an Avital 4105L and its works just fine. The only problem is if I dont drive the truck for 2 to 3 days the battery dies. When I checked for a parasitic draw I noticed a big drop in voltage when I removed the 10a TBC fuse. With the fuse in its reading 110 milliamps. When I remove it, it reads 40 milliamps. The BCM is on this circuit. When i unplug the R/S unit it stays at 40 milliamps.Tory209

The 451m module came with resistors. Do they need to be installed as well?Tory209