Viper 5706V With Omegalink Bypass Module, 2007 Nissan Titan

I had the Omegalink bypass module replaced with a new one and have it flashed and connected. I noticed that the 5 flashes (Brake wire is active) I had before is not doing it now. I don't know if it had anything to do with the replaced bypass but happy that it's not causing issues at this time (cross my fingers). I attempted RS but still the same issue. I have power at the dash but no RS and showing vehicle is running on viper key fob. I am going to test again by putting the key in the ignition and momentarily jumping the starter wire while attempting RS. I was looking at the wiring diagram for the Titan and noticed that I have an Accessory 1 (Heater blower 1) and accessory 2 (Heater blower 2) but only have heater blower 1 connected on 10-pin heavy gauge connector orange wire. Do I need to connect accessory 2 with a relay using the aux 23 orange wire accessory output at 24-pin harness? This would be the same as the 21 violet/yellow starter output at aux 24-pin harness.desertislandertech

Yes, use a relay so both accessory wires are powered during remote start. Did you ever check for output at the negative starter wire? Which engine checking mode do you have set? It sounds like you have this off (menu 3, item 2, option 3).

Is there a wiring diagram for the ACC relay connection? I have not checked the negative starter wire yet. I will follow the wiring diagram you posted a link for on the starter kil. I'm still not sure on how you check a negative ground with a DMM for the starter output. I am assuming to test the 21 violet/yellow Aux wire during remote start but not sure what it should read (0 volts)? I believe the engine checking mode is set to virtual tach. I didn't change this setting but will check. The RS quick reference install guide shows that learning the tach is not needed with virtual tach. Do I need to follow the steps to learn the tach signal and also program virtual tach?desertislandertech

Use the relay diagrams here to convert a negative to a positive: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram8.html Test for negative output just like you did for door locks. Or put a relay coil to positive 12 volts and connect the negative output to the other end of the coil and see if it clicks Verify engine checking is not set to off, and learn tach.

Thanks for simplifying this. I will try it out and hope this is the fix.desertislandertech

I found this post below on the 12volt site for a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder but the wiring of the relay for ACC2 is different from the link you sent. The Pathfinder ignition wiring is the same as my 2007 Nissan Titan. This post shows pins 86 and 87 connected to +12v constant thru 20a fuse. The post you sent shows pins 86 and 30 to +12v constant. Could you explain the difference? kreg357 Posted: December 21, 2013 at 5:18 AM / IP Logged    No, not at all. Your Pathfinder has one Ignition wire, two Starter wires and two Accessory wires. All should be powered by an isolated R/S source to duplicate a normal key start-up. The Viper can directly support only 4 of those 5 ignition wires. The Viper has one Ignition, one Starter and one Accessory output on the H3 harness. The Viper also has a Flex Relay output, H3/7. The Factory Default setting for this wire is Ignition2. This setting can be changed via Viper Menu 3 programming to either Accessory or Starter type output, depending on the vehicles needs. Your vehicle does not need an Ignition2 connection. It does need a Starter2 and an Accessory2 connection. Being as the Starter2 ignition wire is more important, I chose to use the Flex Relay (H3/7 Pink/White wire) for the Pathfinders Starter2 circuit.   That would leave the Accessory2 circuit to an external relay. You have shown a desire to power the Starter2 circuit with an external relay. While that wasn't my first choice, it is an acceptable way to accomplish the install. My 12/20/2013 post at 4:11 PM shows the exact wiring and programming to do this. The relay wiring you posted for Starter2 from Commando Alarms will work but does have one slight concern.   Both this extra relay and the DLPK bypass module need a (-) Ground When Running signal. Fortunately, the Viper 5704 does have two of these outputs. Use the Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output for the DLPK and the BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEF0GGER OUTPUT for the Starter2 relay Pin 86 input. And if you read up in the Relay Section, you will see that standard relay protocol has Pin 85 as the (-) and Pin 86 as the (+) coil inputs which Commando Alarms did not follow. My relay wiring avoided this issue by using the Vipers low current (-) output to control the external relay. Anyway, going with your desire to power the Pathfinders Starter2 circuit with an external relay, I provided the H3 and relay wiring for this configuration. Using an external relay for Starter2 means that the Vipers Flex relay can be used for the Pathfinders Accessory2 wire and is shown in that previous post. The Starter2 external Relay wiring is shown using the Vipers low current 200mA (-) Starter Output, not the way the Commando Alarms diagram did it (although that will also work).   As shown above the external Starter2 relay gets its' +12V power on Pin 86 and 87 from the Pathfinder. The Green wire at the Pathfinders ignition switch connector is rated at 40 Amps and, in normal use, is capable of supplying all of the vehicles ignition switch wires and can be used as the relays +12V constant power source. My original "preferred" way, using the Vipers Flex Relay for the Starter2 circuit and the external relay for the Accessory2 circuit would look like this: 1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT    Pathfinder IGN1 2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED FLEX RELAY INPUT +12V Constant 3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT Pathfinder ACC1 4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE) Pathfinder Starter1 5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE) Pathfinder Starter1 6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT +12V Constant 7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT        Pathfinder Starter2   ***Program Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 3 8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A of FLEX RELAY        Not Used 9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT +12V Constant 10 N/C N/C Extra SPDT Relay for Accessory2: Relay Pin 85 to Viper Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant thru 20 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to Pathfinder Accessory2 Relay Pin 87a       not used - insulate Either way posted will work and power all the necessary ignition wires in the Pathfinder. The choice is yours, you can even substitute the Commando Alarm Starter2 relay wiring (and even use my suggestion for the GWR input).   Every installer will do the wiring slightly differently. It's all personal preference, usually derived from experience.desertislandertech

30 and 87 are the contacts that are normally open, so it's essentially the same. Which wire do you connect to top contact and which one to the bottom contact? It doesn't matter in your case.

Hey Lee, for starter kill, on the relay wiring diagram it looks like both 85 and 87 are connected to the negative alarm output when armed on RS, (Assuming negative alarm output when armed is the same as negative starter output). Are both wires (85 and 87) connected to the negative violet/yellow 200mA Starter Output wire, or do I connect to 85 only?desertislandertech

Don't use the negative starter wire. Use the ground while armed wire: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram10.html

I'm confused. You mentioned on your previous post below that because the starter relay on the RS start is not reading 12v during RS that I can try and use the violet/yellow negative starter output at 24-pin harness. Which wire is the ground while armed wire on the RS? This is not identified (labeled) on the Viper RS quick reference install guide. I only see the orange wire negative 500mA GWA ground when armed output at the 6-pin connector on the RS? Is this the wire that will replace the 10-pin harness violet wire starter output car side for RS? lee.lopez   September 02, 2024Location: Texas, United States Posted: October 19, 2024 at 8:08 PM You mentioned no starter output but have power on accessory. That means the fuse on the red/black wire is good. Sounds like the starter output on the Viper is bad. Check the fuse on the red/white wire. When you try to remote start, you can jump power to the starter wire and see if it starts and runs. If it does, you can try using the negative starter output wire (purple/yellow pin 21) to trigger a relay and connect the output to the vehicle starter wire.desertislandertech