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unprofessional

Copper - Posts: 61

Joined: July 01, 2003

Posted: August 03, 2003 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged

Victim: 2003 Ford Ranger, no power locks

Wanted: "Radio on until door open", Power Door Locks (already have actuators), Keyless entry (hence the actuators), Alarm w/ glass break sensor

Since I have a truck and no rear-sliding window the only way in is by breaking the glass or opening doors. So I figure I can do without a motion sensor, although I'm not entirely opposed to one if the price is right. Not really needing a starter kill since the truck has the Ford PATS and is supposedly "unstealable".

I have never soldered anything before. So I am interested in non-solder install options.

Questions:

1) Where is a good place to position a glass break sensor? I thought about having it in the center of the rear window (and so center of truck) but I am not sure if it would pick up all the windows.

2) I would like to do only one tap into the big fat wire running +12V to the ignition. I'd like this wiring to be able to handle a 30A draw over maybe 2-3 feet.

2a) Is 12 gauge good enough?
2b) Would poking a hole in the +12V line and wraping my tap wire around and covering with electrical tape and zip ties be enough to handle a 30A current draw? Keep in mind that if I was soldering it would probably end up being a not-so-great solder.
3) How much harder is a remote starter install vs. an alarm? (Like wire connections and stuff.)
4) If I were installing a remote starter I know I need to make a tach connection, can this be done with the tach wire running to the tach on my dash? Would tapping the wire mess up my dash tachometer?
5) Since I am planning on using 12 guage (or larger if needbe) for my power wiring, is 18 guage enough for the rest? (door triggers, ground, door actuators, relays, etc.)
I'd really appreciate some answers from all you pros. :)
If anyone has some good / bad experiance with either CrimeGuard 745i3 or the Commando alarms I'm interested in that too.

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jrilla

Gold - Posts: 1,498

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Joined: November 19, 2002

Location: North Dakota, United States

Posted: August 04, 2003 at 12:56 AM / IP Logged

Solder your connections.

The only wires a Remote starter requires that an alarm does not, are the Accessory wires (you have 2), the tach wire which you mentioned (your vehicles should be fine to grab the instrument cluster wire. If you go with one of the Commando 2 way units, you dont need the tach unless you want to hook it up, since it works great without it) and in your case the starter wire since you dont want to use a starter kill. Overall it is entirely worth your time and money to get a combo. I sold a guy a Commando FM760 for his Ranger and he loves it. I have one in my own vehicle and they are great units. You can buy a glass break sensor and add on if you need to. I like the on board shock sensor on the Commando FM 760. I have not tested out the newest commando FM 870, but it looks like the main difference from the 760 is the multiple channel outputs which I find unecessary.

Thats my 2 cents, i am sure someone else can snswer some more of your questions.

Take a look at the manual for the Commando alarms to get an idea of what it will take to install.

J Rilla

Owner/Installer

unprofessional

Copper - Posts: 61

Joined: July 01, 2003

Posted: August 04, 2003 at 5:43 PM / IP Logged

Okay well since you suggest soldering then how the heck do I solder wires together? Do you just get them close and glob some solder on or what? A little step-by-step would help a lot.

Also would this get the job done:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F009%5F007%5F001&product%5fid=64%2D2802

I did look through the Commando FM 870 manual after posting this and I just don't think the remote start is worth the extra $100 and my time. I'd probably end up breaking the fancy remote anyway. lol

unprofessional

Copper - Posts: 61

Joined: July 01, 2003

Posted: August 04, 2003 at 7:45 PM / IP Logged

Come on, someone has to know the answers to my questions. :(

I decided on a Commando 601-S alarm. It's cheap and it has everything I need. :)

unprofessional

Copper - Posts: 61

Joined: July 01, 2003

Posted: August 04, 2003 at 7:49 PM / IP Logged

Oh yea....

6) How do you connect diodes to wires? Do you just stick the diode wire into the stripped wire and solder? Such a connection seems like it would just fall off, but maybe I wrong.

unprofessional

Copper - Posts: 61

Joined: July 01, 2003

Posted: August 04, 2003 at 9:47 PM / IP Logged

More Questions for you guys (and gays)

7) Is it possible to use a relay or something to do a "stop and go" type of thing? I am wanting to set it up so I can hit a switch and take my keys out and keep my truck running. Then be able to come back to my truck and turn key back to "on" position and drive like normal and then turn key off and have truck shut off.

jrilla

Gold - Posts: 1,498

Joined: November 19, 2002

Location: North Dakota, United States

Posted: August 05, 2003 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged

That soldering iron works fine, but the butane ones are much better.

You need to solder the diodes to the wires. You can use crimp style connectors but I always solder.

the 601 is fine, but getting a combo with a remote starter is not adding much time or effort. The RS-560 is the same price. That way you will have stop and go mode too.

If you dont want a starter, then you can take a look at this diagram for a stop and go setup with relays. You will need a second Accessory relay and should fuse all of your power sources.

www.12voltinstallations.8m.com/

As far as your other questions go, I will be willing to answer any you still have.

J Rilla

Owner/Installer

chasesaccessori

Copper - Posts: 198

Joined: August 22, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: August 05, 2003 at 11:39 AM / IP Logged

Ok here goes:

Answers

1) most vehical break in's are done through the side windows, so put your glass break sensor up in the dash by your led.

2)I crip every thing with absolutely no problems, so just use a big yellow butt connector to your 12v.

2a)12 g is good enough

2b)No! just crip and tape using 2)

3)Not that much harder, if your into the dash you might as well do it if your thinking about it.

4) I would go straight to the coil for a reliable connection if it were me.

5)thats fine.

(owner/installer)

Chase's Accessories

Ridgecrest, CA

in business since 92

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jrilla

Gold - Posts: 1,498

Joined: November 19, 2002

Location: North Dakota, United States

Posted: August 05, 2003 at 11:43 AM / IP Logged

As far as soldering goes: For factory wires that you are not cutting, use a razorblade to cut the insulation in 2 spots about a 1/2 inch to ans inch apart depending on the gauge of the wire. Then poke a hole through the center of the wire and stick your wire through and wrap it around so it doesnt fall. I typically secure the wire to the factory wire with a piece of tape so that it is where I need it to be before and after soldering. You want the solder to be on one side of the knot if you will, so that the wires can be taped parallel without having a huge ball of solder. That is somewhat confusing, but if you imagine soldering the wire to the factory wire in a T shape, it would be difficult to tape the wires together nicely. I always determine where the brain of the starter or alarm is going to be secured, then I cut the wires to length with a little slack.

Anyway. Then you heat your iron up and simply put the iron on the knot for a few seconds before putting the solder on it. If the iron is good and hot, then the solder will immediately melt and if you keep holding it there, the solder will suck into the knot and then you will have a lifelong connection. it is very easy, but I like I said it is much easier with a butane iron since there is no cord and they get hotter than the 30 watt iron you linked above. Those are best for working at a desk and woking with smaller and more sensitive equipment.

J Rilla

Owner/Installer

unprofessional

Copper - Posts: 61

Joined: July 01, 2003

Posted: August 05, 2003 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged

So does the solder just "soak" into the wiring then?

On the Commando FM 760 how big is the lcd remote? Does it take a beating pretty well? I have a lot of keys and stuff I carry around with me and I don't want to be breaking a $60 remote. That is really my only concern left about it since you answered everything else. :)

I thought about a butane but since I am (hopefully) only going to be doing this once the extra cost isn't justified. If I get my connections done right I will probably put the iron up and never use it again. lol

I went through a lot of the online manuals and since I can't get the stop and go to shutoff when the alarm goes off I decided against a relay setup.

Thanks again for all the help. :)

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