1. Code-Alarm is a popular (and pretty good) aftermarket brand. If you're installing a combination remote starter/alarm unit, simply remove the old one.
Also, use the old alarm as a guide, and take notes while you're removing it. As long as it's been installed properly, someone else has already found door trigger, parking lights, ignition/starter wiring, and locks for you.
2. These so-called "child safety locks" are not so complex as they seem. All these diagrams with relays, diodes, and so forth are entirely unnecessary, and are a complete waste of time. Trust me, I do car alarm installs for three huge Toyota dealers, and I've researched the cars pretty thoroughly.
In this post here, I have detailed how the Toyota doorlocks work, in case you are curious.
But the bottom line is that if you connect to the correct lock/unlock wires in the car, they'll work 100% of the time with no fancy wiring required.
The wires you want to use will test as a ground when you turn the key in the door, NOT when operating the lock switch on the door panel. The colors are:
Lock: blue/white---in either kick panel, or in a thick harness to the left of the fuse box. Tests off either door key cylinder.
All doors unlock: blue / YELLOW---passenger kick panel, but may also be able to find it near the driver's fuse box. This will test only off the passenger key cylinder.
Two-step (maybe) unlock: This wire is blue, found in the driver's kick or in the harness to the left of the fuse box. It will test off the driver's door key cylinder.
This wire may perform in one of two ways, depending on how the van was built, and depending on whether it was equipped with factory keyless entry.
---A. One pulse unlocks driver's door only; second pulse unlocks all doors.
---B. One pulse does absolutely nothing; second pulse unlocks all doors.
If you turn the driver's door key REALLY slowly to the unlock position, watch closely to see if the driver's door jumps open electrically. If it does...and if your friend wants two-step unlock...and if your alarm supports it, then great. If none of the above applies, use the blue / YELLOW instead.
3. Some alarms are fussier than others about this. The alarm won't exactly false...but some alarms do send out reminder chirps to tell you you've left the domelight on, and it can get annoying. Try the RED / white coming out of the fuse box and see how it goes. If necessary, I can tell you where to get a door trigger source that beats all the domelight delay.
4. No, no transponder. I've done a whole bunch of Siennas, so I'll try to throw a few tips:
---For the brake wire, the brake switch itself isn't that easy to access. But you can get the GREEN / WHITE in one of the plugs at the fusebox, or in the driver's kick panel running to the rear of the car.
---For remote start, the BLACK / YELLOW and BLACK/ red ignition wires allow the engine to run and the climate controls to work. The blue accessory wire only serves to operate the radio, power mirrors, and so forth. I prefer that the radio remain off during remote start, so I leave the blue unpowered, but it is up to you.
---There is a source for tach INSIDE the car, which is better. It's easy to do, but hard for me to describe. But I will try.
Above the driver's left foot, you'll see a thick wire harness, wrapped in black electrical tape, coming in from the engine compartment. Now feel with your hand....there is another 1/2" thick harness, wrapped in gray foam tape, that is going upward from the big harness. Pull it down and unwrap the tape.
There are two light GREEN/ black wires in there; one of those is tach. There's also a RED / white door trigger wire in there that beats the delay. (By the way, this is the harness that goes up to the instrument cluster. You can remove the cluster for easier access, but it takes longer that way.)
---It's a little tricky to get wires underhood on that van. Just carefully note how the old system was done; maybe use the old wiring as a snake to pull your new stuff through.
---After you take the plastic dash down, you'll notice that the metal knee bolster behind it has a lot of sharp edges. If your wiring will be against or near the bolster, tape up the edges, or slip a little bit of plastic split loom over them, so your wires won't get chafed.
---Toyota dash panels are absurdly prone to getting gouged up. Be careful about throwing them around, banging tools against them, etcetera.
---You will have to disconnect and then reconnect the hood latch cable; it's not hard, but it can be frustrating if you haven't done it before. I do it in this order:
1. Pull hood release lever so it's up and out of your way.
2. Remove two screws you see there.
3. Remove rest of dash as usual.
4. From the backside, you'll see that the whole thing has a sort of U-shaped clip at the top; push the clip so the whole mechanism falls out the other side, with the cable still attached.
5. Now, again go to the side of the dash that the driver can see, and get the hood thing in your hand.
6. You'll see that the cable has a plastic sleeve, and it slips into the metal frame of the release mechanism....slide it away from where it sits.
7. Now the cable slips out of the handle with no effort, and you can put the dash panel out of the way.
Installation is the reverse.....just don't forget to push the cable out through the hole BEFORE you screw the dash into place, or you'll have to do it over.
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Code Alarm is an aftermarket brand, so yes you can just pull it out and install your new equipment, No there's no need for a trasmod on this year/model...
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