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1998 Toyota Sienna, Crimestopper 2011


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cpgoose 
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Posted: September 30, 2003 at 8:21 AM / IP Logged  
haha...thanks for the response...it was really helpful. I've done remote starts before, but I'm not a pro like some people...so I like to research before I start.
Thanks everyone else for all of the help!
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youngblood 
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Posted: September 30, 2003 at 10:04 PM / IP Logged  

I think that's how most installers got their start... so I don't discourage what you're doing and commend you for it... and I don't believe I would have done it any different back in my day... ask questions first, dive in, sink or swim.  Pertains to most everything.  Good Luck...

If you don't get the right unlock wires, what you think works during testing eventually "falls asleep" and doesn't respond to the unlock pulses you are giving it.  A quick way to test whether a wire "falls asleep" or not on a Toyota is to (assuming you're in standard Installer position on your knee facing your dash, with the driver door open) lock the door via door lock switch, then press on the door pinswitch to simulate the door closing.  The wire that once unlocked doors may or may not still work.  The right wire does... wrong wire doesn't.  on your Sienna I believe the blue wire falls asleep unless diode isolated with the child safety lock wire.... Easiest solution is one little tappy tap tap on your blue / YELLOW wire sitting riiiiiiiiiight next to the lock (blue/white).  I'm feeling a scoche long winded and somewhat repetetive I'll flame out now

cpgoose 
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Posted: October 01, 2003 at 7:47 AM / IP Logged  
youngblood wrote:

I think that's how most installers got their start... so I don't discourage what you're doing and commend you for it... and I don't believe I would have done it any different back in my day... ask questions first, dive in, sink or swim.  Pertains to most everything.  Good Luck...

Thank you.
As for the door wires, I was going to shoot for the one's Chris was talking about (blue/white for lock, and blue / YELLOW for unlock). This way I'll have no problems with the child locks. And judging by what you're saying, these won't fall "asleep" like the blue wire might do.
Can I ask a (dumb) question. When you guys say the wire will test (-) when you turn the key, I should: Put the red lead of the meter to 12v+ and the black lead to the wire. The meter should rest at neutral? Then when I test the lock, the meter should jump down to a (-) number...not necessarily -12v.
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cpgoose 
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Posted: October 09, 2003 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged  
Hey, could I throw in a few more quick questions?
1. Here's a shot of the dash. I only see the one screw on the right (I haven't fully started yet). I know you spoke about removing the hood release, but are there other screws that I should see? Or do I just gently pop it out, like some other foreign cars?
1998 Toyota Sienna, Crimestopper 2011 - Page 2 -- posted image.
2. The manual for the alarm/rs says that the WHITE wire from the large gauge wires is for the parking lights (+), but that I might need a relay if the polarity is different. If the parking lights are (+), though, does that mean that it's strong enough to handle the parking lights? I just ask because I usually have to use a relay for the p-lights.
3. For the door locks (that show negative from the diagram), I just use the simple "negative trigger doorlock wiring" diagram in them manual, right? No relays needed?
Thanks!
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Chris Luongo 
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Posted: October 09, 2003 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  
1. A. One visible screw on the lower right of the dash. B. One hidden screw on the lower left of the dash. (It'll be exposed when you remove the driver's kick panel.) C. Remove the hood latch.
2. If the output is for positive parking lights, connect it directly to the green positive parking lights wire in the car.
3. Straight negative trigger; no relays required.
cpgoose 
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Posted: October 10, 2003 at 6:31 AM / IP Logged  
Excellent, thanks Chris!
I'll be working on it this weekend.
Man, are you as good with Maximas as you are with Siennas? No one wants to answer my poor questions over there 1998 Toyota Sienna, Crimestopper 2011 - Page 2 -- posted image.
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Chris Luongo 
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Posted: October 10, 2003 at 5:05 PM / IP Logged  
What year Maxima? I've done many of the Infiniti I-35, which is the same car. I haven't tried a 2004 Maxima yet, though.
cpgoose 
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Posted: October 10, 2003 at 7:34 PM / IP Logged  
Hehe, it's a 95. I secretly put the link to that question in the last post...I guess it was too secret 1998 Toyota Sienna, Crimestopper 2011 - Page 2 -- posted image.
Here's a link to it in case you're bored
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cpgoose 
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Posted: October 13, 2003 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged  
Hey....does anyone know what wire I would use for the rear defogger? She might have an extra AUX channel, so I might hook it up to that. Location would be good too :-)
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cpgoose 
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Posted: October 13, 2003 at 1:07 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, I'm a bit confused with the doorlock situation. While I was removing the old alarm, here's what they did (and it seems to work). Behind the fuse panel, there's a connector that's got a bunch of wires going into it. They have the lock wire from the alarm going to a light green wire in that harness. Then they have the unlock wire from the alarm going to a green wire (with a silver dot). But then....they have a diode going from a yellow wire (also in that harness) to that same green wire. See the picture below, that should make more sense.
Can I just mimic what they're doing? It unlocks and locks all of the doors every time. Although if this is wrong, that would be bad to mimic :)
Also, for the brake wire, I tested it, and it's showing ground without hitting the brake pedal. Isn't it supposed to show ground WHEN you hit the brake pedal?
1998 Toyota Sienna, Crimestopper 2011 - Page 2 -- posted image.
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