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Remote Start 03 Grand Am


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AlanJE 
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Posted: December 11, 2003 at 3:01 PM / IP Logged  

Mike you said with the 03 I would be staying away from the wires that operate the airbags.  Is there any info on what these wires are colors and such so that I make sure I leave them alone?

Thanxs Alan

defective 
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Posted: December 11, 2003 at 4:20 PM / IP Logged  
if you see yellow, RUN!!!
NowYaKnow 
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Posted: December 11, 2003 at 11:00 PM / IP Logged  
Nope..Just focus on the wires you need and test them properly (using a meter) and you should be good to go..
Mike
AlanJE 
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Posted: December 12, 2003 at 11:06 AM / IP Logged  
Ok now Josh has me kinda mixed up "if you see yellow RUN!!!" so what about the yellow wire I am going to tap for the remote start comming off the key cylinder?
Velocity Motors 
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Posted: December 12, 2003 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  
The YELLOW wires will be marked as such and they are either in looming or they will have thick insulation ( like plug wires in the engine ).
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
AlanJE 
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Posted: December 13, 2003 at 12:15 AM / IP Logged  
Thank you Jeff I will stay far away from them!!!!!!!
AlanJE 
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Posted: December 13, 2003 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged  

Ok I picked up a meter today, Mike you said test the wires properly? how do I go about doing this I know the black goes to ground and red goes to the wire I am testing but what setting do I put it on and how do I know what I am looking for?

O YEA I found the airbag wire I am staying far away from it!!!!!!

NowYaKnow 
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Posted: December 14, 2003 at 2:09 AM / IP Logged  
Ok well let's see a bit much but I will go through a bunch of them real quick..Your basic settings will be dc voltage, and continuity (resistance). And yes for all this testing your black lead of the meter should be on a good ground and the red lead to the wire.
Constant - Red - Thick Wire - Set on DC voltage should show around 12 volts and closer to 14 with the car started.
Ignition 1 & 2 - Pink & Dark Green Thick Wires - Set on DC voltage should have voltage when you turn the key to the ignition position, should keep it's voltage while the car is cranking (may drop a FEW volts while cranking) and then keep voltage on it while the car is running.
Accessory - Orange Thick Wire - Set on DC voltage should have voltage when the ignition is on, then when you start the car the voltage goes away while the car cranks, then will come back once the car is running.
Starter - Yellow Thick Wire - Set on DC voltage will get about 12 volts on it WHILE the car is cranking. No voltage with just the ignition on and no voltage after the car is started and running as long as you don't hold the key in the start position thus grinding the starter..
Park Lights - Brown Wire - Set on DC voltage will show no voltage until you turn on the parking lights at which time it will show 12 volts.
Horn - Black Wire - Set on DC voltage it will sit at 12 volts all the time until you push the horn. When you push the horn, the 12 volts will go away and won't come back until you let go of the horn. Technically once you press the horn this wire will get a ground on it but that can be hard to pickup on your meter unless you hold the horn down for a while.
Brake - Blue or White Wire - Set on DC voltage this wire will have no voltage on it until you push the brake at which time it will get 12 volts and will remain at 12 volts until you let go of the brake.
Trunk Release - Black / White - Set on continuity or resistance this wire will show little resistance to ground while you push the trunk release button. That resistance should remain until you let go of the button.
Door Triggers - GREEN/ Black & Light Blue - Set on continuity or resistance this wire will show little resistance to ground while the doors are open. GREEN/ Black is the driver door and the Blue wire is the passenger door or the other 3 doors on a 4 door model.
Door Locks - White wire - This is a single wire door lock meaning you need to add a resistor to it. The wire should show a ground when you hit the lock switch, and possibly a few volts when you hit the unlock switch not real sure to be honest haven't tested one in a while.
That should pretty much cover it. That info combined with the wiring info already given should be pretty much spot on for you. Find the wire in the location specified, and then test it to see if it tests the way it should. Very easy car to work with all the wires you need are pretty obvious and easy to get too..The only ones you may not get on the first try would be the horn and the parking light wire because there are usually a lot of blacks and browns running in that harness. (Depending where you plan to find them at.) Here's my info again if you need it:
https://installz.com/wiringdiagrams/2003pontiacgrandam.gif
Good luck,
Mike
AlanJE 
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Posted: December 16, 2003 at 7:19 PM / IP Logged  

I am finding some conflicting diagrams on how to wire the door locks. One diagram shows that both the (-) lock and (-) unlock need to use a relay, however I have been looking at another that only shows that the (-) unlock needs a relay with the 1.5 resistor. Is this true that I am just run the (-) lock wire from the RStart to the door lock wire and only worry about a relay and resistor on the (-) unlock?

Thanxs Alan

NowYaKnow 
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Posted: December 16, 2003 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged  
I don't remember what unit you said you are using but here's the basics. If the unit your using has selectable door locks, meaning you can set it for either positive OR negative, then you shouldn't need any relays. Just set it for negative, tie the lock directly to the white wire, put the resistor inline on the unlock wire, and tie that in as well. If the unit your using has dual outputs both + and - on both the lock and unlock wires, meaning you can't set it for one or the other, you will need to add relays. Hope that helps,
Mike
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