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Building enclosure for two JL10WOs?


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Rukuzz 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 21, 2003 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry Scott for not explaining better. I still haven't paced the top lid on so I put staples at the corners 2 holding the top together. Then I went on the outside and placed staples at the edges. Picture the corner walls on the flat surface is where I attached them to hold both. I know there is now way to send a 1/2" staple across a 3/4" piece of MDF. I got some left over pieces of MDF so I'll try with the screws again. Shoul I go with 1.5" or 2".
dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 21, 2003 at 10:46 PM / IP Logged  
with the trouble your having I would space the 1.5" about 1.5" apart.
2003 Silverado Ext. cab
Kenwood mp922
Kenwood kgc6042a EQ
JL Audio xr650-csi
MB Quart PSC 213
JL Audio 300/4
pair of JL Audio 12w6v2
JL Audio 1000/1
twopolarbears 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged  
forbidden wrote:

For the box volume I would recommend that you start off with a sealed box, it is easy to build, very forgiving and sounds quite good. The ported box will usually play louder and a little deeper, sometimes they work great - other times they sacrifice finesse.Build your box to a cubic volume of 2.2 cu.ft approximately.

Here is the math

l x w x h = cu.ft.

l x w x h = 1728 cu in = 1 cu.ft.

12" x 12" x 12" = 1728 = 1

Any combination of numbers that equal 1728 is going to equal 1 cu.ft

For 2.2 cu.ft. you need approx 3800 cu.inches of airspace, this is an internal volume measuement, make sure you allow for the width of your materials. If I was building this box I would build it as follows

Top and Bottom 29.75" x 115/16"

Front and Back 29.75" x 14.5"

Ends (3) 9.75" x 14.5"

This box will only assemble in one way, the ends and front back are between the top and bottom. The reason for the extra little bit on the top and bottom is to allow a little room for error when assembling the box and space for glue to expand. Use a good amount of wood glue, predrill all screw holes, do not put screw to close to the end or the mdf will split. Silicone all inside seams. Once the sicilcone has dried, spray paint the inside of the sub box, this is to seal the box, mdf is very porous. Add a small amount of dacron (pillow stuffing material) and lightly fill the enclosure. Salt to taste.

Wow, your measurements are just about spot on for what we had. We are making the back of the box actually  have a pocket in it, basically having the sides and the top and bottom extend back about three inches farther than they normally would for the amp to sit in, and be protected from hitting anything...so to speak. Anyway, I've got a couple of questions about your post.

You mention the reason for a little bit extra on the top and bottom is to allow for error during assembly, and for glue to expand, yet the measurements you put up indicate that 'extra' room to be about an inch and a half (1 1/2), that is if your top and bottom measurements (which I have quoted above) are supposed to be 29.75 x 11 5/16 (not 115/16). I need clarification on that. Also, your's is not the first time I've seen mention of fiber fill. Where do I get it, and how much goes in the cavity (speaker area)? Do I 'loosely fill' the entire inside of the speaker enclosure? And the Spray paint..any spray paint, just to get it coated? And why... does it matter that the MDF is porous? I don't see how that fits in the scheme of things here. And lastly... the silicone. Every seem, right?!? And do I use any special silicone?

Wait, I lied, that wasn't my last thing...this is... If we carpet the box, and we plan too, do I let the carpet go under the actual speaker frame, and tuck into the box at the speaker opening? I ask because both speakers have a 'seal' that is supposed to go down before the speakers get attached...

Let me just say a BIG THANKS! for all of this...

John

"If it JAMS, then FORCE IT! If it breaks, it needed to be fixed anyway!"
twopolarbears 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 1:31 AM / IP Logged  

Forbidden, I forgot to ask... are we going to need a electronic crossover network? The speakers came with a diagram for a typical installation of a system with one head unit, sending audio to a crossover network, then split and sending it to two amps, one that runs a sub, the other that runs the other speakers in the car. We only have a one amp application, and that amp is the one to power these two subs. Also, as is I haven't asked you enough things, (but anyone can chime in on this question) Should we use 10 or 12 gauge wire from amp to speaker?

Thanks, John

"If it JAMS, then FORCE IT! If it breaks, it needed to be fixed anyway!"
Durwood 
Copper - Posts: 126
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 7:30 AM / IP Logged  
twopolarbears wrote:

 Also, as if I haven't asked you enough things, (but anyone can chime in on this question) Should we use 10 or 12 gauge wire from amp to speaker?

I can't find my reference for this, but I think it's been demonstrated in the past that anything over 12-gauge is probably unnecessary for amp-to-sub wiring.

Scott Gardner

forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,352
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged  
You will not need an electronic crossover, you have one built into the amplifier. Sorry about the typo on the measurement, it is as you corrected it. However it is not 1.5" too wide. If you take the width ot the top and bottom board at 11 5/16 and look at the combined measurement of the front / back and end, they are .75" + 9.75" +.75" = 11.25". A sealed box should be sealed the best it can, raw mdf is extremely porous, hence it bleeds air. A spray can of any paint applied to the inside of the box usually seals the box up really nice. Any silicone will work, one that is designed for exterior use would probably be best as a vehicle can go from extreme cold to extreme heat. For the dacron, yes, loosely fill the enclosure with it. A 12 gauge speaker wire is more than enough. Tuck the upholstery around the speaker cutout, make sure you use a truckload of spray glue (3M works best). In most cases if the sub is mounted and torqued down, the sub will crush the fabric enought to provide a good seal. Good luck with everything, sorry for the delay, came down with the flu.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
twopolarbears 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 11:01 PM / IP Logged  

That's awesome info. THANKS! I think we are going to be makign our first cuts in the MDF tomorrow. We picked up our terminal cups, MDF, and silicone sealant today, and are ready to begin. I guess I will have to crank the heater in the garage. LOL. Thanks for the info. When I get the chance, I will upload a pic on here of it, hopefully by this time next week. Thanks again...

John

P.S. The speaker wire we have is 14 gauge.. I will assume no news is good news, so unless you think I should use something different, I won't expect a reply. Thanks again.

"If it JAMS, then FORCE IT! If it breaks, it needed to be fixed anyway!"
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