Clifford G5 2000 Blazer

The 1998 Blazer should have the same wiring diagram as the 2000, but make sure you get a digital multimeter when you test any wires.At the BCM the driver front door trigger is in the purple plug(tan wire (-) ) & the passenger door trigger is also at the purple plug (orange wire (-) ) The driver door trigger should cover both front doors(on 4door blazers)check with your digital meter by closing the driver front door and opening the passenger front door if your DMM reads (-) then you just use the tan wire at the purple plug. The driver,passenger rear doors & hatch triggers you will find it at the lite blue plug (dark blue with white stripe(-) ) Make sure if you are using those three wires you isolate them with three 1amp diodes. If you use two wires off the BCM isolate them with two 1amp diodes.The stripe on the diode is were negative current passes thru  (Cathode) so your going to connect the 3 or 2 diodes with the stripe of the diodes going to the wires on the BCM. Hope I help you out good luck and remember to always use a DMM.

The car is a two door.

Ive got the drivers door and the rear hatch trigger showing ground when theyre opened. 

There are two orange wires in the purple plug are not the correct wires, meaning their polarity does not change when the passanger door is opened.  I found another, I cant remember which color though (im not currently near the truck, I left it at my cousin's house in it's "stuck in 4WD" condition) that changes polarity when the passanger door is opened, so I used it instead. 

Like I said earlier, my dmm wasnt working correctly, not to mention im not to handy with them.  Half the time I dont know what Im supposed to be looking at.

The car does have the domelight over ride button.  Also, when the word kickpaned is mentioned, this must mean the general area, because none of the wires are actually behind the kick panel, but above the driver's left foot in a huge plug near the parking brake.

Also, the bcm/pcm, whichever you prefer, is located right in front of the center console, mounted tot he bottom of the dash.  Everything has been smooth until this recent 4WD problem, and the wire at the alarm plug not showing a (-) when either door is opened.  I forgot to check the tailgate wire though.  I wonder if it has something to do with those diodes...

Id also like to thank everyone for responding.

WEll, I finished up all of the wiring tonight, door truggers work fine and all.

My new problem is the car will not start at all.  The alarm itself has an auto immobilizer feature on it, cutting power to the starter and ignition (1) wire if it goes off.  My problem is, with the alarm hooked up, when I turn the key on the ignition wire is not getting power.  It gets power going into the immobilizer harness, but not coming out of it, UNLESS im cranking the motor. As soon as I stop cranking power ceases.  I unplugged every harness, and routed things back to they would have been before the install, and the car still doesent start.  I just spent the past two hours double checking everything.

Tomorrow ill wake up and triple/quadruple check everything.  This is really starting to get on my nerves.

Another problem im having is wiring the tach input wire for the remote start.  One of my wire sheets says to take the signal from the white wire at the ECM in the red plug.  Well theres two white wire, and theyre not in a very proble friendly spot.  The other says to take the signal off of the COIL from a white wire.  Well, they eres two plugs on the coil.  One goes directly into the coil itself, but has no white wire, just a WHITE/ black.  However, there is a small module on the side of the coil, which does have a white wire going into it, but im not sure if I can use it.

Also, does anyone know if there some kind of support line for DEI products?  I know Clifford's are supposed to be professionally installed, so I have this gut feeling I might be SOL.

When you tested the system, was it armed ?? Make sure that the system is disarmed otherwise the internal immobilizer relays will always be on if the system is armed. Another thought would be to not use the internal immobilizer harness and wire in external relays for the starter and the ignition wires by using the (-) when armed.

The tach wire on the Blazer ia at the PCM  located on the passenger fender. On the 2.2L the wire is in a black 80 pin plug pin 10, and on the 4.3L the wire is in a red 32 pin plug pin 20. If you can not get a probe into this spot what you do is take an exacto or utility knofe and slice a small peice of the top of the target wire ( enough to expose the copper strands ) and then meter the wire from there.

I think the best support will come from this site. I am not fond of the support from the DEI website or their phone in services. There are many knowledgable installer's on this site that can and will be better help than those guys over at DEI, especially if your not a dealer for them.

The alarm was not armed.

Thats why its confusing me.  The internal immobilizer is allowing power to get through the starter wire when cranking, but not the ign wire when the car is on.  The only time power goes through the ouptut side of the ign is when cranking.

Ill check the two wires when I get access to a working multimeter.