Overcranked23 wrote:
I did not relazwe that a breaker will not "break as quick as a blade style fuse. |
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You do now . .
Overcranked23 wrote:
So why do you use breakers in automotive apps then? |
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I would stress to you that SOME people use them, not all. Those who use them in their vehicles have done so properly, and have actually purchased the proper magnetic breaker, which has the same performance and rate of speed in terms of break-over point as a standard quick blowing fuse.
You get what you pay for, literaly . . .
There 3 types of breakers in the open market. Magnetic, thermo, and thermo-magnetic.
The one's you see for house use are magnetic, and the cheaper audio ones you see are also the same. The higher end units are both magnetic and bi-metal composits which make it a thermo unit as well.
One of the other things you may not be aware of is that each time the breaker is tripped.
The resistance within the contacts will increase. This will cause one of several things to occure. Either the breaker will become unstable and trip all the time, or it will simply fuse itself to the closed position.
I dont have to tell you what will happen if it remains closed, now do I . . .
Overcranked23 wrote:
then how if breakers are not the answer here do you suggest a way to create a power acess point in vechile that can taped at any time for power? |
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Using a fused power distribution block . . .
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Nick, at the end of the day you can make the breaker box you want to use, work.
But you will have to add in more fuses in the system, which really negates the IDEA & intentions you have.
ie. No matter what you do with the breaker box, the primary wire leading to the breaker box INPUT side from the (+) positive side will have to be fused within 12" of the terminal.
Just the 100+ amp fuse and the holder will cost you aprox. $15.00. You then have to buy the appropiate 2-4 guage wire which will cost you another $0.85 to 1.25 a foot per wire.
From there, all the output side of the breaker box will have to be again EACH seperately fused with the appropiate size of ATO quick blowing fuse along with a the appropiate power distribution block or independant fuse holders.
So the XXX dollars you just invested into the breaker box to have a certain amount of *resettable* convience is actually negated.
The bottom line is this. If you research and confirm the current demands of the units you wish to supply power. Then install the appropiate wire size, and in line of that supply it is fused accordinly, the cirruit will never fail.
Nor will it blow fuses ever. The only time it will blow a fuse is if there is something wrong.
ie. A dead short or a electrical failure within the unit(s)
An over current situation should not be a factor, since eveything is presumed to be working properly. If this wasnt the case, then dont you think all the fuses in your car would be the resetable one?
In the field it is called CFK (circuit failure knowledge)
A person is more apt to consider the reason WHY, a fuse blew, prior to replacing the fuse into the circuit, opposed to having a resettable breaker box.
Because there is nothing to see, or hold in ones hand to force them to consider the fault, before them...
Conisder your options, consider the circuit, and consider what has been laid before you.
At the end of the day, the choice is yours...
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .