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Alternator or Battery?


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sohx 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 6:43 PM / IP Logged  

Hello,

A couple weeks ago I posted a questions about a similar problem. I still haven't had a fix.

Here's what I got...

2000 Pontiac Grand Am V6

2- Pioneer Premeir 10" subs

1-MTX amp. (425 max W)

4-gauge wire-60 A fuse.

Anyways, I had the whole system working fine for a year with everything but I had 8 gauge wire ran then instead of 4. About a month ago I put in 4 gauge. A week or so later the amp started kicking on and off at a set pattern. Later on I realized that not only was my amp making a delayed flicker, but my car electrical was making a minor flicker. I've been through alternator problems before in a similar setting, however I had the electrical flicker stop once I gave the car some gas. The next day the flicker went away. Then later on that week it just wouldn't work. I turned in the amp to a repair shop (thinking that was the case) and the guy said "there's nothing wrong with the amp at all" There went some money for nothing. So then I got all hands on and tested with a DMM my battery. I wanted to see if my battery was the problem. Tested the battery before and after, no problems. For some reason my car electrical works fine until I turn on the amp. I was wondering if by changing from 8 gauge wiring to 4 gauge-would that be a cause of the problem. Also, would a bigger (higher CCA) battery, alternator, or cap help? I was told that it could be my Power distributor inside my alternator that's the problem. It's pumping out enough to maintain the car fine without the amp. Just as soon as I kick it on the problem occurs. Would a higher-end alternator do the trick? Someone else told me it sounds like my wiring from the alternator to the battery might have a short in it. I don't know. What do you guys think? Any tests or fixes in mind? Let me know

Thanks

Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 6:53 PM / IP Logged  
What is the maximum current draw of the amplifier? What is the maximum current output of your factory alternator?
As you have discribed the situation, the alternator is unable to supply the needed current for your listening volume / demands, and I would consider an upgrade at this point.
Or in the short term, reduce the (listening) sound level, so as it does not produce the same problems you are experiencing.
The bottom line is: You will spend money now, or later.
Regards
EVIOL Teken . . .
customsuburb 
Gold - Posts: 1,813
Gold spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged  
Try running a length of 4 gauge power cable directly to your amp from the battery and turn the car on. If your problem goes away then there is probobly a short in your wire some where in the vehicle. Also you should have your alternator checked at a local shop that you trust to make sure there isnt anything wrong with it.
customsuburb 
Gold - Posts: 1,813
Gold spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged  

If his amp is only 425 watts max he shouldn't be having problems with his alternator. Its a different story if its 425 watts rms though.

forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,352
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 7:33 PM / IP Logged  

Wire the amp to another vehicle for it's power / ground and see what happens. You also need to see what the voltage is like when the battery is under load from the stereo being turned on, if the voltage has dropped to a level below 12 volts the amp may be reacting to this low level.

The other thing to check is the resistance on the ground return, this is very important in a GM vehicle. If you do not know how to do this post up and someone will explain it for you.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
sohx 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
I was told by a pretty good source that it could be a voltage regulator issue tweaking out, and the only way to fix that is by pretty much just replacing the alternator. I think that's what I should do. I have had the alternator and battery fixed. It was working fine for more than a year and then this came up. I really don't think I'm pulling that much to get into a higher-output alternator. I think if I just get a basic alternator replacement that can be found from any auto parts store I can get this fixed. What do you guys think?
acme 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2004 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged  
Go to autozone or whatever chain store is around you and let them test your charging system for FREE. I'd look at whatever you touched before the problem arose- the new wire setup. Take a long look at he ground. Bare metal is a must at the ground point and take the previous posts advice on the ground resistance. When you said the flicker went away when you gave it gas? Acceleration?  Speeding up may have caused a loose ground to contact. Seriously though, I'd look at whats new if it was fine before. 
thapimpfromchi 
Silver - Posts: 616
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 30, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 20, 2004 at 11:37 AM / IP Logged  
Hey man, I used to have the same problem in my car. It would be choppy when i was stopped, but when I hit the gas, it would play fine again. Looked in the trunk, turned out my groud came loose. It was sitting up right next to the bolt, but when I hit the gas, it would lean back and touch. Wierd. I highly doubt you have a problem in your electrical system. If you are only running 425 watts, you arent pulling much current at all. Especially if you've been running it for a year with no probs. Upgrading the wire would make things better for you. So, take a look at ur wires, u probably have something touching, that shouldn't be, or something not  touching, that should be. (i hope that made sense. :) Wait.. Before I go, did you upgrade your ground wire too? If you have 4 gauge power wire, and 8 gauge ground wire that might be part of the problem.
1990 Honda Civic HB:
Clarion DXZ545MP H.U.
2- 6.5" Power Acoustik interiors
Diamond Audio 600.1 amp
Diamond Audio 15" M6MKII
Pyramid PB881X 4 CH. Amp
sohx 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 20, 2004 at 1:30 PM / IP Logged  
Alright, So I just wasted money on an alternator, (well I'd have to buy a new one sooner or later) anyways Alternator is not the problem. No, the flickering doesn't go away once I give it gas. It is a constant flicker. If that was the case I'd suspect it to being an alternator issue or ground. I have ran 4 gauge cable a couple times thinking maybe I just made a mistake wiring. The problem occurs over and over. I now am starting to think it's some car electrical issue. What wires from the alternator to the battery to amp could it be? I might have a service center check it out. I'm pretty sure now it's a car wiring short somewhere... what do you think? The short only kicks on once I turn on the amp. If that's not it maybe my amp is seriously tweaked. It passed a repair man a few weeks ago.
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,352
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: February 20, 2004 at 4:17 PM / IP Logged  
Like I asked earlier, have you checked the resistance on the ground return? And are the grounds tight on the battery.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
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