Viper 791XV Wiring Problems

OK, I've read further into this sensor/trigger/input/annoyance. It makes sense that the blue wire is for the - trunk. Fine. The instructions show all sorts of different things for which zone is which and I think they assigned a new person for every page to write the instructions. Anyways, there is a diagram showing the addition of a secondary dual zone sensor to the shock sensor port, simply by cutting the green shock sensor wire and splicing the sensor side green to the blue wire....then splicing the blue and green of your optional sensor to the alarm side of the green shock sensor input. Now, it also reads you do not need diodes to isolate, whoich is fine, since your not running 2 signals on one line, but this does kind of eliminate the purpose of dual stage sensors, when on the otherhand the alarm doesn't work with 2 triggers for 2 zones, it works on timing (less than 0.8 sec is warn away, otherwise full trigger). Hopefully everyone's following. Now, my question is:: The icon which reports sensor 1 and sensor 2 (little box on remote), does this report the green for 1 and blue for 2 (or vice versa) for the shock sensor port, because if it does, it would make WAY MORE SENSE!!! and all of this crap would be so much easier!! If anyone knows...please tell me. I guess if you've installed an optinal sensor and noticed if the sensor icon changed with stage one or stage two of the sensor....then that would be it. I'm really dragging on here!!

God this is tiring me out!! haha 

I was confused too.  Here was the answer to my question:

Check this out too:

Sweetness. Glad to hear I'm not the only one in this boat. I did know about the seperate power sources tho....already ran into that problem with my old alarm....no power to the radar sensor means no worky, and false alarms when there's a spike.

Just one question....when I hooked the extra sensor up, I read in those postings, I should connect the ground to a ground when armed on the alarm?!? Why is this necessary? Can't the sensor be on at all times, as long as the alarm is disarmed, it won't trigger anything?!?!?! That confused me a little.

The sensor is "on at all times," only when it is armed will the alarm brain recognize the triggers.

You can,

but I would use the "ground when armed".     This is just my idea:   I think if something is on all day and all night long, that might reduce its life span.   This just seems logic to me.     I have never tested this theorie, but I think that a radar sensor that just comes on with arming the car has a greater life span than a radar sensor that is on 24 hours a day.

Greetings

OK. Everything is sorted out on the alarm, with no problems. The remote start on the other hand, is a different story. Here's what's happening:

I press the button(remote start), it gets to the point where it's about to crank (starter moves in) but no crank.

If I put the key in the ignition, press the remote start, the engine cranks, turns over, then shuts down right away.

If I put the key in the ignition, turn it to run, hit the remote start, the engines starts, runs fine, but 3 seconds later, it cranks again.

I checked my VATS, and it's hooked up properly, I used the - disarm wire on the H2 harness to trigger the relay. I have my tach wire hooked right into the PCM, yet when I run the car, and try to do a tach learn, nothing happens. My old remote starter didn't have an ignition 2 + wire (only a - wire which was used to trigger the VATS relay), so nothing was connected to the ignition 2 on the car, so I left that the same. Also, I idn't connect the green wire (onboard starter kill) bc I'm sceptical on cutting the starter kill.

If anybody thinks either of these wires (Pink/White and Green on heavy harness) are the problem, let me know....but it seems like I have a series of problems!!

HELP!!