Ford/Merc. Double Diode Info?

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Dragorus

Copper - Posts: 75

Joined: January 12, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: April 05, 2004 at 10:36 PM / IP Logged

Would like to know the proper way to double diode isolate the door triggers??.....I have read the posts here and have seen two ways and am not sure which is the acurate way...

1= Twist the two ends together example = twist neg with neg and pos with pos....

2= connect back to back= in series..

Which is the actual way to double diode....the first way does'nt seem logical because the 100ma backfeed will still go through untouched...The 2nd way however seems right beacause the first diode cuts in it half then the second diode eliminates it......

Please some one explane the propper way for me thanx sooooo much!!

Velocity Motors

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Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 1:23 AM / IP Logged

If you use method one you are adding the blocking diode amperage up and if you are using method two you are not really doing anything at all as far as blocking any more current.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

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NowYaKnow

Gold - Posts: 1,217

Joined: December 18, 2002

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 6:08 AM / IP Logged

When I hear the term double diode isolate I was under the impression that meant to CUT the door trigger wire in the car and stick a diode inline on that wire. Then also put a diode on your wire and connect to the door trigger. I've never had to do either way so not positive on this one..

Mike

chriswallace187

Gold - Posts: 1,661

Joined: March 11, 2002

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 6:41 AM / IP Logged

I'm not sure why it's referred to as double diode isolation really, since you have to use 1 diode per separate trigger. The easiest way I've found to hook them up(assuming this is a late model Ford with multiple negative door triggers) is to twist the non-striped side of the diodes together, hook them up to the alarm's door trigger input, and hook each of the striped sides of a diode to one door trigger wire.

Putting a diode inline on the door trigger wire is necessary on vehicles where the door triggers go to a control module that shuts down some time after the vehicle is shut off, such as on late-model Fords or Chrysler minivans. In this case, you have to cut each door trigger wire on the vehicle and wire a diode inline with the striped side facing towards the doorpin and the alarm's input.

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Dragorus

Copper - Posts: 75

Joined: January 12, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 7:21 AM / IP Logged

chriswallace187 wrote:

Will this cause problems with the GEM module by doing this......Do the doors need to see that backfeed....??

draasch

Gold - Posts: 2,172

Joined: February 07, 2003

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 7:37 AM / IP Logged

tell us what kind of car you have......we can tell you how to hook the doors ups............

Good Luck

David

Ace Security

813-376-9778

Tampa

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Dragorus

Copper - Posts: 75

Joined: January 12, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 9:47 AM / IP Logged

draasch wrote:

tell us what kind of car you have......we can tell you how to hook the doors ups............

1997 Merc. Mountaineer AWD

draasch

Gold - Posts: 2,172

Joined: February 07, 2003

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged

i dont show you needing diodes on that car...

Make: Mercury

Model: Mountaineer

Year: 1997

Alarm

Constant 12 volts YELLOW (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition 12 volts L GREEN/ PURPLE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Starter RED / L BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Dome Light BLACK/ L BLUE (+) AT COURTESY LIGHT *

Trunk Pin Switch SAME AS ABOVE

Parking Lamp WHITE/ BLACK (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

Power Lock PINK / YELLOW DRIVER KICK #201

Power Unlock PINK/L GREEN PANEL

* BLACK/ L BLUE (+) Wire Also Located At Interior Lamp Switch. #201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

Good Luck

David

Ace Security

813-376-9778

Tampa

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Dragorus

Copper - Posts: 75

Joined: January 12, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 12:21 PM / IP Logged

draasch wrote:

i dont show you needing diodes on that car...

Make: Mercury

Model: Mountaineer

Year: 1997

Alarm

Constant 12 volts YELLOW (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition 12 volts L GREEN/ PURPLE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Starter RED / L BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Dome Light BLACK/ L BLUE (+) AT COURTESY LIGHT *

Trunk Pin Switch SAME AS ABOVE

Parking Lamp WHITE/ BLACK (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

Power Lock PINK / YELLOW DRIVER KICK #201

Power Unlock PINK/L GREEN PANEL

* BLACK/ L BLUE (+) Wire Also Located At Interior Lamp Switch. #201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

Thats because your showing the domelight as the door trigger which isn't good due to domelight delay & Timeout.......With this vehicle you have to go to door triggers for propper operation.....

draasch

Gold - Posts: 2,172

Joined: February 07, 2003

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 06, 2004 at 12:52 PM / IP Logged

Driver’s front: yellow/blk

Driver’s rear: Lt GREEN/ YELLOW

Passenger’s front: grey/red

Passenger’s rear: pink/blue

Lift gate: WHITE/ pink

All wires are neg. and can be found at the module. Pins #4 5 6 7 8

Pin 4 is for the lift gate and 5-8 are the doors.

If you have a hood or trunk wire, wire it up to the lift gate. The rest you will need to diode isolate.

Good Luck

David

Ace Security

813-376-9778

Tampa

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