1998 mustang, clifford 3.5, factory arm

Ok I have a 1998 mustang. alarm is a clifford 3.5 responder  ( not useing the remote start)

The alarm has a rearm factory alarm wire.

According to the place I bought it, they said that the 1998 mustang factory alarm rearms itself on a timer after the ignition is turned off .and I dont need to use this wire. Is this correct?

IF it is correct is there another way to hook it up, I can not have it rearm itself will I sit in the car after turning the ignition off.  My job requires me to do just that.  Thanks  Brad

First of all 3.5, awesome alarm. never had problems putting in any car.

Newer mustangs have something called a "wake up" system for their factory brain that messes with aftermarket alarms.  After the car has been shut off for I think 30 minutes the cars brain sends a pulse though various parts of its system.  When an aftermarket alarm is installed it picks up these pulses and thinks the car is getting broken into, which sets the alarm off every 30 minutes.  What you have to do is double diode isolate the doors.  I think (I cant remember right now) that ford has two seperate door triggers for each door on the mustang, both of those have to be isolated (typical diode isolation) then cut the door trigger wires from the car.  On the wire that you cut, put a diode on the cut wire that goes to the brain and connect all the wires back together.  This will prevent the brain from sending false information to the aftermarket alarm. good luck

use darck GREEN/ purle in the drivers kick for factory alarm disarm, or Anti Theft Control Unit located left rear of trunk behind trim panel.

ive never had problems with the wake up, if it really has it.  techsoft and directechs say nothing about it having a GEM module which does need a wake up.  for door triggers use grey in either kick.

i doubt youll have a problem.

now, on the wiring for a 1999 mustang the wiring for triggers lists a *1 and *2 see notes below, so we go to *1 and *2 below.

Thanks to both of you ,I will try to install it without  diod isolation first,,

 If it end up needing it latter then I will isolate it....

I will post a follow up so you both of you know who was right and can help others with same trouble. for the 1998 mustang model

I think he is right, I dont remember what year the wake up was incorporated in the mustang, it might have been in 99.  but if he said the direct fax 1076 was in 99 then that was the year.  sorry for any confusion.  1076 is the diode isolation schematic, not for 1998.  My apologies

Ok  Another Question.... The (+) parking light circuit ,does it draw 10amps or more????

If it draws 10amps or more  then it says I have to use a relay??? Could you tell me the layout for relay conection if it needs one???

I am familar with the pins 85,86,87,87A,30

Ok Thanks agian,, Here is I hope the last ???

As I stated earlier, I am not useing the Remote start features..

There is a set of wires that are called ,the relay key switch interface wire connection. they then plug into Remote start secondary harness, and then plug into the Alarm brain through ribbon wires....

Do I have to hook these wires up... I think they may be for the remote start features that I am not going to use.. Am I correct???

If I dont hook these up, IS there another way for me to have a hood pin trigger as the triger wire is part on the ribbon wire connection that goes to the Remote start secondary harness.

That is correct it is the grey wire, but I am not useing the remote start feature, What I am wonding is if i can still use just that wire from the wire harness ,  Or if there is another way to sire for the hood latch pin...

Also good luck on your install. this is a great fourm for help....