Suggestions on Basic Car Stereo Setup

You won't get a warranty with any of the products you buy at the above online stores.

good point

Running wires to the amp is not hard at all. All I had to do is remove my center console and back sit. Keep in mind you'll have to run a power cable to under your hood, to the battery. You might have to drill a hole to get in there, but it shouldn't be a big problem, especially if you're not satisfied with how your system sounds.

Here's what I'd do for the best possible system for the money in my opinion

1) Buy a clean deck.   Alpine, Clarion, Eclipse, Nakamichi ...

2) Buy a clean 4 channel amp.  Alpine, Diamond, Eclipse, Memphis, MTX, Nakamichi, Xtant, Zapco .. 3) Replace your front speakers with decent 2-ways or components.  Try to avoid using the odd shaped speakers (4x6, etc.)Don't buy these before you've listened and A/B tested with your music.   Try Focal, Infinity, MB Quart, Memphis, Diamond .. 4) Buy a small single sub and build a small sealed box to fill out the bottom end5) Use 2 channels from the amp to power the front and 2 channels bridged to power the sub until you want to spend money on a separate sub amp

Lessons I learned the hard way:

1) Don't throw money into expensive 6x9s for the rear - the sound should come from the front and 6x9's generally create some nasty harsh sound coming off all the glass in the rear.  In fact, I don't like speakers in back at all. 2) Don't plan on using head unit power for your primary speakers.  If you like to turn the volume up at all you'll be very disappointed in the quality of the sound and the limit to the clean power.3) A subwoofer is important, even for people like me that don't like rap.  6.5", 6x9" whatever only play well down to 80-120hz or so.  You miss A LOT of the guts of any kind of music by skipping out on 30-80hz. 4) Frequency response specs, wattage specs, distortion specs, etc. don't really mean anything because everyone measures them differently.  Don't buy based on specs.  Buy first on sound, then on reputation and build quality.

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

About your first learned lesson... I got my 6x9 (3way) in the back amped and I get no harsh sound. They produce a lot of bass and are amazing. I don't even need a sub. I crossover them at 63hz +6db only because my rear deck rattles...Other than that I'd keep them not crossed...if my rattling will go away with dynamat I'm trying to get.

I'm sorry, he said he was looking for quality over loudness, didn't he?  Additionally, he said he was on a budget, right?

I think most folks on here will agree that for sound quality over loudness:

1)  Front stage is way more important than the rear fill       and2)  A subwoofer is more important than rear fill

Having said that, with a limited budget, I consider an expensive 6x9 a waste of money if looking for SQ.  I stand by what I said in my first post.

I've never heard a 6x9 system that I'd call an adequate replacement for a subwoofer.  Kudos to you if you've managed to do it. 

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

My speakers give me enough bass so I don't even have to set the low frequencies on eq to the maximum...even though I could, 'cause it doesn't distort. If you still need more bass, then go ahead with a sub.

I've got a question. What kind of car (year make and model)is all of this going into? Duane...

If you think you're confused, imagine how you feel.   

its a 2000 chevy malibu LS. Also, do round speakers produce better qualty sound the oval ones? Example: do 6 1/2" speakers produce better sound than a 6x9? I also way thought the 6x9's would produce better base that a 6 1/2" because there is more cone.