the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Ground Q/A sticky


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
erinh 
Copper - Posts: 91
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2004
Posted: October 26, 2005 at 11:40 AM / IP Logged  
Hi, I installed a CD player in 94 B2300 and I only used the wire that was back there to connect the ground. When I change stations, I hear a pop sound. I guess I need to find a good ground. I'm going to pull it out soon to hook up satellite, so I may as well ground both in a good spot at the same time.
Is there any tips for where to ground it in 1994 Mazda B2300?
calebsg 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Posted: November 01, 2005 at 9:05 AM / IP Logged  
1999 Landrover Discovery (Series 1) with stock stereo except I just bought a Pioneer DEH-P6700MP with the VW harnesses and a PAC OEM-2.
Everything is great but I get a steady static or hiss which runs at a consistent volume regardless of stereo volume or whether the vehicle is running or not.
Noticed on the the harness that the common-ground speakers all have a ground wire coming back in the LR but the harness has only one ground wire to return to the head unit. If the other speakers are not grounded would this cause the hiss?
brandonp 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 04, 2005 at 11:23 AM / IP Logged  
The Car: 2005 Acura RL, with Bose, Nav, 6-disc In-dash Changer
Installed: Old school Rockford Mono Amp, running 2 Alumapro 10's, 5 farad Alumapro cap, Phoenix gold 2ch. line driver, we grabbed the signal off of the factory sub in the rear deck with a L.O.C.
The Problem: Low level noise that plays through the subs, it varies with engine RPM only between 1000-2000 rpm's. And the noise will go away when any door is opened. It doesn't matter if the trunk is open. Car must be running. The noise will usually go away if it's driven a short distance(50-100ft).
What I've tried: Just about everything I can think of. L.O.C.'s - tried 4 different ones 2 are made by Navone, one from PIE for Bose,JBL systems, and one cheap-o. The Navone one worked the best, but didn't totally eliminate the noise. With the junk LOC's the noise was their at idle, with the Navone it's only their when it's revved up to about 1500 rpm. Grounding - To the frame(scraped to bare metal), to the chassis, even at the factory Bose amp ground. Nothing seemed to help. All of the noise troubleshooting has been done both with the Phoenix Gold Line driver, and without. I've tried a ground loop isolator, and the L.O.C. has an isolator in it. I've also tried grounding the RCA shield everywhere - fact. amp, chassis....no luck! I played around with all the gains on the amp, the L.O.C., and the line driver, all starting all the way down first. I also tried getting the audio signal elsewhere, you can't go off the fronts, rears, or center because it's all crossed over. I found the signal wires for the sub before the bose amp, but it wouldn't work with the Line output convertor, maybe digital? I also swapped the amp with a new JL 500/1 and the noise is still their. I feel that their is few things left to try.
Any comments or suggestions, are very welcome. I need a fix!! I called DEI tech support, gave them the scoop and they told me to contact Navone engineering, he told me to try their convertors cause their built better, and thought it was a level matching issue. The only other thing I can think of that the noise is present at the factory sub, barely audible, until it's amplified. I'm ready to give up and pull it all out. Sorry about the long post, and thanks in advance for any help!!!!!
steezs 
Copper - Posts: 172
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 04, 2005 at 3:44 PM / IP Logged  
Can any of you guys provide a diagram of how to test the ground with a DMM? I dont really understand where you put the meters probes and the wire form the battery negative confusing me? Or a link to show me how to do it .
the duce
dancivicman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2005
Location: Australia
Posted: November 08, 2005 at 8:42 AM / IP Logged  
Hi im new to the 12 volt forum, i think its because u have run your rca plugs to the wrong side of the car because some cars have power cables on one side and the rippling of the electrical wave induces a voltage into ur rca line and u hear the noise through ur stereo id try run ur rca's on the other side of ur car
dancivicman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2005
Location: Australia
Posted: November 08, 2005 at 8:44 AM / IP Logged  

sorry i posted a comment to somebody in august because after i joined the dates changed ignore what i just said

total_overkill 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: January 02, 2006 at 7:56 AM / IP Logged  
I originally started by taking the puny factory ground out and Upgraded the wire to 4 gauge. I also took 4 gage at time. (being upgraded to 1 gauge) and ringed the end, attached it to the engine block, then attached it again to chasis by battery, attached to chasis again just before firewall, attached to chasis again divers side floor in 2 places, attached again to chasis in back seat door floor area. All attachment points were soldered and dialelectric grease added, then gone over again with liquid electrical tape. This goes to a 2nd battery as an end point. Also gives me a good ground on almost any part of the car by attaching  a ground wire to one of my grounding spots.
40 grit has saved my life sometimes =[
dstang24 
Copper - Posts: 98
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 06, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2006 at 8:32 PM / IP Logged  

Poormanq45 wrote:
I just don't think the frame of a vehicle conducts electricity well enough.
I ran 2 6 guage wires to the back of my car, one on each side. Whereever I need to ground something, I run a short span of wire from the part to be grounded to the closest 4 guage ground wire. This insures a complete ground.
Also, with my method, you don't have to worry about your conection to the frame corroding.

The frame and body of the vehicle conduct very well.  There is much more conductive metal between the frame and the negative terminal of the battery than there is through a 4 guage wire ran from the rear of the vehicle.  This is what I was taught at Mobile Dynamics.

Sorry if this has already been addressed, I've only read the first 4 pages of this thread.

forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,353
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 10, 2006 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged  
Again, "There is much more conductive metal between the frame and the negative terminal of the battery". A good ground is not about the amount of the conductive metal between the frame and the negative terminal of the battery, it is about the resistance through it. If the resistance is low enough, have at er, go to town.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
dstang24 
Copper - Posts: 98
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 06, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2006 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged  
let me clarify... More conductive material usually means less resistance (more paths like a fire hose vs. garden hose).  So I agree fully.  I forgot half of my explanation.
Page of 24

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Monday, June 30, 2025 • Copyright © 1999-2025 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer