Remote turn on/speaker wires

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Mr.toadman

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: November 29, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged

ok i just checked everything the remote wire goininto the amp the + and - i got a read from all but it still wont turn on why

Mr.toadman

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: November 29, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 7:00 PM / IP Logged

ok the manual said tis because im not get enough juice 10.5 and 15.5.could i tap inti the light ill wire or anything else i get a over 10v read from?

Mr.toadman

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: November 29, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged

ok i just ran more power to the remote and it still doesnt work im guessing now that the amp went bad :(

daze

Copper - Posts: 112

Joined: December 02, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 8:28 PM / IP Logged

Ok I would like to clear a few things up. Remote wire can induce voltage on to RCA cables (most are decently sheilded but some people like to go cheap and by radio shack ones). The only time I would be worried about it, would be if I was doing a 4 channel amp. You will not hear engine noise thru a sub amp with the low pass filter on.

with that said,

In vehicles you wanna test for DC (direct current) so that would be Vdc. It sounds like you already cut off the factory harness, so you need wire colors or to test each wire. One wire will supply 12v DC all the time that is the wire that goes to the yellow wire on the radio harness (constant or memory), then there will be one that has 12v DC only when the car is on (make sure you really test this wire, it can be a dimmer wire so turn the headlight on and off while testing it, if its not a dimmer wire it will not change voltage at all) this wire will connect to the red wire on the radio harness, then you obviously have a ground, which I have even seen dimmers being negative (ground) as well, so just like the manual for the radio suggests, i would run my own ground wire as well (make sure paint is completly removed where it is and it is sinny to ensure a proper ground).

now for the remote, it can be your on the wrong volt scale cuz you labeled it Vac or you could have a improper ground on your meeter, which will give you an inacurate ground. But running it off an ignition source is not a bad idea, so tie it on the red wire from the radio harness to your toggle switch. That way you will be able to turn it off at any point and it will still turn off with the car.

If you cannot seem to figure out the proper wire colors then you can go to RS Strause, PEP Boys, autozone..... whatever and get whats called an add a circuit. Basically this a fuse with an extra fuse in it so you can plug it into the fuse box. in this case you would pull out the radio fuse inside the car and plug that in and run a wire to the red wire on the radio harness and keep the yellow where it is currently connected

daze

Copper - Posts: 112

Joined: December 02, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 8:30 PM / IP Logged

what were the reading on the + of the amp ?

Mr.toadman

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: November 29, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged

oh man i finally got it lol.i found the radio remote wire and just wired that into the amp.the original remote wire was only givin me 8v in which i needed 10.5 to 15.5.on this remote wire should i run a fuse into this line as well just for a amp/car protection?and should the fuse be in the wired in part before the toggle switch or in between the toggle and the amp?i havent wqired in the toggle yet but will in a few days.havent figured out how to make a mount for it yet.im going to use the ashtray spot.i was thinking taking a chucnk of 2x4 and cut it into shape.any ideas on that?or somekind of plastic mold to protect the leads on the baclk of the toggle switch.any suggestions.and thanks for the help daze

Mr.toadman

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: November 29, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 10:23 PM / IP Logged

the + of the amp was all good to i had a bad ground goin on the amp.fixed that and did the new wire all good now.well except for the mount idea.or i was thinkin just drill a hole in the side of the middle counsel but i was afaraid of hitting it.maybe if i got a push button but want a lighted one for show lol and to know theres power goin back there

daze

Copper - Posts: 112

Joined: December 02, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 10:25 PM / IP Logged

i would put the fuse before the toggle. You can find whats called abs and it is thin plastic that is easy to cut and bend with a blow drier or heat gun if you need to curve it. to protect the back of the switch, i would just get a peice of foam and cut a little gully in it smaller than the switch an push it on and make it fit the rest of the way so its pressure fitted

daze

Copper - Posts: 112

Joined: December 02, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 10:26 PM / IP Logged

well if you cant see or touch the back, DONT DRILL !

Mr.toadman

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: November 29, 2004

Posted: December 02, 2004 at 10:48 PM / IP Logged

well the switch that i bought is a duck bill one or a flipper typre .i suppose if i buy a rocker switch that lit up i wouldnt have to worry about breakin it as much.and whats the abs stuff ive never heard of that before.do you have a weblink to a picture of it?

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