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Boa DIY remote start


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DiscoKing 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 08, 2005 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged  
I found that the boa system was very sensitive to the distance for setup.  I was sitting in the car trying to program the thing 5 or 6 times.  After reading a couple of posts I had somebody stand back 10-15 feet while I turned the key to on.  Worked like a charm.  After is was programmed the range is fine.  I don't know why it was so picky for setup. 
swamprat323 
Gold - Posts: 1,335
Gold spacespace
Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: January 08, 2005 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged  
Tese BOA alarms, keyless, RS. They not already program form the factory.
colombianitoxp 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: July 13, 2003
Posted: January 09, 2005 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged  
No they are not pre programmed, but the best way to program it is to stand back fromt he car about 10 feet or so and then try it that shoudl work...kinda of a pain in the butt, but it works alrite....standing back should work... Good Luck
mainormoscoso 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2005 at 9:25 PM / IP Logged  
is te battery of the remote on this units change the battery and then try programing again, it worked for me
gfevans 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: January 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2005 at 10:23 AM / IP Logged  

I am having the same problem with the the remote and receiver (the BOA 165B) talking to each other.  I know I hooked up all leads properly and I too have a positive triggered parking light so I'll need a relay.  (Installing on a 2002 Saturn with no special passive cutoff or alarms). 

My main concern is that I have a few leads (H1/1 (-200mA Status Output), H1/2 (Tach), H1/6 (- Remote Start Activation Input), H1/7 (Factory Alarm) and the F (Output to IGN2 Circuit)) that are not needed and not hooked to anything, sitting open circuit currently.  Do all of these lead need to be tied high, low, etc to enable this module to function properly or can they be left open?  Also for at least the programming of the module portion, do I need to have the parking light flash output (H1/8) tied to a load or can I just monitor it with a multimeter?

thanks.

gfe
colombianitoxp 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: July 13, 2003
Posted: January 10, 2005 at 10:49 AM / IP Logged  
You dont need to have those hooked up in order for the starter to work, the H1/1 is left untouched, and the H1/7 is left free if yo dont have a factory alarm and the IGN2 is left untoched if you dont have a second ignition wire, but the Tach should be connected if your vehicles voltage doesnt change significantly while the car is running, if the starter is not able to detect the fluctiations in the voltage then you should detenitly hook up the TACH wire so that it knows when the car is running and so that it will not try to crank the engine again if the vehicle has already started...and if im not mistaken on the 165B the parkin light is a negative trigger so you could check with a DMM by connecting it to a +12 volts and the black test lead to the parking wire out of the main unit....OR you could use the tester inlcuded with the system....check the battery in the remote with the DMM and try not to program it from too close,also if the main unit is attached to metal it hurts the range ....Good Luck ...hope i was of some help
gfevans 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: January 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2005 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks, my car has a significant voltage swing on the output so I should be fine but I may hook it up anyway to have double the security.

I just spoke with the BOA people and they noted that if I just want to test the module and not worry about configuring the remote yet, you just need to take the H1/6 (WHITE/ Blue Remote Start Activation Input) lead and tap it to ground twice and it will trigger the remote start system.  Just a piece of advice to share with all who want to confirm their wiring is correct and the module functions properly at least.

gfe
biggy169 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: June 09, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2005 at 12:07 AM / IP Logged  
I accidentally threw away the manual to this thing (Boa 165b) remote start. I was thinking that the CD would have the nec. Info. Yeah right. No wI have my car all spliced, and don't know which wire to connect where on the brain. (Specifically the six wires on the top that just slide over the connectors.) I have been on hold with directed over 3 hours on diff. occasions and noone has answered the phone yet. The website is a joke... and I'm gettin' spent. Help if U can.
colombianitoxp 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: July 13, 2003
Posted: January 12, 2005 at 2:23 PM / IP Logged  
No doubt man, but you should definetly try to keep them manuals at least until you install it...anywho..
orange (+) 30A output to accesory circuit
REd    (+) 30A high current to 12 V
Violet (+) output to starter circuit
Pink   (+) output to ignition circuit
Red    (+)
Pink/White (+) output to igntion
Blue (-) 200mA status output
Violet/White tach
Brown (+) Brake Switch
Gray (-) Hood Pin
Black   Ground
WHITE/ Blue(-) remote start activation input
Light GREEN/ Black factory alarm disarm
White (-) parking light flash output
hope it helps.,.... ColombianitoXP
      
pOMP 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 13, 2005 at 11:01 AM / IP Logged  
I got this Boa system from Best Buy too. Had it installed this week at an installation place. Yea, the range stinks and half the time when we try to remote start it, the lights flash and the doors unlock with no start. Any ideas here?
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