home speakers in car

the home versions of the morel and focal line, speaking of the stuff in Parts Express, is all 8 ohm. I was wondering how some of these speakers will do in the auto environment, I have 4x100 for the tweets and the woofers, so I assume if I bridge the channels, and don't biamp, I could still keep 100 watts going to each speaker. Is this correct.Could I double the speakers, IE buy two midbass driver for each door and then run them parallel? any disadvantage to this? Does anyone have any thoughts on this matter. ps I'd be making f/g enclosures for the midbass drivers, so they would not be at all exposed to the elements.lastly, does anyone have any recommendations from those two lines (morel and focal), either a whole three way setup, or just a real nice midbass driver to augment my polk momos (5.25)thanks

Doubling the Ohm load does not exactly reduce the output by 1/2. I would estimate between 50 and 80w at 8 Ohms. The only thing to watch out for when putting home stereo equipment in a car is the elements. In a house, humidity is kept to a minimum by running the AC. The AC also keeps the house at a constant temperature. In a car, the AC will not be running all the time. Depending on where you live, there might be high humidity, which can damage cones, surrounds, and almost everything else. Also, when you let your car sit in during the day, in the sun, temperatures can be in excess of 140 Degrees. Most home stereo equipment is not designed to handle those kinds of extremes.

You can do it, but WHY? Are you looking for the brand name? Are you trying to save money? As the others mentioned, it can be done. Impedance is impedance. Taking into consideration the temperate, humitidy, etc. was also correct. One thing that was missed so far was the design. Home theater speakers are designed for the home. Acoustic parameters need to be configured for the speaker to fill a room with sound, not a vehicle -- small by comparison. Acoustically, I think it is a bad idea, you will suffer degraded quality of sound. Just my thoughts. But you can do it, you can do anything! (sarcasm aside, of course) DXAV

If you're doing this for SQ I would discourage bridging the channels.  Bridging generally increases distortion.New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

all I want to do is add some midbass at not too much additional cost. The way I see it is thus. I currently have a set of polk MOMO's, I like them a lot. they are excellent, but, I'm something of a bass head, Iplay bass guitar, and the midbass simply is not up to the level that the mids, highs, and sub bass are at. I tried to biamp the comps (they currently are biamped, and while the clarity and headroom did increase for the tweeter (crossed at 2750Hz) the midbass did not really improve, at least not enough. So I'd like to get a dedicated midbass driver (or two if the consensus is that two in parallel running 100watts at 4 ohms is a better idea than 1 at 50 watts into 8 ohms) to fill in the missing frequencys. The amp pushes 4 x 100, I would send 100 to each comp set and the rest to the midbass. there will be no bridging

Bridging ONLY causes additional distortions because the impedance drops. Any amplifier designed with good zero-cross distortion values will not have any additional distortions added to the signal. If the amp is rated 4 ohms per channel, and he bridges it to an 8 ohm load, there SHOULD be exceptionally little, if any additional artifacts added to the signal. This is perfectly acceptable to do. As far as using high end home drivers in the car, I have done it for most of my own stereo systems, because there has, historically speaking, been very little to offer GOOD hi-fidelity in the car. I was FORCED to home gear. I have used Morel, Scan-Speak, Seas, Infinity, Bohlender-Graebner, Dynaudio, Peerless, and many other home speakers in the car - always with great to OUTSTANDING results. A speaker is a speaker is a speaker - whether you put it in a car or a house. PARAMETERS have plenty to do with it, but are you telling me that because a driver has an 8 ohm impedance (and let's just say for the sake of argument all of the other paameters are IDENTICAL), and a manufacturer designed it for a home speaker system, it will excite the air mass in my car differently than it will in the house? That sounds wrong to me. A speaker does nothing more than excite air in a pressure/rarifaction scheme, and where it is will have nothing to do with that. Acoustically, there is NO DIFFERENCE. Keep the bi-amp configuration. It is true you will suffer a small power loss, but the control and lowered distortion will outweigh this power loss by a pretty good margin. My system is right now tri-amped to the front doors, with a Morel 6, a Vifa 3, and an infinity eMIT tweeter. Everything runs at 8 ohms, and believe me, I am missing NOTHING.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."