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Appropriate situation for a 5 ch amp?


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quick4321 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 29, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2004 at 4:21 AM / IP Logged  

Im building a low budget stereo for my commuter car. Im planing on running some fronts and possibly a pair of rear speakers too. I was going to run a 1000w amp and 2 12" but I was told that the 65 amp alturnator probally wont handle my MTX 1000w amp. SO, my questions is should i run a 5 channel amp. Hifonics makes an amp that puts out

  • 2 ohms power output: 110 watts x 4 channels + 300 watts x 1 channel
  • 4 ohms power output: 55 watts x 4 channels + 200 watts x 1 channel
  • If I run 2 pairs of coaxals and a single IDQ 10" will this power the set up fine? How can i get the amp to run at 2 ohm to get the most of it? Im looking into this amp because I dont think the car will run a nice 4x100w and 1000wx1 amp with out buying a new alt and battery. Its a small chevy prizm and the amp sells for 200.00 on ebay. Whats everyones opinions? I really think that single 10 will put out enough sound to make me happy (it wont pound like the 4 12"s in my stang but its just a prizm after all LOL). OK please shoot me your opinions on the amp and setup.

    In the end it would be:

    alpine 9830 with sirius add-on

    pair of really nice oldschool MB quart seperates in the front and what ever I can come up with as rear fill. Then Ill probally build a small sealed box for my IDQ 10". I also have a few 12's lying around but I dont know if that amp will be strong enough for a 12"????? ( I have mtx 8000 12" svc, orion 500w 12" DVC also). I have to keep telling myself this is supposed to be a basic install so I don't get carried away and buy better parts than I really need.

    Clarion DRX9255
    Dynaudio MD130, MD140/2, MD160, MD170
    (4) ID V3. 12" Dual 2ohm IB setup
    EPX2 Symmetry w/ zapco line drivers
    Monior 1 amps (2)MK2.120, MK4.70
    Hifonics Colosus VII 1600x1
    rt2party 
    Member - Posts: 41
    Member spacespace
    Joined: December 14, 2004
    Location: United States
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 7:35 AM / IP Logged  

    sounds ok to me. its not going to be amazing but it will work fine for a comuter car. save the MBQ's for the SQ car. lets see pics of the install wen its done.

    ~Ryan

    quick4321 
    Copper - Posts: 115
    Copper spacespace
    Joined: July 29, 2004
    Location: United States
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 7:41 AM / IP Logged  

    So which of my subs should i run with that amp?

    Clarion DRX9255
    Dynaudio MD130, MD140/2, MD160, MD170
    (4) ID V3. 12" Dual 2ohm IB setup
    EPX2 Symmetry w/ zapco line drivers
    Monior 1 amps (2)MK2.120, MK4.70
    Hifonics Colosus VII 1600x1
    97Avalonxls 
    Copper - Posts: 115
    Copper spacespace
    Joined: November 17, 2004
    Location: United States
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 10:48 AM / IP Logged  
    if you can run that amp in tri mode, than I would say either of the dvc subs simply because you'll be able to coax more juice and that will compensate for less subs. If you were determined to use the idq, than I'd suggest a ported box just to pick up the efficency of the enclosure,
    kfr01 
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    Joined: April 30, 2003
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 2:03 PM / IP Logged  
    Run the single IDQ 10"...
    200w on a single 10" will be more than enough.
    You seem slightly confused about power and output. You do realize that you'll get ~85-90db with ONE WATT, right? You realize that the max SPL difference between 200w and 300w is less than 2db, right? You realize that you won't tell a squat worth of difference 99.9% of the time, right? You realize that even then you'd barely be able to hear it, right? Also, most 12" subs are EASIER to drive than their 10" counterparts. You also realize that the spl difference between 2 subs and 1 sub is only 3db too, right? 3db is not large.
    The car audio world is largely obsessed with MORE DRIVERS and MORE POWER. For daily driving I feel this obsession is frankly stupid. When a single subwoofer + amped mids and highs has the capability to cause hearing damage, what's the point in having more?
    Anyway. I would go with it. I think trying to get 2-ohms to "get the most out of it" would be silly.
    New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
    jeffchilcott 
    Platinum - Posts: 2,483
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    Joined: April 11, 2002
    Location: United States
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 2:24 PM / IP Logged  
    I think this will do for you perfectly,    You still might want to check the amp draw on the amp, I have a little festiva that I wanted something small in till I put the wall in and a 200 amp alternator.    But I was having alot of trouble finding aything under a 50 amp draw.       
    If you want to run the setup I would say scrap the rear speakers,   run the fronts bridged at 2 ohm.      should give you more then enough power to the MB quarts, then run one of the DVC subs on the single sub channel.   this will yield the 2 ohm load you are looking for.
    2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
    2007 USACI World Champion
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    kfr01 
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    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 2:29 PM / IP Logged  
    I would just buy a small 4-channel amp, bridge the rear channels to the subwoofer.
    Forget about rear fill in a small car like that... or run some rear fill off the deck power.
    I wouldn't bridge the mains. I just don't see any point.
    If this really is your commuter car, you aren't competing or trying to impress highschool girls, then I really don't see any need for anything more than 55w to components and 200w to the subwoofer... Unless you really like listening at above 110db for commuting. Which would be simply retarded. After about 25 minutes or so you'd be causing permanent hearing damage.
    New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
    dr. righteous 
    Member - Posts: 34
    Member spacespace
    Joined: November 04, 2004
    Location: United States
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  

    I am planning a system for my Jeep Grand Cherokee.  5 channels.  4x50W and the sub at 300W mono.  

    I planning on powering it all with a Hifonics  Zeus ZX8000

    4 6.5" Panasonic speakers will do mid/high, factory infinity tweets in the dash and a 10" JL 10w3v2 -D4

    at 2 ohms. 

    My Panasonic head unit has front, rear, and sub pre outs with 80/120 xover point and gain for the sub in the head unit.  Also the pre outs have a 5V level. 

    It should sound good. 

    Real High Fidelity........
    or forget it.
    stevdart 
    Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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    Location: Pennsylvania, United States
    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  

    ^^^????  Thanks for sharing that info, Dr., but how does it pertain to the thread question?

    I agree with kfr01 on using a four channel for your commuting.  Keep your components at 4 ohms where you will get the better quality sound, and bridge a 4 ohm load onto channels 3 and 4 for the sub bass.  Rear fill shouldn't be missed. In making it a sealed enclosure, use as much volume as you can allow for the sub to make it the most efficient and produce the lowest bass extension.

    uc10950 
    Member - Posts: 12
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    Posted: December 22, 2004 at 5:23 PM / IP Logged  
    dude, i used the set up you are refering to. it sounded just fine for my commute. i drive more than an hour each way , so i think i know what you want. let the hifonics push a set of 6.5 two ways in the front. bridge them on chn 1 & 2 then run youre 10 in a sealed box. youll be fine. my hifonics sounds great like that and no problems. if you want rear fill, run them off the deck.
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