Will I need a capacitor or a HO alternator?

I am looking at putting a Mephis Belle (1300wRMS) amp into my car with 2 '04 Kicker L5 12" subs(600wRMS) and powering my rockford interior speakers with 4/5 channels. I was wondering, what are the odds I'll need a capacitor or a HO alternator? Another 200-300 bucks is kinda hefty right now so I wanna see if I might be able to get by. I have a 98 Monte Carlo with like fully powered(windows/locks/sunroof). Anyone by chance got a good guess on my options?1998 Monte Carlo w/

Eclipse CD8454

2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C

2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369

1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel

2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

You'll get buy, but it will cost u. At minimum I would say get at least a 2.2Farad capacitor, 1300RMS is what? 2000-2600 peak? That will suck a battery and alternator system dry in a few short bass notes and then ur whole electrical system of the vehicle will be put understrain. First the headlights will dim, then the whole car will run funky and finally ur alternator will go along with the battery. I would suggest getting a second battery, an isolator, and a capacitor. The HO alternator isn't really nessisary unless u start pushing 2000 watts+ alot or ur stock alternator cant handle the load (IE failure). Good luck"Shiny chrome when used in conjunction with bikini models is particularly effective in inducing brain deficit disorder"

02 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Monster System on its way.

I would disagree with xtream here... I doubt you'll get by at all... I've had to beef up systems with as little as 800 watts RMS.. especially when your using better quality amps. If you expect any sort of life out of your battery or your alternator you will need to beef up your electrical system a bit... at the very least upgrade your battery->groud connection and your alternator->battery wire. Without something between the huge 150 - 175 amp pulls off your charging system (like a cap or 2nd battery) and your amps I'd imagine you will find your alternator in serious trouble in short order... Not only that, but keep in mind that an amp that sees a beefy 13 or 14 volts will put out significantly more power than one scraping along with dips into the 9 or 10 volt range. You need not spend 200-300 for a cap either. I'm using a $70 cap from PowerAcoustik works just fine from etronics.com. The technology behind capacitors is very simple and has been around for years. You needn't a Stinger or Soundstream cap to perform well.

Also depends if you want to run the system with the car on or off. If you just listen to the music while the car is running, then what Sedate said should work for a while. My 300ZX had about 800 watts in the stereo and the battery couldn't last (although I listened to it with the car off once in a while). After that, the charging system could never fully charge my bettery. I always had problems with my lights dimming, other electics running slower, etc. I guess a cap would work, but they just store power for use, where I had the problem of stuff not charging. I would recomend a HO alt over time (with in the year), but you should get by for now with a cap. Without, I give it 6 months or less.5.25" Components & 5x7 Coax Kappas w/Power Acoustik OV4-800

KAC 7252 powering 2 D3 8" Diamonds

KDC-MP728, KGC-4042A

Number one - No, you won't get by. ALWAYS start with your alternator. A cap will not fix a low voltage or low current (and ESPECIALLY NOT BOTH) situation. A Memphis Belle (a class AB amplifier will run at best 50% efficient) running at RMS output, will EASILY suck 150 to 180 amp gulps from your electrical system - and yours ain't got it. Number two - Good suggestions with the battery cables. You will ESPECIALLY have to do this if you upgrade your alternator as suggested in the first point. A cap will not, I repeat NOT, in and of itself pull ANY more current from the system than it can put out, and as a device alone, once it is charged it WILL NEVER pull ANY current from the electrical system, and a second battery will NOT pull more than two or three amps once it is fully charged. It WILL pull more current than that in a high drain situation, but will actually not NEED that much in the overall scheme of things. It is an inherently self charging device, and actually requires MINIMAL current from the alternator to keep it charged. The best suggestion here is replace your front battery, and add an IDENTICAL second battery to the trunk, WITHOUT any isolators or relays. Wait on the cap, if you are going to wait on ANY of the items suggested. And finally - Number three - Whether you are running the system with the car on or off, you will want to follow the above suggestions. It does not matter if you are running or not running the engine. Your battery went dead the first time, J-N, and "and the battery couldn't last (although I listened to it with the car off once in a while). After that, the charging system could never fully charge my bettery" because the battery was discharged below the safe level. It had NOTHING to do with your charging system. When a lead-acid battery is discarged below around 10.5 volts, it will NEVER be as good as it was. Your lights dimming were an indication that your alternator was not strong enough from the beginning. A battery is NOT here to run your accessories, it is there to start the car. Once the car is running, ALL of your electrical power should come from the alternator.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

You can look for one at www.autoelectricpart.com.  Also ohio generator. Prices will range from around $175 to $400.'85 Toy

Here is a link to the alternator on Alterstart's webpage. Good company, and you'll notice this alternator is also available in a 180 amp version. Of course, IT won't be 97 bux, but call them and find out how much it'll be.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."