DVC vs. SVC

So stick with the SVC and the 2 Ohm load for a longer lasting system pretty much? I just thought the higher end amps like Diamond Audio were built for the 1Ohm stability with the 4 Ohm DVC setup. Like how much of a span are we talking about for the life of the amp? The whole time I was looking the sales guy was telling me thats what I should get. 4 Ohm DVC. I was also looking at the new RF T1's as an option, but think I should stick with what I know is proven to be a quality good sounding subs that will last when treated right.

Well what I mean is that if you have a choice of how to run the amp, either at say 4 ohms or 2 ohms, I'd choose 4 ohms. 

That's not to say that I would go with 4 ohms and sacrifice the power I would have gotten at 2 ohms.  I would just get an amp to start with that would deliver that same power at a 4 ohm load instead of a smaller amp that can only deliver that power when you drop it down to 2 ohms, and only half that power at 4 ohms.

I don't like pushing my equipment to the very brink of what it can take before giving out.  It's like you don't drive your car with the tach always redlining.  Yeah the tach says the engine can run up to 7000 RPM's, but you drive at about 2-3000 most of the time.  If you drove it with the engine wound up like a rubber band then it would give out in no time with worn out bearings and maybe throw a rod too.  Instead, we drive more easily and the engine(with luck) will get you to 100,000 miles before the first tuneup is due.

That's how I feel about my amps and subs.  I know they've got more to give, but I don't ask for it cause I chose an amp that would do what I wanted without having to try so hard. 

I once heard someone say electronic devices hate heat.  If you run the amp at a 2 or 1 ohm load just because you can do it, then you have more heat than you would at a 4 ohm load.  Excessive heat will wear it out faster.

However, if you are on a tight budget and cannot afford to get the larger amps that will perform at 4 ohms, then you can go with the smaller sized ones and wire to drop it down to 2 or 1 ohm to get the power that you want(so long as the amp says it can do it).  And it might even last for years, but how long for sure, we don't know.  Could even depend on where you live.  If you live where it's always hot and the average temperature is in the 80-90 range, then the amp back there in your trunk is going to get a lot hotter and stay that way longer than it would if you lived up north and the temperature was in the 70's and for only about 6-8 months of the year.  Can also depend on how long at a time you play it.  If your like me and it can run for as much as 30 minutes nonstop EVERY TIME IT'S ON AND EVERY SINGLE DAY, and anywhere from 1-4 hours at a time at least twice a month on road trips, then I like having the knowledge that my amp isn't back there "takin' one for the team" so to speak.  It has no trouble at all doing what I ask, no matter what the outside temperature, or no matter how long it's on, and I know it will keep on doing that cause it's been doing it for 3 years straight.  I'd say I put about 40 hours a month on my stereo.  It gets played on average for more than an hour a day, cumulatively that is.

That may not even be a lot of time for some people.  I just feel that I listen to it more than average and I want it to last a little longer than average.  Many only listen to the stereo on their way to and from work.  15-20 minutes one way.  Less than an hour a day.  There have been times that I have played with my stereo for a solid hour AFTER I got home from work, not even counting the drive home.  Or I get in and go driving around for 2 hours just listening and driving.  I do this a lot.  I can cycle through 2-3 whole CD's in that time.  If my amp was back there running red hot, I feel it would have given out long before now.

Sorry I ran on so long.  I wanted to be understood but not confuse you into thinking that it will not last long if you wire for lower ohm loads.  Just that it can possibly last "longer" if it's wired concervingly.  It's just something to think about.

Audeogod, I appreciate the lengthy explanation. I myself do not use my car for daily commutes. I have a van with all my equipment that is used. Just to give you an idea of how little I truly drive and use my car, its a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant that I bought new and I have a whopping 18k miles on it. This is the 3rd system in it since I got it. I have had nothing but problems with each one and am really trying to do the best setup for the money. Like I said, I already have the DA 1200.1 and don't want to go through the hassle of buying a different or another one. If this system turns out to actually sound good, shoot I may stick with it for a couple years which would be less use than most put on in a year or so.

I don't think I could have made a sound decision without all the help on this site. It has all been much appreciated and I'm glad I could post a topic that took off like it did and let some of the pro's flex their brain muscles. I couldn't be more stoked right now about the whole deal and can't wait til it comes together. So many people helped and its nice to see everyone chip in with their opinions and knowledge. thanks again.

Ok, if you already have the amp(didn't know that) then you can wire it to go as low as it says it will handle(1 or 2 ohms) and it will be fine.  Like I said, it might have even lasted for years being played the way I play it.  I just personally don't like to do it cause I use mine a lot!  But since you hardly use it(18K miles is low for all that time), then it should never get overly hot.